rawyatt
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Posts posted by rawyatt
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Hey everyone, got a quick question here but am unable to find a definitive answer online so thought I would ask you guys. If i was to turbo a non-turbo 1992 bc5 VZ, how much of the engine/cabin wiring loom would need to be changed? Also is it as easy as unplugging and swapping over a turbo loom? Im guessing it isnt but worth an ask. Thanks all
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I diagnosed it as a headgasket as it was pushing oil firstly into the overflow bottle, then slowly more and more into the reservoir. Also when I left the car sitting for a couple days, on start up it would throw a big puff of white smoke. Couple weeks before, the car did get 3/4 hot on the temp gauge as a water hose came off. So I pulled the motor, got the heads skimmed and crack tested, gave the block surface a clean up. And put back together myself. No other symptoms, no smoke, no overheating, just oil sludge showing up in the reservoir.
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90% sure its getting worse. I can tick headgasket off the list but now thinking other things like oil cooler leak? Any ideas?
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Ok thats good to know. With the block, i used a toothbrush to get everywhere i could, and degreaser. With most of the pipes, i used just a rag to wipe off what i could get at, and with the radiator, was a bit difficult, so i just flushed it with water for about 10mins
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Hey guys, i have a 1996 gf8, manual and am getting oil in my water reservoir. It started a couple months ago and got to the point were it was getting quite a bit of oil gunk in the overflow tank and reservoir. So first thought was headgasket. Got into it and got them done about two weeks ago. Now the annoying part is, im still getting oil in my water. Could it be just the last of it coming out?(i did give the radiator and engine a good clean while it was out) Or could it be the turbo? Oil cooler? Any suggestions will be helpful:)
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by bigger port, do you mean the opening on the valve side? or the intake side of the heads?
just found a thread saying w25 ej257 heads have smaller ports than z20 but bigger cams
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would be a good piece of mind having one but as u say, big $$.
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yeah getting inserts, maaayyyybbbe sleeves but thats on the wish list. Was hoping to get a cdb but for the price and shipping from the states, couldnt bring myself to do it.
Iv had a few looks on the net but couldnt find anything detailed.
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Will be more tempted to use a wire in link. That was going to be my next big question, can you put aftermarket cams in avcs heads or is it a waste of time? if i use the v5, they will definatly be getting 272 cams or even 282.
Just seems like i would enjoy the difference of having avcs heads over the v5 but i definatly know v5 sti heads are good for some big power. Havent thought too much about a power goal but atleast 320kwatw to be a serious(semi reliable, as far as one can be) race car, then will go from there
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awesome evowrx, exactly what i was looking for. Firstly its shim under bucket, no idea on the valve size and ports. will be leaving how much they will be ported to the expert who will be doing it atm, as i dont know much about that side of things at all. any chance a link would be up to the task of dual avcs? dont think il be buying any other heads because if this z20 idea fails, then v5 heads are a definate go. will get hold of murch but the goal with this car is it will be a track/race car, has an ej22 block, these heads, custom twinscroll exhaust, hx35 and all the usual bolt ons. just need to decide on the head im going to use so i can get my a into g haha will create a build thread soon
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Mine is none waste gated also but no housing sorry haha
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No idea but can measure it when I'm home for you mate. Being twinscroll, I would hope it will spool quite quick. If I go with the z20 heads, they will defiantly be getting upgraded valves and springs
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Cheers for the replys guys. Originally was going to use the v5 heads cause there known to make excellent power but got the z20 heads for free. So have no problem spending some coin on them. The turbo I have is a hx35 twinscroll so was thinking the avcs would work a treat with them but couldn't find any good info on the z20s so was hoping someone here could inform me. I will port and polish them but don't want to waste my time with them if they can't beat the sti heads
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That's what I was thinking. Hoping someone knows
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Hey guys, just after a bit of info regarding some heads I have. Really just want to know which heads are going to be better for me max power wise. First set are v5 sti heads with a mild porting job. Second are factory z20 heads from a bp legacy which have avcs on intake and exhaust. Will be mounted to an ej22 block. If both have equal aftermarket support, which will be better?
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Will be there but in my integra
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Thanks scarles team, got mine today. Very happy with it.
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i think id agree with that as a mate passed with ali wheel nuts not that long ago, just my cert guy said their becoming illegal but i havent really looked into it.
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I recently failed a cert with aluminium wheel nuts
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hey sorry for bringing this old thread back up, but was wondering what psi people were getting on their parallel setup?
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Still happening, realised its only when secondary turbo hits full boost it hesitates
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Hey guys, long time since I posted something but got a new suby and its a 1994 bg5. New to the twin turbo game but isn\'t to shabby when VOD isn\'t kicking you in the teeth. Anyway car was running good, then a put an exhaust on which mainly has an sti rear muffler on it, still has factory down pipes. Then soon after a hesitation started where primary turbo and idle is fine but when I get through VOD and floor it, at about 5,500 into secondary turbo, it starts to hiccup or hesitates. If i keep my foot down it will get through it but it feels so rough. As I watch the boost gauge it goes to 14 then it hiccups and falls to around 12 then struggles/bounces to get back to 14. Idk if its a coinsidence with the exhaust but iv searched and shown i should replace sparkplugs, check coils so I will in the next couple of days but I\'m just hoping someone else has had this problem and can help me out. It doesnt affect anyother driving, just only when flooring through second turbo in 3rd 4th and 5th. Also a couple other problems but I\'m sure they wouldn\'t effect this, first is when I turn the key to on, I can hear the fuel pump(walbro) prime and then sometimes a can hear a noise after which sounds like someone trying to get the last of the milkshake out of their cup with a straw. I\'m pretty sure this has something to do with the emissions system so I just have to live with it and that\'s fine. Second is when I\'m half throttling it at around 3,000rpm I get a noise like if you blow over the top of an open bottle. Funny kind of whooping noise but I\'m sure after some searching I found it to be a leaky bov. So I don\'t think they will have any play on the hesitation, and looking foward to your advise, cheers
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my god that is b e a utiful!!! absolutely winning
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cambelt covers are sooo last week
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Turboing a Non-Turbo
in Legacy & Outback
Posted · Edited by rawyatt
Thanks for the replies but really only asking about the wiring side. As i recently got a dereged rs legacy which has everything mentioned above and more. So am fully capable of swapping everything over but the only thing im unsure about is the loom. Is it a simple engine loom swap or swapping the whole cars loom?