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@Joker Yes absolute legend, I think the BF has taken a back seat as he's been building/driving his Beams Starlet. I wish I'd seen his EJ starlet

@boon @Joker yep drift car things, if you redrill (and reamed to correct taper) the track rod pick up point about 20mm-ish inwards towards the hub you can pick up a noticeable amount of steering lock, nothing too crazy but definitely helpful when sideways. I assumed so, they help on the track but I still have some spare untouched knuckles for the road. That BF is owned by a guy called Wes, he has FabicationWorx in Tuakau, he's using FC rx7 front knuckles, which pick up even more lock than redrilled subaru knuckles, he has even made his own nissan rear end conversion kit (diff and hub carriers). The wagon isn't currently legal, I think its just waiting until he has the time to get it done. He actually welded my cage for me, really great guy. I have spoken to him about this briefly before, he was very helpful, I just haven't had a chance to catch up with him properly recently (life, work, university work, lockdown etc). Like I said, I'm just after any little bits of advice anyone out their may have. Just so I have a better idea of what I need to ask about before I get on the blower to a certifier.

More to finish this thread off and to help those in future if you had negative fuel trims at idle like me. So throughout all my testing I always had two MAF's which were known to be good and clean as were placed on other legacies and read fine after many kms of driving. What finally seemed to have swung my fuel trims to the zero or close about on the stock rom was a combination of things. One day I replaced the spark plugs, air filter and gave the MAF cleaner an extremely good clean for 10 mins. Since then the fuel trims seem to behave. The air filter in it seemed to be some repco brand so put in an OEM subaru one. Hoping is stays like this, makes it easier for the tune process.