logan25

Running on 100 now, reset the ECU and done a few short drives to get the IAM to move. Heres hoping it stays this way, time will tell

ADM and JDM reading should be the same process. I use a cheap VAGCOM Ftdi cable which is just a cheap version of tactrix, but for logging only. I also used tactrix cable in the past and it works fine. Use rom raider software, make sure you download both ECU definition files, and also Logger definition files, and specify them in Romraider. Open the logger section, and then select learning view, after 5 or so seconds should pop up a new window with all the data. No need to bridge any pins, straight plug in and read data via romraider

You were correct, I did find a small split in the air duct prior to the throttle body. Used some glue and filler to get it air tight back up. Somewhat of an improvement in the air flow figures, thats after an ECU reset and 1 hour of mixed driving and idling. Still baffles me with the IAM,

Romraider, looking at 'learning view'. Yeah I agree. It runs absolutey fines, no issue what so ever, was more just somewhat alarmed to see the dropped IAM value. My old man was running 91 in an older outback EZ30, somehow that is still surviving upto the high 200,000 kms and still going. My one on the other hand will be getting far nicer treatment...

Hi all, After a stint overseas I am back in New Zealand and picked up a 2007 3.0R NZ New 6 speed wagon a few months back. Finally ordered a obd2 cable to look at its data, and found the LV data below. My main concern is the IAM value, also have the negative air flow values which I will try track down any leaks. Just seeing if this is someone normal for the EZ30 engine here using NZ fuel, I am currently using 95, may have to consider 100, what do others use here? I used 100 in my previous GT, which got the IAM upto 1.0, do these EZ30 need it as well? Or is that IAM value normal for an untuned EZ30? Thanks (Edit: I looked around on here for more on the IAM, I see others had issue with EZ30s had IAMs down to 0 and 0.5, maybe 0.6 is acceptable??)

Clean the throttle butterfly? I had an impreza which was auto but had a terrible idle as well, wanting to cut out when A/C ticked on, cleaned the butterfly and after new idle relearn much better.

I randomly get the same in winter. Seems when temp is approaching zero, all I can imagine is it saying caution icy roads or something like that. Never in warm temperatures.

$7,000 is quite high for a 6 speed with that amount of kms on it.

Having a go at re-doing the Nexus 7 install in the legacy. This time I have a better condition Nexus 7 2013 LTE model and using an FTDI chip based VAGCOM cable. Running the timurs rom, OTG cable, FI mode etc etc. When ignition off, I notice the OBD2 port is still powering the Cable (red LED on). From memory my old cable never used to have this issue. When switching off the ignition it would all power down the cable as well. Have I missed something here, or should I chuck a relay on the OBD2 port wires so the live battery wire is only active when ACC on so it doesn’t drain the battery too much ?

More to finish this thread off and to help those in future if you had negative fuel trims at idle like me. So throughout all my testing I always had two MAF's which were known to be good and clean as were placed on other legacies and read fine after many kms of driving. What finally seemed to have swung my fuel trims to the zero or close about on the stock rom was a combination of things. One day I replaced the spark plugs, air filter and gave the MAF cleaner an extremely good clean for 10 mins. Since then the fuel trims seem to behave. The air filter in it seemed to be some repco brand so put in an OEM subaru one. Hoping is stays like this, makes it easier for the tune process.

For anyone running the brembo's for the legacy (such as the stock ones on tbsti or s402 etc), is this the correct part number for the front for the Bendix Ultimates? DB1678-ULT Or is it DB1379 ULT

Correct, picture attached below.

So pulled the plugs and found the culprit. All the gaps were perfect, around 0.7mm ish. One plug had in fact a small hairline crack in it, which I can only assume happened during install, even though was very careful. Regardless I chucked an old plug in to test, and pulls like it used too. Ordered another and back on with the tune tomorrow once it arrives.

Might have to pull them and check. First time I have done plugs so will learn for next time. Romraider reports no misfire, but it feels like it.

Anyone got feedback for these plugs? I replaced the plugs yesterday with ILFR6B, which the NGK website and book said to use for the EJ20Y. Running now, get a nasty hesitation above 3,000rpm all through the power range on boost. I reverted back to stock tune, used my original coils etc and still does it, only thing that has changed is new plugs. Now I check the FSM and they say to use SILFR6A for the turbo model? Would this cause the nasty hesitation when on the boost? Originally the car was running LFR6AIX-P. Thoughts?