Jono24

Hey, I'd come along, would be good to meet a few others around chch that have singled their legacy's.

The vf44 is definitely a facelift turbo and on (at least some) autos. I could be wrong on the VF45 but that is what i have gathered from reading bitsy forum threads. I thought the turbo numbers came out sequentially (i.e. a vf45 is released at the same time or after a vf44 or lower number)?

In the post facelift cars there are the VF44 and VF45 turbos. My mate has an auto with the VF44, We believe this is the journal bearing turbo, and the vf45 is a ball bearing turbo. No info on the legacy internals however.

Anyone got any tips on whether to keep the EJ208 heads I got or go to some newer AVCS heads for this build? (I understand avcs needs a capable ecu.) Can someone also give me a quick ranking of the top (approx)5 heads as i hear alot of people talk about v3 heads and I'm curious why these may be better/stronger/simpler?

What does "decked" mean? Cheers,

Hey Hijacka, The CDB is BBBB (block stamps matches the pistons, I checked). I'll PM you on the pistons, any ideas on the value of v7 rods? I'll take the block in to get it cleaned and checked. I've had a price from Mace to check the bores and give it a hone but there is also an engine builder on Hills road (end of Bealey ave) someone at work mentioned, anywhere else in chch you'd ask for a price (or run from?). I read elsewhere that for the 2.5l pistons the B size is smaller than the A size, is this true for the 2.0l pistons? (i.e. i have wiggle room to lose a bit of bore material to run A size pistons) The cam lobes aren't pitted, I gave them a bit of a clean the other night and they came up alright, a little bit more polishing and you'd never know.

Hi Guys, I want to build my own engine and wanted to know a bit more about what it was I was building, hence I created this spreadsheet. The file is an xlsx and zipped: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tlrsznip1eiiu30/Subaru%20EJ20%20Engine%20Calculator%20R0.1.zip?dl=0 (Let me know if the link doesn't work.) The main idea is to store as many known head volumes as possible in the tabs to save looking for them later. (If this has been done excuse my poor googling.) Can anyone provide me with head volumes for any other head models? I will update the spreadsheet and repost a link (I would really appreciate EJ208/EJ206 cylinder head volumes!). Also any details for any other factory shortblock models that I could add, I've included the typical ej205/7/55/57 info I found but if anyone has any unique/rare data I can add that might be useful for others (EJ22/EJ18...) I will include. I am not able to verify the data but will include a reference tab to give an idea of where the info came from. If anyone spots an error just let me know and I'll update. I'm sticking to EJ series with this but the spreadsheet isn't locked so others can perform there own unique engine calcs for a forged build also. At the end of the day I will be happy with some EJ208 head volumes but would like to give something back to this site which has helped me with my Subaru spanner work! Cheers,

Hi Guys, I picked up a CDB EJ20 for 50 bucks a couple of years ago. Just recently I have finished dismantling completely and found one piston has a broken ringland. It is an older cast piston and the engine block cylinder walls look OK. I can't see any scratching other then helical (hone?) marks. Can I just buy a second-hand set of pistons and chuck em in, or do I really need to get it looked at by a machinist/engine builder? Can I fit some newer HF type pistons in? and with or without machine work. I've seen a guy selling a set of 3 CP pistons on TM which look to be 2.1L stroker pistons but are mislabelled, he hasn't gotten back to me on the SKU code to even see if I can buy a 4th piston or for how much. A 2.1L really does appeal, but not at new prices. This will be an learning exercise so I don't want to spend a bucket load and it all go pear shaped because I forgot/missed doing something properly. Some guidance here would be much appreciated. The plan is to fit my twin scroll parts to it so I won't be needing a 600hp build here. Here is the list of parts I have to put together to make my frankenstein to give you a picture to process of what I might need. EJ20 CDB, original crank/rods appear ok, main bearings look good but don't mind replacing these. BE/BH heads - need a skim, there is also surface corrosion on the cam lobes, should i be concerned about this? Twin scroll sump, headers, VF37 turbo BE/BH intake manifold, injector, throttle body ... I'm not against changing some of the internals (i.e. for a phase 2 crank/rods), but not if it's going to cripple my budget. Cheers,

Nice work man, mine is running better now that i have replaced the intake pipe (old wrx one had a split). let me know when you are in chch and we'll have to meet up, I'd love to see your fine work in person.

Did you reuse the tt bov or a different one?

I've carried on here: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?43043-BE5-to-ST-twin-scroll Conversion probably about half way, vac hose and wiring to go (i think)

Have ya got a bracket on that turbo yet?

