suubyduuby

Currently have been using Shell Helix Ultra 10W/40 semi-synth, but considering moving to Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40 full synth. Car is a BP JDM 2.0GT LGT. Any thoughts on this?

Have a look at this thread: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,28484.0.html

Can second that - bought a USB one on TM. Works a treat.

Do a quick search and think there is a post somewhere here with the factory service manual PDF. Have a look - if you can\'t find it, I have it in PDF format. Its a 100MB download but great to have on hand - has all the torque settings too when you torquing stuff back up.

First ran 5W-30 when under 100k, then changed to Shell Helix 10W-40. Now running 15W-40 Motul - car has 195k on the clock now, and still running sweet.

Thanks mate, really useful information. So just to confirm, all 2009 WRXs onwards have all the goodies? Just noticed too that model is still referred to as 2.0GT from 2008+ onwards in JDM?

Just came across this article in NZ Performance Car: "With this new Impreza range, the WRX model is no more in Japan. It\'s the S-GT now, with the WRX badge exclusively reserved to sit alongside the STI one when that model comes out in the New Year" Source: http://www.performancecar.co.nz/articles/2008-subaru-impreza-wrx-test-drive-132 BTW...what a fantastic site for JDM specs. Best I\'ve ever seen!

Looking to replace the BH5 GT with a 2007-2008 WRX Hatch, however can\'t seem to find a good resource on the spec differences between NZ-new and JDM models. Bottom line so far: JDM is 2.0L twin-scroll turbo vs. 2.5L turbo for NZ-New. JDM WRX is labelled as a "S-GT" rather than plain old WRX Anything else? Any pro\'s cons of a JDM vs NZ-New? Anybody got a handle on the key differences too between 2007-2008 versions? See: http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/cargrouptests/211027/subaru_impreza_sgt.html

Been following this topic for a while as very interesting...also work in the field of elec engineering, so naturally interested! Any ideas on what kind of application you are going to use this for? - Alarm - OBDII logger - Software 'dash' Often toyed around with the idea of creating some nice 'digital' gauges running in a single/double DIN mounted LCD display, feeding from data from the OBDII port. However with work and many other things, always ended up getting shelved.

Hi mate. Have you tried any of these suppliers? http://www.rsnewzealand.com http://element14.com/nz

You could probably just wire up some new plugs if you were really keen to reinstall the old system. Obviously you'd need to get the right configuration and current rating for audio, but may be worth it if you want to reinstall.

Part 2. Rear speaker installation. Well after enjoying my new fronts so much, the rears sounded pretty worse for wear so have picked up a new set to replace them with. See below for rear install guide and installation photos. MAKING UP THE FACTORY PLUG ADAPTOR Rear adaptor is a little different to the front. Basically fits right over the spades on the stock speakers, so you'll need to make a little adaptor that has spade terminals on one end and spade plugs on the either. Cut a 20cm length of speaker cable and trim back approx 1cm on each wire. Seprate the plastic-bonded wires approx 4cm at each end. - Cut 1cm lengths of suitably sized heatshrink and place on ends of each wire. - Solder spade plugs on one end (to fit speaker). Heatshrink. - Solder spade terminals on the other end (to fit factory harness). Heatshrink. Same as before, I'm using Pioneers for the rear so, the smaller spade pole is NEGATIVE (-ve) and the larger pole POSITIVE (+ve). Check out the cable guage difference between these and factory wiring ;D INSTALLATION Same as front speaker installation. Check wire color codes in above chart. NB. When installing, the R/R wiring scheme matched the table but the R/L did not. For some reason, my wagon has the same wiring colours for BOTH sides on the rear. Just used the same wiring scheme as the R/R for the left speaker, and all OK. But just double-check this for your installation.

