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Posts posted by Jono24
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One other thing, holsets aren't water cooled typically (some hx40s are). This will add to your oil temp significantly.
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If you want to keep the top mount you need to read through Boons v7 thread. The engine bay size is similar and i believe it was a tight fit with single scroll.
The hard part about top mount + twin scroll is finding space for the waste gate/s. This may be possible with an efr with integrated gates.
Not to be a downer, but I don't think it will work. I initially intended to try to keep the top mount (I had a very nice hyper flow top mount too) but it was too much hard work.
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Did we ever see a retune of evowrx/furzes car after the valve springs were replaced?Have a chat to Tony at DTech. They’re not huge fans of the HRC turbo’s. They do alright but under perform on Subaru’s compared to other brands where they really shine.
Garrett's and EFR’s are expensive but they behave well.
[mention=14450]Jono24[/mention] has a Holset in his 3rd gen so could get some tips from him for fitment if you do go that route
I thought clint's brothers car was on a gt30 and also made similar power?
I haven't heard of a stock long block of the v7-10 era making anymore than 300kw (in NZ).
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I like that b4!
Makes me want an NA bonnet.
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Headers are the same, vf38 turbos are S***.
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4th gen onwards are twin scroll. Smaller extractors than the sti ones though.
Legacy twin scroll headers are what's on my car.
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Do you happen to know the rough weight of a 96mm piston?
Thats the point of what I'm doing.
With that 2.0 CBD you retain the strength with sleeving, and then convert to dual thrust.
go to 2.2L 96MM sleeve rather than the 2.5 99 (or 99.5 - 100 depending on your route), and hiff in a 2.5L crank.
You get to keep for the most part the RPM's of a smaller 2.0 motor while having some of the torque or the 2.5. It's a good middle ground that not many people in NZ have caught onto yet, and I'm gonna run with it and see how far I can push it.
Closed deck, sleeved and forged internals could see me well.
I've read that the weight of the 99+mm pistons don't play nicely with the cheaper h beam rods (eagle h beam etc) and those engines are more prone to rod failure.
It must all help with engine longevity at the high performance end (lighter pistons being easier on the rods).
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Pretty sure he means boring out a 2.0 CDB and sleeving it, compared to yours being a factory 2.2 cdb.
I've only heard of my car in nz with the closed deck 2.2l stroked to 2.35l which is why I bought it, might be a couple more but never heard of them. I believe the reason you don't see them in nz is because we never got the closed deck 2.2l block either domestically or imported from Japan (aside from a couple of 22b's).
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Vf33 is a primary turbo, vf32 is secondary for 3rd gen rev d models.
Vf33 being the large compressor outlet version which was only on some (manual?) Rev d Legacy models. Other 3rd gen rev d had the vf31 primary turbo.
Vf32 was the secondary turbo, common to all rev d legacy models.
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On 8/01/2019 at 2:02 PM, 95svx said:
Hi! Have the same issue on my 2009 Forester XT. There is a product recall for this issue. https://www.recalls.govt.nz/recall/subaru-forester-impreza-legacy-outback-wrx-model-years-2007-2014 and can melt the pump! I have contacted Armstrong in regards to replacing... waiting to hear back.
Here is the US info https://subaru.oemdtc.com/495/wtm-73-secondary-air-injection-pump-relay-2007-2014-subaru
What does the system do exactly? It helps remove unwanted hydrocarbon emissions, air is injected post combustion for a predetermined amount of time after the engine is started. The system is only operational for a small amount of time post start (the amount of time varies depending on engine temperature, but is typically around 30-60 seconds), and inactive thereafter. It has no effect on engine performance or fuel efficiency it is solely there for emissions control.
Hope this helps!
Cheers
John
Cheers John,
I'll be ringing them tomorrow for my Forester XT.
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Twin scroll fill capacity is pretty much the same as the single scroll but deeper, and hence is better with regards to oil starvation. I.e. Oil level is higher under static conditions.What’s the oil capacity of your engine.Loosing 1 litre of oil out of a oem twin scroll sump could be fatal with hard driving.The car also has to be dead level to correctly check the oil.
