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Hailz

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Posts posted by Hailz

    Rocker covers leaking

    in Legacy & Outback

    Posted

     Ichi Ban said:

    $700 WTF - parts cost is around 100 per side and 1-1.5hrs for an in experienced person pers die to change

    They are factory sealed with a high temp RTV only in the corners of the cams and also in the "1/2 moon" plugs

    Even genuine WILL leak without RTV

    Most common place that guys/gals dont look at is the "1/2 moon" plugs - these ALWAYS need to be resealed while apart

    WRXONP - orange goop always looks NAFF - try these Wurth brand hi temp -its grey and is hard to see on Alloy engines = nice tidy job

    I swear the big wigs in the Subaru workshop in Chch rub their hands together and let out a slight snigger every time they see me pull up :'(

    Rocker covers leaking

    in Legacy & Outback

    Posted

     DRFVDR said:

    Where did u read that u should just seal it with high temp gasket,I bloody hope it wasnt on here and if it was a link to it please so we can delete that sh!t.....

    Firstly BUY genuine gaskets and bolt seals,regardless of what any one else says(not on here as we ALL know better) aftermarket seals do not work and will leak ( I too have personal experience of this)...

    And go find another mechanic $700 to do a set of tappet cover gaskets is a rip.

    +1

    I've had two sets of rocker cover gaskets done in my BG - 1st by the mechanic around the road (they started leaking again in a month) had 2nd set done at the subaru workshop in chch using genuine parts and I've done 20,000kms since and they're still nice and dry (touch wood)

    However I was quoted around $700 for parts and labour at that same subaru workshop, mech warranty paid out for it though.

    Personally even if its going to be around the $700 mark to keep things dry for the next 100,000kms isnt that better then $350 every two months for the time you have the car?

    Do it once and do it right mate.

    Auto "mood" lighting......... :(

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

     newsuba']

    [quote name='spark_38 said:

    I've never used a cap, ever, and I've been into car audio for about 8 years now!

    And I'm running 3 amps: 2x E-audio and 1x JVC. 1600W RMS (total).

    I've had the same Exide Orbital (750CCA) battery for 2-3 years now. No fancy earthing kits; just a 2 gauge, 4 gauge and a few 8 gauge ground wires.

    /quote]

    +2

    Not only are caps useless in this context but they will degrade your SQ too.

    ah shiiit! I didnt realise it'd have an effect on sq, bloody hell what to do now then, ive got ten different people telling me different things lol, cap is stil in its packaging so can take it back if need be (i hope)

    Auto "mood" lighting......... :(

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

     boon said:

    OK - here's the test about whether some money-waste may have just occured.

    Turn your car off and give it some beans, see if the lights dim. If they do, your battery is poked, get a new one.

    If they don't, then what's happening is the dimming you're seeing is the drop from 14.4v (charge voltage from your alternator) to ~12.5v (loaded voltage of a normal battery). Your alternator is probably only a 90A jobbie. It takes probably 40 odd amps just to run your car so there's 50A for other stuff. So as soon as your audio pulls >50A (which happens quite quickly really) your voltage will drop from 14.4 to 12.5.

    A cap will help slightly but the only true solution is a high-output alternator which costs $$$ out here and who knows if anyone makes one for a subey.

    Yeap lights still dim without the motor running...... :(

    Whats my problem????

    in Gearbox and Drivetrain

    Posted

     WRXONP said:

    What if your say sitting there and you cant get 1st . If you just let the clutch out in neutral and then push it back in then go for 1st ? If it goes in that would to me indicate the 1st gear synchro is a bit worn . . . Does it go into 1st easily when rolling ? By letting out the clutch and putting it back in your spinning the shaft in the gear box which would position it in a different spot where maybe the teeth just line up . . . .

    yea i wouldnt say it goes in any easier when trying that trick man, you've stil got to argue with it, and nah it wont always go in with it rolling either.

    Bloody confusing stuff aye, i just get the feeling if i take it to a gearbox shop because of the quake every company will want the money and convince me i need a gearbox rebuild

    Auto "mood" lighting......... :(

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

    Hmmm well I ordered the cap this morning lol, the guy I dealt with at the auto electrician (which I trust as he's worked on my cars for the past 7 years) said that the current draw wasnt big enough to warrant putting in a bigger CCA rated battery - he reckons the prob is that the amps cant get it quick enough, its already got a 530CCA battery in it which is ample he thinks, however after the weekend I will know ???

    He can supply me with a 700CCA optima red top for $375 inc - I didn't think that was too bad

    Whats my problem????

    in Gearbox and Drivetrain

    Posted

     JoKer said:

    check clutch fluid and slave cylinder - I found a wee hole in the line between each was leaking fluid at about 180,000 kms

    Yeah have done that, I bled it maybe 25,000kms ago and it was bloody dirty and has got that way again but has never used any, mite give it another wee bleed over the weekend and see what happens :)

    But yeah I agree with ya's might just be another one of those "typical subaru traits"

    Whats my problem????

    in Gearbox and Drivetrain

    Posted

    Hello again fellow clubsubbers,

    Ok here's the thing, sometimes I cant hook first gear - there's just nothing there, it kind of goes half in, it only happens very rarely but if I hook reverse straight away (which it will do with no probs) it slips right back into 1st easy peasy, I get the feeling this isnt a gearbox prob more likely a clutch issue but I'm no trained mechanic (clutch is only about 20,000kms old), I would like to just take it into the shop but due to the Chch quake Im rather limited to what I can get to :(

    Any ideas peoples?