** Updated 22 April 2012 ** Part 1. General installation guide and front speaker installation. Part 2. Rear speaker installation. Wanted to put together a walkthrough on installing speakers in a BE/BH Legacy. Hopefully for anyone who does this in the future, this guide may prove helpful. There's also a bunch of links, wiring diagrams and photos below. So follow along, have fun and before you know it you'll have your new shiny speakers installed in no time. ;D This guide is provided for front speaker installation, but same principles apply to the rears. Guide shows installation of 6.75" speakers, but same principles apply to smaller speaker sizes...however, you'll need to get a suitably smaller mounting. WHAT YOU'll NEED: - New speakers (6.75") and included accessories - Pack of self-drilling metal screws (x6) - Speaker mounts (Part #902 from Ed's Auto for the 6.75" speakers) - Heavy-guage speaker wire - Crimp plugs/spade connectors (x4) - Various sizes of heat shrink tubing TOOLS REQUIRED: - Impact driver (or cordless drill if I/D unavailable) - Philips screwdriver - Needle-nose plyers - Side cutters - Soldering iron - Hot air gun (for applying heatshrink) I purchased the #902 Subaru speaker spaces from Ed's Auto Services. You can also pick these up from Hyper in Mt Wellington who are a retailer. They sell for $24.99 but saves fabricating your own out of MDF. However as ScoobyDoo mentioned in a post, these don't fit the mounting pattern of the BE/BH Legacy's. But..all is not lost, here's how you fit them. INSTALLING THE SPEAKER MOUNTS/SPACERS First off you'll need to remove the door trim and the factory speakers. On my BH, the speakers are integrated into the factory retainers and the whole speaker/spacer is one piece plastic. Just unscrew the three mounting screws and unplug. Keep the old speaker handy as we need to hack the old plug off and build it into a factory wiring harness adaptor. Remove the factory screw plugs where the old screws go as we need the speaker to be fitting nice and flush with the door. Grab the 902 spacer and position just slightly off centre from the original mounting holes. You'll need to keep it as close to the original position for the trim to fit nicely. On my first attempt I angled it too much and trim wouldn't fit back properly when I reassembled the door. Incorrect and correct mounting positions shown below. Once mounted correctly, use the self-drilling metal screws and secure them using the impact driver. Fire the first one in first, check the clearances with the trim and them finish off the other too. MAKING UP THE FACTORY PLUG ADAPTOR Rip off the old factory plug from the integrated Clarion speaker/mount, remove the angled tabs and leave a nice soldering surface on the back of each pin to secure a wire on to. Grab some fine sandpaper and give the metal surface a bit of grind to remove any oxidation. Makes soldering way easier and ensures you get a good bond with the metal. First off, the factory wiring diagram: Source: http://ae64.com/Legacy-pinout.htm - Cut a 40cm length of speaker cable and trim back approx 1cm on each wire. Seprate the plastic-bonded wires approx 4cm at each end. - Cut 1cm lengths of suitably sized heatshrink and place on ends of each wire. - Solder on the factory plug and heatshrink. I also used a larger piece of heatshrink to seal the assembly. - Solder on spade/crimp plugs. Apply heatshrink. On the speakers I was installing (Pioneer DS-1720C), the smaller spade pole is NEGATIVE (-ve) and the larger pole POSITIVE (+ve). On the factory harness for the Front-Right speaker: * NEGATIVE: Black/White * POSTIVE: Red/Yellow I subsequently match the negative terminal to the speaker wire with the white strip (for easy identifcation) and soldered the smaller spade terminal to the other end. And so on for the other terminal...here it is connected to the factory harness and installed in the door: Following a quick test, here is the final result installed in the door. After that, all that's left to do is reinstall the factory trim and you're away. Repeat instructions for the other door and match the wiring colours using the chart above. Feedback welcome below. Hopefully this proves useful to your install. All the best! Any comments or questions please post below. Shout out also to scoobydoo and spark_38 who provided valuable installation advice. Thanks guys. Useful Links and Website: - http://ae64.com/ - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402

Bought a set of the 902s today and your right...the mounting is different than on the BE/BH, but only slightly. However, now that I have these I'm just going to drill a couple of new mounting holes at the bottom. Top hole fits nicely on the top mount, but bottom two are off by around 5mm each side. Figure that's probably the easiest route next to fabricating a custom spacer out of MDF. However, if all else fails that's what I'm gonna do. ;D Found some good info here too: http://www.subaruaudio.net/subaru-speaker-spacers/ http://www.subaruaudio.net/my-wrx/audio-system/

