Drunkenmonkey
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Posts posted by Drunkenmonkey
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I'm pretty much on the fence at the moment.
I love the look of the Legacy's but I'm not overly keen on a twin turbo.
Will all depend on what my car sells for, or what I get offered.
Unfortunately the type of car attracts a certain type of buyer and I keep getting offered bloody Euro's lol
But my gtb
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How many plugs it got? Afaik should be the same as a turbo minus few wires for boost solinoid
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That spots been done before
there's a hint -
Get married first
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There was a guy on here who said he was running be b4 heads and I saw it hit the 400 kw mark on the dyno
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Must be my phone but that knock sounded l a lot heavier than my piston slap sounded, like thorpys Beb on agm night.
Is the car down on power at all?
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That's a hell of a knock sounds like big end to me,
Got a long screw driver? One trick is hold it on places and move around see where it's loudest with your ear on the other end
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ReubenH is in qtown could offer a bit or free advice, hes expended a beb in his gtb
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It's not as simple as "new big ends" there's polish crank etc their price would have been a full rebuild
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Swap auto flex plate for fly wheel drop in easy
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http://www.fortyone.co.nz/parts/view/33540.html
I think you would be hard pressed to find a better quality turbo for street/track use for less than the above (other than one you had built by steve murch)
There sites confusing to navigate around...
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Buy a holset from the states they go really well! And cheap
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No they run multi link rear setups
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What year is gh?
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Omg no way they actually charging a car thief no way....
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De solve it and elbow grease
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It will have one,
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A bg I had woul only boost secondary was leaking up pipe in the end
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haha was going to say!
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Agreed just use the correct size you prob have hardly any volt drop on a 35mm, I'm just curious on this current drop causing issues?
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To the people who are saying longer cable = more current loss - yes correct - but also your saying the bigger the better ?? The laws of current drop also state that the thicker the cable the more current loss also
I've done heaps of battery relocations - some with proper wire from a sparky - some with simple 4 gauge wire - same results - also back in the days when I first did it I ran a positive and negative through to the back - was definitely harder to start with more current drop = less current at starter - when earthing the head to the engine bay - and earthing the battery to a solid earth on the boot hae never had any issues
Bit one question for a sparky tho
Would sensor values be slightly screwed from having a longer path ??
Ummm??? Current drop? You got anything to support this makes it worse? as a sparky the best thing to do is have less current which is less heat, current = wattage/voltage, so having bigger cable you have a higher voltage (less volt drop) which is more important so therefor you draw less current.
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ever had the flywheel off?? Does it quieter down with the clutch in?
there's a hint-
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Got Pink Stickered : Info Gathering
in Legal
Posted
Is this on your v7? Doesn't that come with 17s?? Or you changed cars again lol