Kiwi_Fozze
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Posts posted by Kiwi_Fozze
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Having spent some time on a sportsbike I'm of the opinion that too soft is just as sketchy as too firm.
I personally run mca performance series with whiteline bars and links
I have softened the mca's up by like 4 clicks f+r as I'm running 9kg/mm front and 8kg/mm rears as it's a occasional track/autocross/fast road type setup.
It's going to be some trial and error, and to be fair bars are cheaper than struts to swap around. Most people do one or the other, I appear to be in the very small section of people that have done both.
My setup is firm, and I know the alignment is a little out, but so far it's been really good. Can't really comment too much though, as I've only got maybe 1500km on it since putting in the struts, most of which has been work commute
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On 22/09/2019 at 10:32 PM, Niran said:
@Kiwi_Fozze what's it at so far?
225 at the wheels and fugall torque. It's super lazy too. I might have chosen a rear housing that's a nudge too big, doesn't really come on till like 4k
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Had it on the Dyno Friday.
Had a couple of issues.
Basically, fuel injector clinic 1650cc e85 injectors have really bad short pulse control. Cheap injector, don't recommend.
The exhaust strangled it, and I have a huge amount of pressure drop across the intercooler. Like nearly 4psi.
Plan of attack:
New intercooler.
Adrenaline r 3inch tail section (or similar, quiet is good but needs to flow well)
Get some id1300x's
Retune.
As it is, it's a hoot to drive (safe tune) but it's... No where close to what the target was
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On 16/09/2019 at 2:01 PM, pl0x said:
Mine is set up with the two non baffled tee'd together, other two and crank case breather to the catch can which vents to atmosphere. It stinks, I plan on running a tube down so it vents under the car.
Didn't only the later blocks (grb onwards) have the other crank case port, which you would tee and plumb the non baffled ports to.
Nah v7+ had em, think even the v5/6s had em too
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I'd be looking to reinstate pcv...
Rear ports on the head should go to catch can.
Front ports should tee together and to the right hand side crank case breather if you have it, as a pressure balance system.
The pcv should also go back to the catch can, and there should be a consistant vacuum on the catch can.
Or you could set up some sort of exhaust Venturi to put vacuum on the can, I'm sure there was talk of that previously, along with a soopercooler....lel
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Bought some bloody expensive shiny bits. Bodged em together, shoved em into the car. That required the bumper to come off, and the intercooler to come out. And the aircon condenser to be unbolted.
Bolted it all in, poked some hoses around the place, pressure tested it, and whallah, 10 row oil cooler installed and pressure tested. Just as I was starting to put the car back together the heavens opened and in the urgent pack up I got drenched.
Need to get some heat shielding between the headers and the lines, as the Kevlar shielding I bought with the lines won't quite cut the mustard. Deleted front o2 sensor too, as the link doesn't talk to it. Tune on Friday.
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Changed my power steering fluid. Well, more accurately, I sucked out the fluid and poured some new atf in, cycled it, sucked it out, new stuff in etc etc so it was no longer a black sludge, and is now a semi translucent Reddy brown.
Going to do it again in another week or so, just going to run that stuff to loosen up all the crap while chasing out other rattles.
Car is running ok, need to get it tuned. Then a write up of the saga that has been this "she'll be done by Christmas" engine build that is now nearly 2 years overdue.
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In a foz I'd go for the 24mm 3pt adjustible jobbie. There's more weight higher up to deal with. And for sure, heavy duty endlinks are a must.
Be glad you don't have an sf chassis, the rear bar on those are only 14mm LOL
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Big rear swaybar will induce oversteer, they tend to have a whack of body roll till you get them a bit lower, but very capable. Unless they are auto as joker mentioned, then they are like 70/30 fwd biased and will push like a mofugger into corners with low traction.
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5 hours ago, Abomb said:
I should note that the second t was my doing, I used it as vacuum reference for my gfb ebc. I’m debating getting rid of the defi boost gauge all together since having two boost gauges is a little silly. But the problems with the defi unit were there before I installed the ebc.
Does your ebc boost reference jump all over the place like the defi gauge?
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Some will, most won't.
Basically, v11+ (grb chassis and newer) will fit, the rest won't.
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Ye that one.
Got em bedded in today, yeesh they pong when they get hot. But good god it drops anchor confidently.
Mca struts are freaking magic too, it's so planted!!
Definately needs a tune though
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6 hours ago, Omsin said:
I usually find it best to keep your foot on the pedal when you tighten the bleeder screw (keeps positive pressure in the system?). Start car, pump brakes a few times until the pedal goes hard. Job done
Keep in mind with new pads and rotors that your brake pistons have been pushed back in a lot further than when your pads and rotors are thinner, make sure to break in the pads and rotors for better initial bite and prevent rotor glazing.
