killervq30de
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Posts posted by killervq30de
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Will generic odb2 work with Ssm or does it need his adapter or tactic?
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I've got stock non-McIntosh stereo and has a -10 MHz offset so 94.2 is 84.2
Of late it seems that stations have been going off frequency even more. And I vaguely recalling the -10 ones weren't very good as they still ended up clashing with other stations. The edge 94.2 in some parts of Auckland clashes with a NZ Chinese radio station.
So the question I had is.. are the other band expanders any better. I think they did -10 as its easy maths for people but I recall getting some that are -12 and -14. I was going to upgrade my stereo (new face plate plus double din stereo) to get around this but if I can just go band expander it will save 100's
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SI Drive - BEEP. You are trying to down shift at too higher RPM or upshift at to a lower rpm. The arrows that show in the dash above gear say whether you can up or downshift at that time. You can't in into Sport# until the blue light under temp gauge goes off
Push button - Replacement keys I'm told are like $500 from Subarau. If you remote is flat you can hold it over that little grill thing to the left of the steering wheel for a while. apparently it has a conductive charger in there gives you just enough juice to power transponder. I don't think we can do anything special with the remote like wind windows down like the previous years could (I've held unlock,etc nothing)
The soft buttons on the door are to lock or open the door. it won't work if you don't have the key out side of the car. Theres also one on the boot lid to the right of the handle.
The only trick I have found to leave the stereo running and turn off the car is to
1. with engine running and stereo on
2. put car into neutral then push the start/stop button
3. stereo should still be on
4. shift to park
Otherwise you have to push the stop,button then start button again which I don't like doing
Headlights - yes plastic. I used a plastic polish that said for head lights. Is you passenger one more foggy?
Alarm - These do have a built in alarm that will sound the horn if the door is opened by key or someone reaches in window and unlocks. the horn will sound. sometimes this is off from the factory but you can get this re-enabled.
standard toys
-shopping bag hook in the boot
-electric rear seat fold down
-you can unlock the doors without a key - you set a code where by you lift the door handle in a certain seuquence and it unlocks
-you can put drivers window up and down for about 10 secs after car is off
I brought the JDM translated to English manual of trademe, got it for about $20 on $1 reserve. It covers a lot of features but is still generic and doesn't cover everything. I think its an 03 one with stuff like SI drive added to it.
If you drive for 2hours - it will pop up message in Japanese saying to take a rest brake
if its overly cold when you start driving - it will pop up message telling you to watch out for ice
I brought my car from Winger Subaru and have had very good experience with services. I compared prices with another company I had heard of subtech and they seem competitive so prefer to go to Winger who are official Subaru dealer
I had a post about most of this stuff back in Julu 2014 if you want to search to find anything I missed
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How do you think it would compare with one of these? I'm looking into one of these rather than trying the mod route. Sick of the stock stereo with the dodgy band expander
specs seem reasonable
General Information
Operation System Pure Android 4.4.2
CPU & Frequency RK3188, Cortex A9 Quad Core, 1.6-1.8GHz
RAM DDR 3 1G/2G(Optional)
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Cannot find anything on that sorry - only how to unlock if there's no power, I have a similarly dumb question: How would you move the gear knob when the car is off i.e shift it from P to N to roll the car a bit?.. There used to be a button for that, not anymore at it seems.
Can't find the link but you pop the trim around the shifter and I think theres a button on the top left hand side
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My B was registered in Japan in Feb 07, so a MY06.
Mine has the VF44 too .. so don't know who got what. Unless auto's are vf44 and the manuals are vf45. Thing I said about MY06 and the vf44 was just off some post on US forum and they are unlikely to know that much about the JDM variants anyway
Double checked and mine is a genuine GT spec B (rather than someone just adding wheels and bumper), it has the BP5E5CV model plate by passenger door. http://www.japanvehicles.com/newcars/subaru/LegacyBP/LegacyTWBP_E.htm
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Mines auto gt spec b 2007, according to Carjam.co.nz was first registered in Japan June 07. Vf44 allegedly is my06, and the vf45 is my07.
Kiwi Joe and Andy Mac, I'll give it a go tonight
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I'm going to assume vf45 too, which is reassuring over the vf38. Won't have time unfortunately for a while to dig around in there.
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Neodowd is yours a jap import firstly? Not sure if nz spec went facelift 06 or 07
Na checking it is a piece of cake. Just had another look now, just have to remove the engine cover then its on the compressor on the passenger side
Comp housing
And there's the sucker hidden down there, pretty vertical to where you look hence needing the mirror. Or just chuck the phone down there and take a few snaps and hope one comes out clearly.
Thanks for doing that I had though it was under the big metal lump/heat shield
What turbo do you have?
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Winger said for my 2007 legacy GTB you didn't really need to do oil every 5k. I'm only a between the lights driver with a bit off the line.
Is it really necessary to do 5k, my oil is still a brown and light consistency 7k after service.
