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thorpy

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Posts posted by thorpy

  1. Have had a thought on this , any ECU gurus out there maybe able to help.

    The other day I reset the ECU and then went for a drive and found the problem was really bad.

    So I was thinking if the problem occours when engine is cold and also when ecu is reset , then the car would be running on the preloaded maps in these states and if a map was corrupt then this could be the cause?

    Correct me if im wrong , just assuming things from my limited knowledge.

  2.  GC8E2DD said:

    Haha, nzkaos has an easy fix. I don't think I've ever had shudders or crunches on the move in a straight line. Probably just getting a bit tired. I'm sure Subaru can rebuild them if you are worried about it.

    I dont think I wana know the price to do that :o , will stick with wheel spin as it runs fine normally.

  3. Hi

    Just wondering if someone can tell me if this is normal.

    Have accidentally knocked the thumbwheel for the dccd forward a coupe of times and found there to be alot of noises / clunking under the car.

    Also tried it just 1 stage forward in the rain and found under hard acceleration it would spin the rears as normal but only briefly but then you can fell a shudder as the drive transfers , not really a noise but just a shudder like a heavy clutch engaging under load.

    Does all this sound normal or is my paranoia correct and theres something wrong??

  4. Hi all

    My wifes GTB is having some issues and hopefully someone on here might be able to give me some insight before i spend $$ at the mechanics.

    When cold it idles very rough and almost stalls

    when driving it will randomly cough and splutter and limit revs to about 1900rpm

    also power light has been coming on sometimes.

    none of this has bought up any CEL's

    Have cleaned the AFM with no improvement.

    Car is a 2000 GTB E-tune.

    Thanks

    Thorpy

  5. OK when i got my type R it had the factory boost control disconnected and had a direct feed to the actuator with a boost tap that was closed so only running wastegate pressure ( about 0.5 bar )

    Tonight I reinstated the factory boost control and went for a test , result , a constant 1.2 bar (17.6 psi) which made it go damn hard ;D and boost really quick but also chews the gas. :(

    So my question is does the factory solenoid operate as a failsafe , ie. if it looses power it will only run wastegate pressure?

    Because if it does what im thinking is put in a relay to switch off the factory solenoid and run low boost then flick a switch to close the relay and run high boost.

    Would this work and has anyone done this before?? any input appreciated .

    PS it runs a 3 port solenoid.

  6. Hi have just purchasaed a V4 type R

    It has had a recent rebuild with forged internals and been tuned to run 8psi

    My question is what sort of boost can I run safely ?

    It has

    - 3 inch straight from turbo

    - VF24

    - Walbro pump

    - SAFC

    - Stock everything else

    Any help appreciated , not after big power just a safe level for a bit more power.

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