Phewsion

Don't think the cambelt has been done at all , There was an engine bay sticker in Japanese with a date on it, but unsure of it was that or a "service" 3 stickers along the front Next to "Make New Topic" was "Make New Poll" ? D: [quote name='Scoobydoo said: Then get the 02. Would you really want to be driving any car that your Mum would want to drive? Lol My mum never drives any of my cars, but I do drive her places so I take her when looking at new cars to test out "passenger comfort" She just doesn't like silver

Do the foresters still have UEL headers btw? forgot to ask that, I know the BP on legacys ended up with EL Headers so bye bye boxer rumble I did "choose" the 05 first, it's more of a spend more money to do to it what's already done on the 02 so in saying that the 05 has a built in dvd player that also has a hard drive D: I have to make my choice by Wednesday, ozfoz have heaps of info on the "XT" but next to nothing on Cross Sports, and I trust clubsubs advice Also the 05 is almost unique in that light blue look (My Mum likes the 05 )

2005 Forester Cross Sports (Bog Standard) SG5C or D? 106000ks 2002 Forester Cross Sports (Body Kit, Boost Gauge, Stealth Screen, 17" Alloys, Exhaust, Factory Tints) SG5A? 86000ks 2005 has the Facelift extras, 2002 has Lower milage and more aftermarket accessories $1000 price difference (02 being more expensive) Question is would getting the 05 then just buying the extra stuff the 02 has be the better way to go, or buying the 02 with everything already done See my sig I have a 97 S/TB now and was planning on trying to swap the mag wheels over Opinions/Advice welcome

Yeh I might get those they are only 4-5inch depth, I can fit anything under 6" in depth without it hitting panel This store is actually quite cool, didn't even know about it probably would have if there shop was in auckland I've always used Pioneer so other brands I'm not familiar with so thanks for the JBL Recommendations Edit: So I've decided to go with 2 x JBL GTO 804's the excursion on them is insane 200w RMS Each, I have a Rockford Fosgate 300.1 so I should be sweet according to their wiring wizard it says I can wire it like so:

The pocket is being removed and the metal area behind it is being sealed up with MDF and Dynamat to make it a sealed enclosure, the links above show it It should be air tight as long as I overlap the dynamat

Looking for 2 if possible depending on price

I know 10" Can fit drivers, but unsure if it will fit passenger side as it has a smaller space, JB Hifi had a 10" Pioneer for $99 [quote name='wrx_lou said: I'm assuming those pockets arent sealed? You need a certain type or they dont sound as good. If you really dont car and you just want cheap then just get some jarcar ones. url]http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/installed-8-sub-both-sides-hatch-merged-17902/[/url] (Passenger Side) http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/install-8-sub-stock-location-3540/ (Drivers Side) It will be sealed with a combo of MDF and Dynamat I already have a Rockford Fosgate amp that was powering a 12" Sub but takes up to much room Out of curiosity are the Jaycar subs actually crap ? Edit: nvm they only have 8" Active subs

Hey all I need a bit of help/advice on where to buy 8" subwoofers (The non active kind) trying to replicate installing 2 8" subs in either side of factory pockets in the back of my Forester but not many people seem to sell them I've found 1 on TradeMe http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/subwoofers/10-or-smaller/auction-511903845.htm but I don't know the brand and can't seem to find any reviews online for that specific model I've tried Driving Sound, Rapid Radio, JB Hifi, Hotwire, Paul Money, Parallel Import all the 8" they have are the active (powered) kind, Is there anywhere else someone can recommend me to look JL Audio 8w1 and 8w3 Kicker CompVR and CompVT Polk DB 8" These are the ones I was recommended, but searching online the 2 JL Audio ones are no longer made, Polk doesn't seem to be big over here for car audio and the Kicker ones are way out of my price range Thanks

Ah that's exactly what I did, plugged it in while the stereo was on, I'll have a look at that, thanks

Thanks for the advice everyone, I bought a RCA Noise Filter from Jaycar and that fixed it, so the noise was coming through the RCA cables My soldering is not that good as I've only just started doing it, before that everything I did was crimped This is my 6th car I've done audio overhauls in but it's the first time I've had 6x9s in the boot so I got a bit muddled, usually I just put nice front components and sub D: Since I'm trying to build the 2 sub enclosures in the first posts pic I took it out to make room but still wanted decent sound First thing I'm doing is replacing the entire booth liner with MDF EDIT The only thing I solder is audio wires, Power/Ground/Remote is just 1 long wire from battery/radio to amp, I got a block thing on battery to connect wires too when needed

Gonna ask a really stupid question Does it have a screen to display what station you are on etc..? Coz it looks like just a dial surrounded by silver D:

All the wires are soldered, The earth point is right under the flap at the back off the boot (base of seats) could it be because the speakers are sitting in boxes virtually on top of the metal the earth is connected too? I mean the only thing between chasis and speaker boxes is the foam/boot liner The gain is pretty low on the amp already, wanted to get rid of noise before fiddling with settings

Hey All I've tried to figure this out myself with bits n pieces of info I've found on google and on here but I'm still stumped I've got a pioneer Hu connected to pioneer components up front (No engine noise) I had an amp at the rear just powering a sub (no engine noise) I took out the sub and connected 2 kicker 6x9s I had from another car, as I'm planning on custom making a fibreglass enclosure for 2 10" in boot so took out the 12" with box while sorting it out. Now when I first plugged in the 6x9s all I was getting was bass and muffled voices (But again no engine noise), Took me awhile to click that the amp was in Low Pass mode so I flicked it to All Pass and then bam engine whirr through speakers which increases in tone when engine revs up. It also does it while in ACC With engine off but it's a very muffled hummmmmmmm It doesn't do it in the ignition part just before ACC (Not sure on technical name) before all the lights on dash come on, only stereo + amp I've got the power from batter running along left side of car, RCAs from HU running along right side so they aren't interferring, speaker cable coming out of amp aint anywhere near the amp power cable Basically the info I could find said power is to close to audio signal, but it's not, if it was wouldn't the noise come through no matter what amp setting (LP, AP or HP) it only happens on AP and HP Any help appreciated P.S If anyone wants to know I'll be making an enclosure similar to this, But with only 1 amp for subs