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Mines a GTB. Cool ill try and have a look, I assumed it was covered by heat shield. Saw a video online from a forester and he removed the intercooler then best shield before it was visible
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How would a car like this go against a car like the Mercedes E55 that has 350kw at the crank? Because the Mercedes is higher would it still win a 1/4 mile race? Or do other factors come into play
E55's engine was tuned to 476 PS (350 kW; 469 hp) and 700 N·m (520 lb·ft), the low end of the supercharged 55 range due to its longer exhaust system, compared to the SL55 AMG's engine at the high end which made 517 PS (380 kW; 510 hp) and 720 N·m (530 lb·ft).
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Was wondering how much you could up the boost without changing anything else.. then found that the VF38 turbos don't like to be pushed.
Which lead me to find this out.. not sure how much is right as its cobbled together from random info, which all seems to go back to one sticky post about different turbo types.
The pre-2006 JDM facelift Legacy GT are meant to have a VF38 turbo for Autos and a TD04 for manuals. Auto making 195kw and the manual 205Kw. The TD04 is meant to flow better than the VF38 hence the higher power. I read the TD04 was to help avoid boost drops between gear shifts
2006-7+ are meant to have VF45 turbos which are ball bearing compared with thrust bearing on the VF38 (which are apparently prone to dying?). both auto and manuals now hace the vf45 and it flows nearly as well as the td04
So I'm wondering if the auto now makes similar power (excluding % of loss from torque converter)? So maybe 200kw?
Has anyone with a facelift/2007+ BP seen what turbo you have? Not sure if the GTB's got it for example and the GT stuck with the VF38?
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Seen so many wagons since buying my car, this was on Hobson Street(Auckland) driving mine
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Apparently these seats were an option on the Gen 4's:
I brought this boot liner the other day and the guy selling it had a Legacy STI Wagon and I think it had these seats, only thought about it when I left. It seem to be a geninue sti version. Had the seats, sti branded wheels, strut brace, brembo brakes, sti suspension(which he said was very firm - my GTB is firm enough), something about a sport 6-speed but might just be the standard legacy one)
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Question - Push button start.
Is there away to go from Car Running back to just Accessory mode (for radio)? It seems like you have to presss once to Turn car off and then again for Accessories
And if you are in Accessories mode, if you push button to turn radio off then the dash lights up and you have to push again to turn car off. I tried holding down the button while in accessories mode to turn it straight off but no you have to go to on mode (dash lights) and then off again.
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After doing some research my understanding is that the cc and non-cc clusters are completely different.
You can get the buttons from here (thanks to jonossiksilvia for a tip off, got in touch with the seller and he listed a few more), http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-B3-Impreza-Cruise-Control-Steering-Wheel-Switch-Genuine-/231273587894, ships from Israel, took slightly over a week to get to Auckland.
Brake switch from partsouq https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=83370AA001, please let me know if you decide to order from them (I need a small cheap part
)Installation is very easy, less than an hour.
I'm abit wary of ripping into the car now but I might just buy them for when I have had it a while and feel more adventourious, better to pick it up now and sell it on later if I don't use it. I'll let you know when I order, i'm after a few other bits first.
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You get a beep and a message (press I for more Japanese details
) when the car is on and one of the doors is open, or when you're deriving and not wearing a seatbelt. Don't think those are problem related messages, just some Info stuff.Installed cruise control yesterday, works perfectly (just no appropriate lights on the dash, everything is straightforward anyway).
Do you have a link to howto with what parts you'd need to order? Weird about the lights as I believe they are LEDs not bulbs so you'd think it would be less work/cost to just build one version of the cluster
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Ah get ya now. Can't think of any warnings that only chime once other than fuel and thats pretty obvious.
One of the downsides of jap imports ay.
For sure like the INFO button on the steering wheel, if you hold that down for 2 secs just afer engine starts you can change some stuff around, overseas model manual says you can set birthdays and stuff. I had a quick look at it but got to a menu that said ON OFF and had no idea what I was about to adjust so backed out real quick. No telling what different options the JDM one has
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Yeah I have had it, only twice, two consecutive mornings. Was the two days about a month ago Auckland got down to record low temps. Happened about 10 mins into my commute, so was already in s#, cant replicate it either so cant get a pic with google translate
Thats sounds like same circumstances as me - had been around 4 degrees when it first happened and I think low temp another time too. It does have on the dash an UNDER TEMP light which is meant to come on when its really cold to warn you the roads could be icey (saw that in I think the us/canda manual)
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You sure its not you trying to go into s# when the engines cold? Pretty sure mine beeps every time you change modes. So that explains that i think..
Can't remember if a warning comes up in the dash when you try going into s# when cold or not. Could be just a message saying it doesn't want to
I wasn't actually changing modes at the time though, was just driving and it did it. Just the singular beep you get like with changing SI drive. Not concerned but definitely curious
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Pre facelift auto GT I'd typically get 450-480km per tank for 95% suburban driving. Road trips out of Akl would typically be around 9L/100km. My best run was a trip to and from one of the beaches out west (Piha I think?) which returned 8.03 L/100km.
Sounds like me but I'm hoping to buck that trend.
These should ease my pain a bit for now, from a company rewards thing $20 giftcards
)
) when the car is on and one of the doors is open, or when you're deriving and not wearing a seatbelt. Don't think those are problem related messages, just some Info stuff.-
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Anyone read Japanese? Legacy bp5
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Every so often of late after turning car off with the start/stop button, the dash dings and shows this message?