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Rosssub

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Rosssub last won the day on December 24 2017

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  1. Nah the AEM 50-1200 is too big at 124mm, same as the DW200 and Walbro. Should be listed above.
  2. Rev A-C use a 3 wire O2 sensor, mounted in the F/L header. Remove the surrounding heat shields and use a 22mm ring spanner to get the sensor out. About $190 through partsouq.com IIRC, using your chassis number for part finding. Rev D uses a 4 wire AFR sensor (incompatible). https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=10103ab470 The starter signal CEL can be from cranking with a low or flat battery. The CEL pops up if the ECU voltage drops below a certain point while starting/cranking. New knock sensors are under $60 through strongs: Use a 12mm socket with a long exten
  3. The two bushes Loner mentioned are seen below. If the bushes are gone it can cause a solid thump or knock from the back end. Most noticeable at low speeds, taking off or when on and off the gas. The bushes might of been split or perished and jacking the car up made them let go completely. Check the bushes for perishing, or jack the diff slightly to look for splits and cracks under tension. Could also use a block of wood and a long bar to lever the diff upwards forcefully and see if it clunks. More pic's in here showing the front support, diff removed etc:
  4. Most electronic boost controllers don't use a T-piece at all. With an EBC the stock boost solenoid just needs to be plugged in to stop a CEL coming up.
  5. Check for boost leaks/vac leaks. Then stick it into test mode with the green plugs under the dash and clean out the BBOD and primary boost solenoid: Solenoid box cleanout: http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/11043-code-66-and-boost-issueshow-to-clean-them-out/ Primary boost solenoid inside F/L guard:
  6. OEM the outlet/vent hose from the boost solenoid connects to the plastic intake pipe pre turbo. Not the end of the world if it's venting to atmosphere, chances are you're going to need to run aftermarket boost control anyway.
  7. In that pic: Hose #11 - Straight to intake manifold. Hose #15 - To the turbo/WG actuator T piece. Hose #5 -- Bleeding back to the intake pipe
  8. Pic/step # 5 above shows the lower turbo heat shield bolts that need to be removed while under the car. Pic/step #16 shows all heat shields removed to unbolt the downpipe from the turbo. Pic/step #20 shows the DP removed to undo the turbo bolts from above. Only the 14mm uppipe support bracket bolts have a nut on the bottom. That can be accessed with a spanner from above the car, once the heat shields and downpipe have been removed completely:
  9. If in any doubt at all. Always quality work and discounts for CS members. PM Ajay with any questions or for a quote:: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/48694-subirex-automotive-limited/ Whiteline bars through evowrx: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/44326-whiteline-barsalk-northland/ Whiteline 99GF8 22mm adjustable part number BSR20XZ: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BSR20XZ&sq=23369 Whiteline BSR20XZ installation guide: http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/install_guides/Z320.pdf
  10. My BH5B has a clutch switch, tied in with the starter system wiring. I have the my clutch switch bridged so that I can start the car without the clutch depressed. Guessing yours has the same switch that might be playing up, check that the switch isn't loose or broken. Or try bridging it if it keeps playing up.
  11. Added some more info to the OP. Bore wall and stiffener thickness changes through the EJ207: S20C -- 9.6mm Version 7/8 EJ207 T20C --- 9.6mm Version 9 EJ207 W20C - 13.2mm Version 10 EJ207 Version 10 STI block W20C beside the Version 7/8/9 S20C/T20C: Then also some crankshaft differences: 12200AA210 - BE/BH EJ206/EJ208 ---------------- OEM cross drilled crank 12200AA240 - Version 5/6/7 STI EJ207/EJ205 -- OEM cross drilled crank 12200AA270 - Version 8/9 STI EJ207 GDBC ---- OEM double cross drilled and nitrated crank (b
  12. Probably in excess of 350kw at the wheels. There's a few EJ207 crank differences to be aware of too: 12200AA210 - BE/BH EJ206/EJ208 ---------------- OEM cross drilled crank 12200AA240 - Version 5/6/7 STI EJ207/EJ205 -- OEM cross drilled crank 12200AA270 - Version 8/9 STI EJ207 GDBC ---- OEM double cross drilled and nitrated crank (better oiling and hardened - black colouring) 12200AA390 - Version 10 STI EJ207 GRB ------- OEM double cross drilled and nitrated crank (better oiling and hardened - black colouring) JDM Version 5/6/7 STI EJ207 - cross drilled c
  13. If you find a swaybar for your vehicle in whiteline's list, down the bottom of the page it shows other models that the bar will fit: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BSR49Z&sq=23258 For example the 20mm non-adjustable whiteline swaybar p/n BSR49 will fit: BSR49 Vehicle Applications Click on your vehicle below for fitment details. SUBARU FORESTER SH INCL TURBO(9/2008-8/2013) SUBARU FORESTER SJ INCL TURBO(9/2013-ON) SUBARU IMPREZA GE SEDAN, GH HATCH EXCL WRX & STI(9/2007-8/2011) SUBARU IMPREZA GJ SEDA
  14. Are you running an aftermarket venting blow off valve?
  15. This is a merge of posts from my garage thread. Covering my BH5 GTB 5MT centre differential change to a Version 8 WRX centre diff: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/40292-rosssubs-gtb/&page=4 Started ripping the BH centre diff out this evening. After driving at 100kph for a while, then trying a tight turn it's locking up pretty bad. Car jerks forward violently as though all the CV's are stuffed. Also making it under steer easily at any speed when the centre diff's hot/binding. Jacked up and GB oil drained: Driveshaft out:
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