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Posts posted by madmike
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"Semi forged" LOL
Raydeo
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Check Cam and crank sensors..
Also check for water in electricals.. seeing as you pressure washed it.
basically you need to start at one end and go through step by step on every system the car uses. trying each time to start the car.
And..... If your engine has gotten into a "Flooded state" you will have real trouble getting it to start even if everything is correct. Subaru hate having wet plugs!!
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Other thing to check is that all your earth are correct and tight.
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yep... you borked it bro......
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get out and race the slut!!!!
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Just be aware.. if you have a possum link or older link ecu don't bother ringing him..
I rang him looking to get a "Tickle up tune" on the RS and he told me he " Doesnt bother with the old gear"
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been done a few times... From memory.. Tony,John,Luke....
All track cars
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Check your sparkies..
Replace them with known good sparkplugs
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drop you plug gap down.. higher boost and rpm can cause spark issues
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Hands up whos seen me run out of brakes........
Bog standard RS brakes standard rotors with normal street pads...
Ask drunkenmonkey if he saw fade.. Ask him if my RS had stop.....
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There is an RS Legacy around Puke way that from memory was in the $2.5k range.. Wof n Reg on hold..
Stripped out and had been used for trackdays..
body was a little rough but went well..
Ryan's RS
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Just go get a set of normal street whatever pads...
Honestly Don't bother wasting your money on pads just for one trackday then used on the street for the rest of their lives.
unless your instantly quick and have a lot of power you are not going to need more than you have now..
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RS getting a birthday? Curious on the Blouch dont see many this side of the world. Which one is it?
Haha.. yeah of sorts.
Its the flash new roller bearing Scoobieclinic SC38 Billet. But its built by Blouch for Scoobieclinic.
initial build quality looks fantastic. It's a pretty unit.
http://cdn3.volusion.com/dtepk.qqepe/v/vspfiles/photos/SUB-20G-XT-R-2.jpg?1418722922
lets see how it boosts compared to the TD05
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Starting fitting new turbo and putting it back together..
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How long has it been in?
There is a bedding in period for clutches just the same as there is for brakes.
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if it was mine i would have run the top plate way down the rad to nearly half the height of the ic . as you can only get an airflow = to half the size of the ic through the ic . where as the virgin air from the grill over the top of the ic could have cooled half of the radiator as opposed to the 1/4 it goes to now
Lol.......
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Go to suspension tech... Chris knows his shit
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This years AGM will be held as advertised on 3rd May at 4pm via video conference.
If you wish to participate please post below ( or PM if you prefer ) your email address so we can send you and invite with a link.
Remember that only paid members get to have votes counted.
But come have some input into how you would like the club to progress..
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Who's Online 1 Member, 1 Anonymous, 71 Guests (See full list)
Forged pistons coding
in Engine Related
Posted
basically...
Casting is where an alloy is heated to a liquid stage and poured into a mould where it cools and is then removed from the casting mould then machined. This is by far the cheapest process.
Forging is where an alloy solid billet is heated and then two dies are squeezed together at enormous pressure to form the initial shape which is then machined for final result
Semi forging is..
A billet is heated to its "Soft stage" then the soft material is injected into a cast die to form the initial shape which is then machined
Cast pistons are usually made of a "Cheaper" alloy (Lowest cost per unit)
Semi forged of a "Higher quality" alloy
Forged of a "Highest quality" alloy. (Highest cost per unit)
you will find especially in subarus pistons will be labeled or referred to as Hyperutectic.
This piston is die cast of a higher alloy when compared to cast pistons. But is of a lower quality material than "Forged" pistons.
so the term used frequently being "Semi forged" is incorrect. these pistons are "High temperature die cast"