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I got curious and found a couple of links, nothing I'd rely on though!
https://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
http://www.southwestairsports.com/ppgtechinfo/top80/hrservicenotes/fueloilspecs/fuelOil.htm
They both suggest a two stroke mix (I assume they are talking 50:1 or 2%) reduces the octane rating by ~2 points.
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Are you still in chch? Do any diving? Hit me up if you do, we have a scuba group in chch.Used the tow bar on the wife’s outback for a change
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See pictures from the brochure below.Any ethanol content?
Sent from my E5823 using TapatalkFirst image above says 'no ethanol content' at the bottom.
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It looks interesting, the brochure says no ethanol content.
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Hi Guys,
I haven't seen this posted up here yet so thought I'd share what a mate showed me. Good news for the south island as a stop gap until we get some ethanol on pump.
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Have a chat to your tuner and ask for previous examples. I believe there must be ~30kW, but if you are not knock limited it may be less.So would i see reasonable gains by going to flex fuel. Even with basic forged ej207, factory intake mani and 3inch exhaust with 850cc injectors and vf30 turbo and v7 tmic in my RA?
Will obviously be running a link to run it all
That example I posted is possibly at the upper end of power outcomes (I.e. All things being perfect), but I still believe there is good power in ethanol generally.
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20 minutes ago, Loren said:
But an uprated fuel system would cost easily as much as a cheap turbo... and then ethanol in a road car is 100% useless.
To get 250kW you'll need a fuel pump and larger injectors either way so no extra cost there, just a function of the horsepower being asked for, same goes for a tune.
Most modern efi hose is ethanol rated, I checked the stuff I got from BNT to be sure. This is minimal cost, and most modern cars have fuel hose suitable for ethanol mixes. The factory rails are fine for this power level.
Continental flex fuel sensor, as used by GM and a lot of other manufacturers ~$200
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/nal-13577394/overview/
Flexfuel converter to plug in a flex fuel sensor into a stock ecu if you don't have a Link ecu:
I'm pretty sure I'm half the price of a TD05...
Don't know why you think ethanol in a road car is useless, if you want to go fast put some ethanol in, if you want more range use petrol. It's not like we hold wide open throttle everywhere we drive. It also means you can have a safe tune for 95 octane and a go fast tune without compromise and don't have to worry about finding 98 to fill up.
The benefits of ethanol are massive, and it is the cheapest dollars per kW you will find all things being equal. I'm keen for you to show me a more cost effective upgrade (I'll do it too, the more cheap kW's the better).
Auckland has E85 on pump in places and you don't have to run much more than E40 to see big benefits (took me from 240kW to 305kW). If there is a few people using ethanol you could chip in and buy a barrel and split it. Down here I can buy 20L from SAS, top up my tank and then enjoy another 65kW at the wheels.
See this post below, V7 sti heads, TS vf36, and a wall of torque.
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You get similar kW on a vf3x turbo with ethanol for less dollars and torque way earlier.
(we all sound like broken records, but bang for buck, a td05 ain't worth it)
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I'm using the valvoline semi-syn in my early 6 speed. I got it second hand and has a notchy 4th gear synchro. The gearbox seems good apart from the one synchro.
However, I am tempted to try the motul gear 300 as it has good reviews for dodgy synchros.
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Start reading about all the crazy oil mixtures that guys in the US use in the early six speeds to prolong the life of the synchros, then re-read Loren's comment above and move on.
I.e.
https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain-11/399408-magic-gearbox-oil.html
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That's roughly what I paid recently for mine from partsouq.partsouq - get them there for about $50 shipped to your door for both sides. Last I checked anyways.
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If it happens strongly during engine braking or reversing I'd suggest checking the rear diff outrigger bushes, and then the bushes between the rear diff and subframe.
It could be the driveshaft centre bearing carrier. These aren't serviceable (afaik) but a replacement from a wrecker shouldn't be too much.
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This is a cool mod if you have the ability (and vf27's are cheap and common):
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Dumb question, how do you identify whether the master cylinder is 1" or 1 1/6"?
I'm curious to know what I have on my be5.
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Who's Online 2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 35 Guests (See full list)
Whats this noise?
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
I have an aluminum pulley on the crank, and I haven't (probably ever) been able to do it up tight enough, when it gets loose it makes a similar sound.
I did some reading trying to diagnose mine and alot of people were saying the tensioners can fail and make this sound.