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Dvnt

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Posts posted by Dvnt

  1.  Rosssub said:

    The should be an unused loom plug (2 pin) at the Gear Box somewhere. Maybe near top of box, near the shifter housing? Bridge both loom plug terminals and your Ignition/ECU thinks your in Park/Neutral.

    The click your hearing could be the accessory relay?

    Edit: Maybe the Inhibitor was already bridged (twisted together) and it\'s just come loose?

    will check it out too tomorrow cheers

  2.  Firenza said:

    Well, the inhibitor switch would of been attached to the transmission under the car, maybe try manually operating the wiring and see if you can fake the signal?

    info on doing this??

    also ill go looking tomorrow but something clicks when i turn thr key to the first click a soleniod maybe thats hidden behind around the left corner of the speedo?? anyone know if it could be related?

  3. The problem is the key is stuck in the ignition and wont come out, its not stuck stuck, its sounds like its reverted back to when the car was an automatic and it wont let me take the key out unless the cars in park etc only of course the cars now a manual......

    any ideas??

  4.  lostnzder said:

    Also on a side note, if it goes together, and is tight to spin, it\'s possible that the smaller copper washer isn\'t seated properly, the one in my kit was tight. I had to give it some tapping with a socket and hammer. Then all was swell from there

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    thanks for the link ive been using that one but it wasnt downloading the page properly so i was missing bits but your link is giving me all of it.

    I had the silver and copper washer around the correct way so still not sure why its still tighening up, , ive tried the socket trick already but still no luck so im stumped

  5.  lostnzder said:

    Vf30 is way diff, rebuilt mine recently. Some parts are the same,but parts 8,5,2 etc don\'t exist on the 30. Not too keen to pull it off again to strip. But yeah as above follow your nose. Unless you live in chch, I can\'t be much more help.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    yeah vf30 a wee bit diff, there\'s 2 washers one silver one copper not sure i have them in the right place, and sadly in dunners bugger it ;D

  6. ok so i stripped down vf30 took pics as i did it, have gone to reassemble several weeks later and pics on the camera got mysteriously been deleted and ive since had to move my work area so its not in any order laid out, ive googled and got info off various sites but some of it is incomplete or doesn\'t show what im after so does someone either have a vf30 sitting around they could strip down and catalogue or a definite parts books that can show how it goes back together?

    ive put it back the way i thought but when i tighten the turbine nut it stops the turbines from spinning.

    Thanks :-[

  7.  evowrx said:

    Dont hit it away from the CHRA if it comes loose on an angle it can clip one side of your turbine. Try bashing it end on to loosen it up. Or hitting it to turn it with the vband loosened slightly so it still holds it in place.

    Heaps of inox and let it sit can also help a lot.

    ok thanks ill give it ago tomorrow

    anyone else??

  8.  rex-leggy said:

    there much better than factory heads.

    bg5a ones have hydraulic lifters which can get noisy . also the cam profile in the v4 heads may match the tune a bit better depending on what ecu your running.

    the factory heads im thinking of putting back on would be out of bd5a legacy, and currently running 1s ecu

  9. Ok so i managed to get my hands on a bg5a wagon and im currently rebuilding a replacement motor for it. It has been converted from twin to single turbo running a vf30 and from what im told v4 sti heads.

    What i would like to know is if im just using this as a day to day car and not planning on racing it etc is there any real benefits of putting the v4 heads back on vs the original heads?? just seems like a waste really

  10. Good work Ray I\'m sure alot of people will benefit from these, only 2 tips 1) safety first use axle stands, 2) this might be covered in the bleeding vid but while under there check the rubber hoses for cracks and check you have enough meat on the rotor itself otherwise pads wont do poo if the rotors to thin or damaged already.

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