Hey I'm not used to how a Forester runs, so I'm unsure if this is normal or not (Was used to BH5 TT) Firstly when the Turbo sucks in air it sounds like puffing, On the TT when I put my foot down you could hear the sound from the air being sucked in , in the Forester you hear it but it sounds weird, E.g if u turn on a vaccuum cleaner and quickly cup and uncup the end (Not sure how to describe it any other way), Also you can't feel the turbo kick in just hear it Second, Noisy injectors I think, I've watched youtube clips of BEB and it doesn't sound like that, just a loud tapping and it goes in time with the turbo puff (Makes the noise on and off boost tho, just on boost the First problem is in perfect sync with tap tap noise) Similar to just not as noisyThe original owner ran it on 91 for about a month before I got it, I've had it fully serviced, new oil belts etc.. I've replaced the spark plugs and the leads and I run it on 98 now, Is the turbo going the way of the dodo, I don't even know what sort of turbo it is, do I replace it with a 2nd hand one or is it rebuildable or should I upgrade it (if it's poked) Or are the Injectors poked? Or is it something else entirely? Thanks Update: After driving around the puffing I thought it was is more of a Flutter, so does that point at the Wastegate now?

I'm going old classic 1967 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 or modern version 2010 That peugot in background needs a good clean

Think it's fixed I replaced the iginition leads with some Bosch High Performance blue ones, I pulled number 3 out to look and it had what looked like a very tiny hole on the side from the old plugs Now she's running sweet, boosts around 10psi from 0-60 with foot down, Not sure if that's about the norm or not but it feels smoother

Thanks everyone Need help with aftermarket Downpipe do I have to go forester specific or would something that suits the same year WRX fit (with minor adjusting) http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/other/auction-490633598.htm Down pipe? or http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=491814043 Full Exhaust (Don't know brand) or Driftmax Brand http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=490141063

Yeh I've got it set close I think something like 11-14psi (My maths is shoddy so it's a guestimate) I need to take it for a blat on the motorway I tried flooring it to 60km and it only hit 8psi on the boost gauge Question Re Link ECUs Could I in theory, buy a Link G4 to run my auto stock, then if I were to do a manual conversion somehow change the Link settings to manual? rather than fiddling around trying to find a V3/4 or manual forester ECU and having to rewire stuff if I do go manual, This is just hypothetical tbh for some reason I just started thinking about it

Yeh I'm not planning on going Brembos just something like These http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/brakes/auction-488371796.htm Which use a 296mm rotor or 294 I got a guide for it, just can't remember the number off the top of my head Which is why I went for thin spoke wheels so the "SUBARU" can be seen from behind, but I might paint them Silver or something, everyone goes black/red I'm gonna be different Edit: Ok so rang mag n turbo and spoke to another guy (Who I've been dealing with for wheels/tyres on all my cars) and he said the offset on those wheels I'm getting is +45, He thinks they should clear standard 4 pots just not brembos Greaaat on the way to work and my "Hold" light starts blinking, but car feels no different in terms of power, Could it be faulty AFM? I googled it but not much info

Different advanti symbol too, looks like chinese writing or something from a distance, usually it's just Advanti Racing in silver or black And they are light weight wheels too which is cool And nztintin why don't you have a thread in the Forester Garage

Sexy wheels! And I'm in auckland Would pretty much be the same as what I'm getting, and they look like they have enough room, I think mag n turbo were saying 18 coz i need to upgrade Rotors and he thinks there isn't enough clearance on a 17" for 294mm rotors? or something I have nfi

So might be safer to just mask off everything and spray it while on car? I got a compressor with the proper paint attachments, just my hand isn't very steady after I damaged a nerve years ago so figured safer to take it off

Yeh I can't find much info on that wheel bar fitment and 17x7, Can't find offset details And mag and turbo didn't have any in shop, ordered from Advanti website, Everything seems to be black on silver or vice versa and I just wanted a single color that wasn't going to stand out so he showed me those, You'd think the advanti website would have more info than just 4x100 5x100 5x114.5 and 17x7 I'll ring mag n turbo tomorrow to see if I can find out offset details Yours being 2000 would be what? SF5B or C? coz I even noticed a slight difference in our engine layouts when I looked at your garage thread

Hey I tried searching but I couldn't find anything in regards to removing this part I'm wanting to respray the bumpers and the parts circled with yellow the same color "Slate Metallic" I think it's called , it's looking a bit faded but wanting to know if the part that's circled can be removed from the door, I've seen pics of doors missing these but unsure if it's been broken off or if it's just screwed in from behind door Has anyone removed these? if so how difficult was it Thanks Edit: Also would 17x7 rims clear 4 pot (non-brembos), I asked the guys at mag n turbo and he thinks I'd need to go 18" to clear, I know I need 294/296?mm Rotors These wheels http://www.yhi.co.nz/newsite/store/cat152/Advanti+Racing/p726/ECO+MOTION.html

lol I'm planning to keep it, because it's quiet you can still hear the subaru rumble but it's not real loud or drony I was more so interested if Apexi made the rest or if this was just a muffler only thing, I can't find it on their website