Yep, done it once or twice, going to let it settle for a few days then re-bleed when I'm not rushed for time.
Brakes work fine, just slow take-up and a bit spongy. It's fine, just need to stop rushing. Lol
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1 hour ago, Abomb said:
When I did pass/rotors on mine I had the same issue, apparently there is a certain order you are supposed to do it in.
Driver front, passenger rear, passenger front, driver rear. Yeah did that.
Left the car to sit overnight, pedal feels a lot better today. Will let it settle for a few days then re bleed.
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Mca "street performance" Coilovers installed, with custom spring rates and their "stealth" option colouring.
brembos on, had to drill and helicoil one of the front caliper bolts as it was stripped.
Bendix heat treated vented slotted front rotors with z series pads, Bendix slotted vented rears, again with z series pads. Also stuck in some endless handbrake shoes, should make a nice difference.
Bled it all out, both sides of the calipers, pedal is still a bit squidgy in the first little bit of travel. Need to re bleed it, but gotta get more fluid first.
Looking forward to getting this beast tuned. Been driving it around for a while on wastegate pressure and break in tune, and it absolutely hauls arse.
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7 hours ago, A_J_T said:
Did you get some oversized shoes for the rear brembo conversio, If so where from?
5 hours ago, IZichard said:The STi wagon already has the larger rear handbrake shoes. The standard brembo rotors go straight on.
Correct, the sti wagon has the "v7 sti spec c gravel" brake package, 4pot/2pot r180 with the 190mm brake shoes.
I have, however, been in touch with a brake company that can get hold of "endless" sti handbrake shoes, and reading a couple of reviews I want to give them a go. Really agressive compound, really easily locks the rears even at like 50+kmh. Think hydraulic handbrake level of performance and control, just with the old cable setup.
We'll see how they go
Rest of the brakes consist of dixcel z series f+r pads, dixcel heat treated vented front rotors and vented rear rotors, so it shouldn't have any brake fade issues.
I think I'm going to need to look at my tyre options in order to get the post out of the power and braking ability, while 215s might be fun and relatively cheap, I may have to find a tyre and wheel option that allow a 245 tyre. We'll see.
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Not quite today, but, brake rotors and pads in, just waiting on the handbrake shoes to arrive, then can install them, along with a set of brembo calipers f+r, mca street performance adjustibles to go in at the same time.
Also tidied up the install for my roof vent. Turns out the sedans and wagons are a little different in their placement of map lights, the wagons are a little more rearward.
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Cut a whacking great hole in the roof.
For, yah know, reasons.
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More adjusting and tinkering.
Extra heat shielding, securing things a bit better, re arranging and securing the manifold pressure lines, deleting my gfb ebc as it won't be used anymore.
In the process of trying to track down a rattle, found a couple of things that might be the cause, moved those and mounted em a bit more securely, more testing tomorrow. Slow and steady gets the job done I guess.
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Ticked off another item from the "must happen" list
Few more things to do then off to a Dyno.
Updates to come. And it'll likely be a big one.
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Mantic clutches are pretty good, but in all honesty the best bang for buck clutch is the OEM one
Definately resurface the flywheel too
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8 hours ago, Dairusire said:
Aaaaand the RA has now been tuned properly for e85. And only E85 haha
Giving the vf36 a leaning on and pushing 1.5Bar of boost through the poor old EJ205, and she loves it! Good lord this thing goes far better than it did before.
Bit of a kick in the guts considering the last engine cost me about 7k + some after it nuked and this ol 205 was nothing but $500 including a new water pump and cam belt kit!! None the less I’m bloody happy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can confirm, she go aite
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9 hours ago, Abomb said:
Hamilton
Have a look in the area sub forums if you're after waikato specific stuff, couldn't comment on what their meets are like
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3 hours ago, JimmyRally said:
Hi guys
Sorry trying to find an EJ207 from a V7 upwards and I found a guy selling one but when he sent me a photo is looks like a wrx engine. But he said it is definetly an sti and has 6 speed trans. So my question is did the 2003 impreza wagon sti ever come with a normal silver manifold or should the sti wagon have a red manifold and an intercooler that doesnt have sti printed on it?
Thanks for your help
J
The last sti wagon was the v7 bugeye, ended production October 2002. Check the chassis code, carjam is your friend. If the chassis code comes back as starting "gga" it's a wrx
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So long as you use a corrosion inhibiter without fail, it'll be fine