killervq30de
-
Posts
256 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by killervq30de
-
-
Really depends on my driving and if the SI drive lives in I or S#, with 'I' and Nana driving I can get it past 600km a tank. But that's too much effort. City driving with it in s# all the time I get about 500- 550.
Yeah the 11.5 was with normal S driving too. I'd be happy with 500-550kms
-
Did a 300km round trip to the coromandel yesterday, 11.5km/litre (8.6litres/100km), good result I think which is expected on the open road but gives me hope for my crap round town fuel economy
-
The price i got from pf automotive was 1200 for the lot including oil pump seals, don't think it was cam seals though. And subaru was 1200 aswell including oil pump seals and they said they could check cam seals and do them if needed for like another 90
I recall what the $2000 was for it was the 100k service. it was the 1200$ like you say for the cambelt stuff and the other $800 was for fluid change diffs,gearbox,coolant,brake. I got quoted $800plus gst for 50k service for fluid change only from subtech so winger seem to have competitive pricing for a dealer
-
-
I think I got this link off this site anyway but here it is again Legacy BP models and features http://www.japanvehicles.com/newcars/subaru/LegacyBP/LegacyTWBP_E.htm
-
All those things you mentioned above you wanted to do you should just do yourself. They're all pretty easy and it'll save you a fortune.
Would just be the spark plugs (I'd probably cross thread or something) and fuel filter (tried this on my last car and it was btch to do without a lift to access and hoses didn't want to budge) that I wouldn't want to do. Going forward ill do the 5,000km oil changes but the 10,000 needs to be done by shop for mechanical warranty
-
Auto's may get worse mileage than manuals it seems - C'est la vie
Whats your manual or auto getting? With some mix of highway and suburb driving.
3.0's - could only have so many options sorry but chime in anyway.
As posted mine is about 480kms to the tank, I plan on getting it serviced for the following:
spark plugs checked/replaced
fuel filter replaced
air filter checked
upper engine cleaner
petrol additive in the tank
Dunno if I will get that all done before we go up to coromandel for the day so will be interesting to see what sort of highway mileage I get.
-
This looks good, looks like the same cubby
And this would look good if in blue, looks fancy as
http://gtboostgauge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=24
-
+1, at least every 2nd oil change. Every time on higher km engines.
This one
Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner SA459 is the only upper engine cleaning product that has been tested and approved by the factory to be used in Subaru vehicles, and included as a factory requirement in the maintenance and service schedule. Where do we get from n NZ? Winger? Or just get them to do it when servicing it?
-
-
-
Im somewhere between 107 and 110k at the moment, Mines a JDM 6 speed.
My range meter is the thing i use the most in that car, mine is super accurate, light comes on at 80km. Ive managed to get it down to 30k before giving me ---- (usually its 40)
Kiwijoe, I find my range gauge updates pretty quickly when I give it some Jandal. Seems pretty responsive, although I trust it just a little too much maybe haha.
Mine is stting around 7.9 kms/litre (think got about 480Km on the last tank).. I find the range metter more depressing than anything because it shows you how little you get to a tank
All inner city / suburb driving. -
Also found this yesterday. Will be pretty awesome for some subtle hidden gauges
+++++http://www.cubbypods.com/#!product/prd1/1613616265/jdm-subaru-legacy-liberty-cubbypod-(rhd)+++++
Remove +'s
Wouldn't let me put a normal link in for some reason???...
This looks quite good if you had 2 tasteful gauges, I'm tempted. And cheaper than the sti equiv and miles better than sticking/screwing on to the dash
-
Yea that km left value seems a bit gimmicky. Took the car down to wellington a few weeks ago and it was all over the place, and really slow updates so not really worth watching if you ask me.
Damn 56k is pretty much brand new. Suppose its because there's alot less desire for auto's
Jap import though aye? Long run time but low k's with the traffic over there.
Mines at 120k. Got a sneaking suspicion the cambelt hasn't been done so will have to work out how to check for that...
Yep was imported @ 15k and then traded back in at Winger @ 55K(they brought a '14 Forester XT) . I wanted low kms because otherwise after a few short years she'd be up around the 200ks and all the maintance dramas.
Auto Auto Auto - I think I'm jealous in away of all these 6 speeds that have cropped up in this thread.. but then Denise couldn't drive my last car as it was manual, you need to budget for a new clutch every few years (depends how you drive) and these subaru sport auto boxes are inifitely better than your standard 4AT box as they hold the gear better without changing upper and the tiptronic is bit a bit of best of both worlds deal - meh manual is still more fun though
-
The distance remaining number is just an estimate based on average fuel consumption over the last 30km. If you start driving more aggressively when the fuel tank is nearly empty, you could run out much sooner, but the computer wouldn't know and would continue to suggest you had a few kilometres left; hence the maximum distance indication is 40km. Below that it won't give you an estimate and just tells you to fill up. The owner's manual says:
"If the driving range is shown as “---”, there is only a tiny amount of fuel left in the tank. You must refuel the vehicle immediately."
My fuel light came on when the gauge still had like a quarter notch to go and trip comp was saying 80kms, which is about right as it was $120odd to fill from there. So pretty early for light to come on.
How manys kms does everyone have on the clock? I'm on 56ks now, I couldn't see any sub 80km manuals when I brought mine
-
08 GT SpecB here. I never use "I" drive myself. I will use it if someone that isn't me is driving the car though, especially if they're not used to more powerful cars (ie my gf/family).
I saw a review on his site about a stock 07 about how much smoother and quicker throttle response was - mine doesn't seem slugish at all. What sort of gains should you expect from a Stage 1 everything stock?