    Auto "mood" lighting......... :(

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

    hmmmm yea the install guy i spoke to refered to the cap idea as a band aid too, i wouldnt have thought my amps are too power hungry? So would the best fix be a gruntier batery and some more earth points lol i thought 4 would suffice :(

    thanx guys!

    Auto "mood" lighting......... :(

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

    Ok first of all many thanks to the people that pointed me in the right direction in my previous posts for setting up my sounds - they sound amazing!! Everyone thats had a listen has said that they rock :)

    Anyways I now have a new problem...........the lights flicker when I give the volume knob a bit of beans :(

    Im running 4g cable to the boot with a splitter box and 8g going to the smaller amp and 2x 8g going to the sub amp, both amps have 2x 8g earth wires and mounts each and I've sanded back the mounting points and all that.

    I have spoken to a car audio guy in Timaru over the ph and he said "you shouldn't have a problem" and suggested running an Optima battery to fix it. I can leave the sounds going with car off for a couple of hours in the garage and it'll start with no problems so I wouldnt have thought the battery was an issue.

    Here's what I'm running:

    (all pioneer)

    TSA1702C 260wat components

    TS-D1602R 260wat 6inch rears

    GM5400T 760wat amp (Sub)

    GM3300T 300wat amp (front speakers)

    1200 wat 12inch sub

    DEHP7150UB Headunit

    Any help would be awesome!!!!

    Install advice please :)

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

    Sweet sweet and sweet, I think I might give the carpet underlay in doors trick a go actually, sounds a bit easier than custom cutting bits and pieces of wood up :)

    A workmate said to me today that I shouldn't be mounting an amp to a sub box as this can wreck them due to the vibrations - is there any truth to this?

    Install advice please :)

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

    Any ideas whether or not it will make any difference mounting the front component crossover boxes under the front seats and extending the wires or do these things have to mounted as close to speaker as possible? Just that those pioneer ones are bloody massive!! and I cant fit them inside the door panel anywhere........... :(

    Also is there much to be gained by just sealing up the holes in the door with dynamat rather than doing the entire door as that seems like one hell of a mission as the face of it is faaar from flat!

    Sorry for all the questions guys just that I now have $2150 worth of stereo gear sitting in my garage (minus wiring ect) so I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right as this is the first time I've had a go at it lol

    Install advice please :)

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

     Scoobydoo said:

    How many subs these days have solder connections? None that I've ever bought, they all have push or screw-down type connections.

    Plugs of some description are key if you want to have things removable, you will need them on power, earth, remote wires, and speaker cables. You don't actually make any mention of wanting / needing your sub / amps to be removable so I didn't bother to give such advice.

    yea the sub iv got is just a screw on setup afaik, im planing on mounting the amps on the rear of the seats, and i very rarely need al the space of the wagon so its no big dramas :)

    Install advice please :)

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

    Allrighty so after spending a decent wad of cash over the weekend this is what I have.....

    (all pioneer)

    TSA1702C 260wat components

    TS-D1602R 260wat 6inch rears

    GM5400T 760wat amp (Sub)

    GM3300T 300wat amp (front speakers)

    1200 wat 12inch sub

    DEHP7150UB Headunit

    and box of course

    Now this all cost an arm and a leg so hopefully I've got some decent bits :)

    What I need to know now is what size amp wiring I need to be using? The two amps will be mounted in the boot together.

    Now I know that you not meant to run RCA's beside the amp power cable but seeing as the amp for powering the front components will have to be mounted in the boot if I had to, where am I better to run the speaker cable going back to the front? Beside RCA's or beside power lead? or neither?

    I'm going to be running oxygen free cable ect and was wondering seeing as I'm not amping the rear speakers would there be any gain in running new O.F.C cable from the headunit to them?

    Once again thanks heaps for any advice!! :)

    which sway bar would i get more benefits from

    in Brakes, Suspension and Steering

    Posted

    What I got told from everyone before making my purchase on a new bar to up the handling was.............

    Front wheel drive = fit bigger rear bar

    Rear drive = fit bigger front bar

    Four wheel drive = fit bigger rear bar

    I fitted a 24mm adjustable rear bar from Whiteline in my BG wagon and it made a shizz load of difference - got rid of the typical subby understeer, I only have it on the lowest (softest) setting and it does the trick quite nicely, I found any harder it made the rear feel like it was wollowing over the bumps while cornering

    Need a bit of help please :)

    in I.C.E.

    Posted

    Thanks for all your help guys!! I reckon I've got things pretty well sorted - just that our stupid little town doesn't stock allot of stuff so off to Christchurch I shall go!

    Are all RCA cables much of a muchness? Uber cheap had a 4g amp wiring kit there ($119 :'() but dunno about using "SCA" branded RCA cables..............

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