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DRFVDR

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DRFVDR last won the day on September 19 2021

DRFVDR had the most liked content!

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    25 years as a diesel mechanic and subaru owner has taught me a few things :)
  • Interests
    Motorsports( rescue), fireservice(volly),electronics(mmmm toys) and family ( it is to large)
  • Location
    Raetihi
  • Occupation
    Diesel Mechanic/Business owner

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  1. So there is a prescribed test procedure using calibrated test equipment ( an ear is not that) BUT once it has failed for noise it will be logged so taking it elsewhere will most likely (unless they have the test equipment) mean that it will still be failed. If you have it tested as being OK and they can supply you a "cert" then you should be fine from then BUT I would make 100% sure that it is compliant
  2. have the output actually measured ( did they measure it when it failed or was it just a calibrated ear ? ) it probably is to loud ( anything non standard would be borderline )
  3. Cheaper/easier/less hassle to sell yours and buy an already turbo model will require engine,gearbox,Diff, hubs, brakes, suspension, full wiring loom out of donor It will then require driveshaft hoops and a cert for the engine swap all up probably $5-10k
  4. Been using these guys for stereo components for years
  5. Hope so my '89 Brumby is hopefully increasing in value
  6. I have one of these in my breakdown kit, easily starts a completely flat Diesel Hiace van, stays with a useable charge for months . Expensive YES, reliable YES, https://www.repco.co.nz/en/brands/projecta/projecta-lithium-jumpstarter-1250a-12v/p/A1302939
  7. I know we have dismantled 2 SVX's but we have 3 engines so another one has gone as well, also dismantled an XT, I will try and find photo's to get REGOs for you
  8. F*** that was awhile ago,10 years ago ? maybe, dude was a dickhead
  9. G-Scan 2 is what I use, not what I would call cheap ( NZD12,000) but will connect to anything and give you the options to that the bluetooth ones don't
  10. Things they can pull you up on 1/ "driving" lights are supposed to be in pairs( a light bar is one single light, I have seen people put a piece of tape vertically down the centre) 2/ Placement, the light bar is supposed to be between the headlights even with them. My hilux setup
  11. Yup trying to work that website but meh not working
  12. No switch has any more current than what is required to run a relay.
  13. @thewabbit1 If you could draw this up for me, I only use 1 relay when I wire up my driving lights on my subaru's. Hopefully I can explain it. So the switched side of the relay remains the same, + batt to relay, relay to Lightbar/driving lights ( make sure it is fused ) the switching side goes like this, from a switched +feed ( i use the cigarette lighter) to your cabin light bar switch, from this to the relay, then from the - side of the relay to the switched negative on the Highbeams. I hope that makes sense ( i dont usually even run a cabin switch,I dont usually see any reason to have the Lightbar/Driving lights switched off which simplifies the wiring even more as i take the switched side for the relay straight from the headlight, one+ and the switched - )
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