Currently just replacing the factory front speakers as rattling and cracking pretty badly. The factory retainers in my legacy are all one piece with the factory Clarion speakers. So far, have Dremel'd out the old speakers from the retainers and working on a way to mount some new 6.5" components in the factory retainers. Are there any off-the-shelf mounts that can be used, or is modding the factory retainers the only way to go if you want to keep them? Figured would be easy to cut up some MDF to size and mount, but want to keep the factory retainers as they are angled up to project the sound better. Doing one side first, and once I've got it all sorted will do the other side and post up some photos. May be useful for someone down the line...

Few years back I built a home-built RFID car alarm using passive tags. Had the reader positioned underneath the front window in the corner - worked a treat. Was fun breaking into the car to test it. ;D

Well, all installed now. BUT...factory trim doesn't fit nicely when headdeck is in place. Width of the deck is just slightly too wide for the factory pop-in/out trim to fit back in. I can get it in place, but not a nice fit as tends to bow slightly to fit. Thinking of taking a dremel and cutting some small inserts so will pop over the headdeck nicely. This is with a Sony headdeck - anyone else run into this trouble?

Peg you are right on. A diversity antenna adaptor ("Nissan" type) was the one. Should of checked before I bought the square BL/BP variant lol. Have a spare one which I'm going to flick onto Trademe.

Currently looking at replacing the factory (non-MacIntosh) headdeck in the Leggy with an aftermarket unit. Last time I pulled it out to fit a band expander, I remember the antenna plug was non-standard and had a hard time finding an expander to fit. What exactly is the factory antenna plug type? From memory, it was a square-looking connector - definately not going to fit in the std round hole! ;D Is there a standard plug on the harness tucked back into the dash? Or alternatively - where can you source an adaptor? Have had a look in a few stores, and they only have the std-Euro and vice versa types. Can always chop and solder a new std RF connector on, but would prefer to leave on so can refit the factory stereo if I ever sell the car. Any ideas?

Yep. Flywheel all machined.

Thanks Ichi Ban, makes good sense. Normally round town take off smoothly with minimal revs, but doing this with the new clutch shudders quite a bit. Easing out with revs around 1.5-2k feels a bit smoother. OK to keep doing this while bedding in? (Isn't quite as smooth as before, but seems to avoid shuddering as much).

The old factory clutch did shudder a fair bit when cold, but believe this was quite a common occurrence. Feel of the new clutch is great, just keen to know how I can best bed it in over the next week. Obviously you want to avoid hard launches (which I don't make a habit of anyway)...but what's the best way to drive it while's she's bedding in?

Just got a new HD clutch (factory replacement) in my '99 BH5 wagon. Wow - compared to the old one (which was slipping), sure bites like nothing on earth. However, she shudders a fair bit when taking off in 1st/reverse. Slightly higher rev's ease the takeoff, but still feel's pretty on/off and tends to bite fairly aggressively. Have been recommended to give a good week to bed in - but just wondering what I can do to ease it in? Apart from taking off from a standstill, feels pretty mint and responsive. Just shudders a fair bit when taking off. Would be interested in anyone comments who's put in/running something similiar. Any advice for getting things a bit more smoother would be keen to hear. :

Just wondering if anyone have any suggestions on the best place to get this sorted in Auckland? 5spd in my 99 BH5 has started to go a bit on the sloppy side and I wouldn't mind doing it myself, but don't have access to a hoist to get in underneath and free the linkage. (Had a peek in the service manual and see you need to take off centre exhaust to get to?) What's the best way to do this - with genuine parts? Any suggestions on most 'cost-effective' place to get this done at?

So they're a dual-axis accelerometer? Guess as part of the ABS system its looking for sudden changes in acceleration and data-logging these stats ie. prior to a crash. Pity Subaru have never incorporated G-meters like the R34 and new Skyline GTRs!