Thanks, Rosssub and evowrx, unplugged and got a 22mm ring spaneer, sorted. all twin turbo hardware gone, Twin scroll sump and manifold is on, up pipe in, all primary lines blocked. now to figure out how to mount the turbo in the engine bay. Friend helping me was taking the pics, as soon as i get them off him i'll put them up. Thanks for the help so far guys.

I started ripping into it tonight after work. drained down the oil, got intercooler off, most of the manifold bolts off but struggling to undo the turbo bracket bolts on my own (getting help tomorrow). What is the sensor connected to the exhaust manifold on the passengers side right beside the heads? exhaust temp? pressure? O2 sensor? do i need this for my single conversion or can i just cut it? I cant crack it with a cresent and don't have a ring spanner big enough (i'll have another look tomorrow), the cresent is just ****ing it... Cheers,

Hey rosssub, can you comment if we need to change the gearbox cross member for the standard down pipe?

So you are suggesting rewire to reuse the legacy coil on plug rather than the wrx coil pack? If so need for gaskets then!

When going to coil pack from coil on plug, do i need new sparkplug leads? Also do indeed a new inlet manifold gasket or is the old one reusable? Cheers

You sure you don't want to come to chch and help me? You are going to get alot of questions by forum 😂 I just read your bit on the bbod and your troubles and it sounds like what I'm experiencing now with a center decat and sequential controller and a solenoid in the bbod ticking like crazy when boost increases.

http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag364/Jonathan_Selkirk/92d6af7b-a6b5-45cb-b11f-9c1385355312_zps32a13ae6.jpg Been trying to figure out how to post an image but it says my pics are to big (larger than 10 bytes?). Anyway, laid out the parts i have to make a list, looks like a turbo gasket, an up pipe gasket, some vac line, a sump gasket, some jubilee clamps, and nuts and bolts. coolant/oil line on the top of the turbo, my vf37 is missing the pipe, (is this oil or coolant line?) what does this part look like, do you reckon i can scrounge it off one of my twins?

I have a wrx v5 ecu (forget the code). Boost control will be the stock actuator. I'm going to be (trying to) converting while leaving the engine in. I'll be blocking the coolant lines with bolts and jubilee clamps where I can't replace with bolts. I have a v5 wrx intake manifold, nearly complete, are you gonna change to coil pack? I hadn't decided whether to or not yet.

Hey Rosssub, how far away are you from dropping the VF36 in? do you come over to Chch much, i'd be keen to take a look and hear what you have to say about it. I'm thinking I'm pretty much a month away from starting (one more payday, we'll see the credit card may just have to handle it). The secondary bracket looks like it can be made to work from here, 70 pounds on ebay for the proper one doesn't seem worth it. Is SAS suspension and autoparts specialists on Gasson st.?

I'm about to embark on swapping my BE5A to ST with a VF37. I've read Reubens guide a few times (as well as considering not to do it a few times) and I'm finally able to, and have collected 90%+ of the parts I need (need a few bolts, gasket seal, jubilee clamps etc.). Has anyone done a twin scroll conversion before? because the one bit i have not been able to find is a twin scroll turbo bracket. does anyone know if i can cut (hack the crap out of) one of my turbo brackets (for a vf26/27) to bolt the vf37 to and not interfere with the twin scroll up pipe? This is the last bit i need and i am struggling to find it, would a bracket from a vf38 work? (i think they had different flanges to the vf36/37/49) Also anyone in chch a single turbo conversion expert? (i also have no idea where to plumb the vac lines to) could be a few beers in it... cheers

Hey Guys, had a search and couldn\'t find anything on this, can anyone tell me if this is a fixable problem and how (or where to look)? i\'ve pulled the thing out and can\'t see any major burn marks on the pcb but might have missed em. Thanks

Hi guys two questions, 1, is the BP legacy turbo sump the same as a GDB STI twin scroll sump? (i.e. will they both work with these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/other/auction-622355478.htm) 2, Can anyone tell me the CR of a v5/6 wrx (not STI), my searching has been inconclusive (also to be cheeky with AFM does the wrx use stock?) 3, and has anyone heard of running the standard twin turbo ecu with a single turbo conversion? This sounds dumb to me but i got told that if you leave all the extra sensors plugged in just not doing anything it\'ll be fine.... (if this might work i could use my Fcon IS to piggyback and override the fuel and timing) Thanks

I have a Rev A manual and pretty sure the compression is 8.5:1 on Rev A & B, Rev C & D are 9:1 only one i\'m not 100% on is the Rev C