-
I can get them new for around 500.genuine
Are the avojdm ones not oem? Those landed are about $450 so $500 in NZ is not too bad considering you get it straight away and not lost in post
Does anyone have the part code or link to the cable that let's you use steering controls still? Legacygt.com has link to a site but there are too many options
-
I do have some small modifications, but use the factory ECU. It's fully programmable.
I've got a 3 year mechanical warranty so I can't do any mods, will give them a call actually to see what if anything is allowed. Gives me piece of mind not sure if I'll mod when its up or sell it on and get another car with warranty again.
Funny my last car was 145kws (3litre manual maxima) and this one is 191kw 07 GTB, so decent jump and still needlessly thinking what can I do to it
-
My BP5 is a JDM 06 Revision D, 6spd Manual (GTB) with SI drive, no push button, normal chipped key. yours is the first push button legacy Ive seen, didn't know they came out like that, lucky bugger
If you are in, or near Auckland you should come along to one of the meets (either Sunday or monthly)
pfft I'll have the manual you can have the push button start
And a nice blue too, you got lucky on that find. I dunno happy with auto still as I say above its still a sporty auto and the paddles make it fun to pretend its manual I think s# is 'different' for autos because if you live in s# if you tap the gas too far it wants to shift down and take off, with manual and s# you'd be controlling what gear its in and so accelerate rather than launch
yep I'm in Auckland too saw there was meant to be a meet just the other day, will see how it goes the next time ones on
-
I have an 07 Spec B, and found SI-Drive pretty pointless. 'I' was unpleasantly sluggish, and acceleration in 'Sport Sharp' was so manic I often felt like I was going to drive up the back of the car in front when moving slowly through heavy traffic. Sport was linear, and that's really all you need to properly control your car.
Last year I had my ECU tuned by Spec Performance in Christchurch, and each of the three modes now has distinct performance differences, including boost pressure. This is how it should have always been, in my opinion, but I can imagine Subaru didn't want to accept the legal implications and liability of allowing on-the-fly power changes.
*Oh, and here's another little Legacy tip: if you want to know how much fuel you have in the tank without putting a key in the ignition, just press the trip meter knob. The fuel gauge will light up and move to the fuel level, and the trip computer screen will light up and show how far you travelled since it was last reset.
S# is not for in traffic driving though its for spirited driving
Do you have any supporting mods (boost controller,etc) or standard can you do with just standard ECU?
-
Anyone with a
There was a discussion about the SI-drive function being utterly useless - I actually really like it (3.0R spec B), some reviews do say though that's it's pretty lame in GTs.
Overall I am very happy with the 3.0 - not as much fun as turbs, but still enough power to have a bit of fun. IMHO
SI drive:
I mode: its ok for warming up the car and highway/long distance driving, but round the suburbs its to slugish
S drive: I keep it in this most the time and thats pretty punchy
S#: It does have better throttle response but I wonder if 'S mode' is actually better once your fully rolling (based on my test hill)
Pretty happy with the Auto too after having a manual car for so long, i like how it holds the gears for longer rather than a normal slushbox which will try and change up on you the second you let off the gas.
Blipping the gears with the paddles is still cool to.
Anyone elses brakes soft? They do work but you just have to push them mnore than a tap for it to start really stopping. Push properly on the pedal and it stops no problem but slight tap and you are still rolling, I down shift for the lights with the paddles (at right revs and all to help out). Is this part of the ESB or what ever it is that is meant to distrubte braking better
-
Test fit into the car, fits really nicely, looks factory.
Still just the reversing camera installed at the moment, waiting on a voltage regulator before I can install the pi, but we\'re getting there.
Couple of questions where did you pickup your double din fascia from? And are you still able yo steering wheel controls some how?
-
@Gotasuby - So which part do you remove to get to the first screw? The door pulling handle is the bit that is slightly loose buttom part isn't fully seated which makes it rattle a bit
@Aurai - Yes push start. Apparently if the remote battery goes flat you hold the remote up to the PushStart and it gives it just enough choose to disable imobilizer. Yours SI drive and push button too? I've seen pics of alarm fobs and this seems to be odd one out (I have a spare too so its not a replacement) this has the physical key inside the remote too
First world problems I can’t see the interminent wiper setting as my paddle shifter is in the way
@tebbyj - just the non-McIntosh standard subaru one (gx-204je). Mine does the quiet chirp too. if you push the lock button on passenger door you can't even hear it but can from the boot or drivers door, by design maybe. Yeah love the gauge sweep and the blue ligh up drink holder
@jonossiksilvia - Must have been you write up I was reading. Yeah jealous that mine didn't come with cruise control, don't think I use it much but still want it. And VDC that would have been cool too. When they turned my Horn on for alarm I saw the computer they use and there are quite few options they can turn on and off
-
Tried holding down the unlock button? most cars it will put the front window down (or even all of them)
How did you get the horn to go with the alarm?
Held down buttons.. nothing extra happened.
Horn. Went to Winger and they hooked it up their scan tool. Your turn Siren off. Alarm setup On. locked door, window down and openned and the horn goess off.
-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 70 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
Lots of Legacy BP5's on the road, many on here?
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Beep - And random japanese message - Anyone else had it?
Had it happen 3 times now, the dash makes a beep (like when you change SI drive modes), then a japanese message appears that fills the whole little odo screen and then disappears after 1-2 seconds. I don't think its a warning because it doesn't stay on long enough and doesn't flash the CEL. My stuuupid andriod phone and even my old point and shoot wouldn't be able to power on quick enough for me to take a pic