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DRFVDR last won the day on September 19 2021

DRFVDR had the most liked content!

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    25 years as a diesel mechanic and subaru owner has taught me a few things :)
  • Interests
    Motorsports( rescue), fireservice(volly),electronics(mmmm toys) and family ( it is to large)
  • Location
  • Occupation
    Diesel Mechanic/Business owner

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  1. Cheaper/easier/less hassle to sell yours and buy an already turbo model will require engine,gearbox,Diff, hubs, brakes, suspension, full wiring loom out of donor It will then require driveshaft hoops and a cert for the engine swap all up probably $5-10k
  2. Been using these guys for stereo components for years
  3. Hope so my '89 Brumby is hopefully increasing in value
  4. I have one of these in my breakdown kit, easily starts a completely flat Diesel Hiace van, stays with a useable charge for months . Expensive YES, reliable YES, https://www.repco.co.nz/en/brands/projecta/projecta-lithium-jumpstarter-1250a-12v/p/A1302939
  5. I know we have dismantled 2 SVX's but we have 3 engines so another one has gone as well, also dismantled an XT, I will try and find photo's to get REGOs for you
  6. F*** that was awhile ago,10 years ago ? maybe, dude was a dickhead
  7. G-Scan 2 is what I use, not what I would call cheap ( NZD12,000) but will connect to anything and give you the options to that the bluetooth ones don't
  8. Things they can pull you up on 1/ "driving" lights are supposed to be in pairs( a light bar is one single light, I have seen people put a piece of tape vertically down the centre) 2/ Placement, the light bar is supposed to be between the headlights even with them. My hilux setup
  9. Yup trying to work that website but meh not working
  10. No switch has any more current than what is required to run a relay.
  11. @thewabbit1 If you could draw this up for me, I only use 1 relay when I wire up my driving lights on my subaru's. Hopefully I can explain it. So the switched side of the relay remains the same, + batt to relay, relay to Lightbar/driving lights ( make sure it is fused ) the switching side goes like this, from a switched +feed ( i use the cigarette lighter) to your cabin light bar switch, from this to the relay, then from the - side of the relay to the switched negative on the Highbeams. I hope that makes sense ( i dont usually even run a cabin switch,I dont usually see any reason to have the Lightbar/Driving lights switched off which simplifies the wiring even more as i take the switched side for the relay straight from the headlight, one+ and the switched - )
  12. RAL are running their shuttles @$6 per head return, we cannot compete with that so we are not running our shuttles ( we are instead contracting to RAL as they dont have the capacity so win win) pretty much IZichard said it all, take it slow and easy dont do anything quickly, especially coming back down, carry chains know how to fit them, biggest issue I see is tyre choice, wide 18's are next to useless ( or 20's/22's ) best are narrow ( under 195) 15's you need more ground pressure on snow and ice. this comes from 30 years driving shuttles on the Turoa Mountain road ( in excess of 1.5 million km's on that road)
  13. Not that it makes them anymore legal, I got a WOF yesterday with my LED bulbs fitted, he did mention it but if you have a good WOF guy then you may get them through. Mine are Narva ADR approved though
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