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PhatRS

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Posts posted by PhatRS

  1. Funny there seems to be no set rule on pricing, I paid 1k ish with clic, got quoted $1600 with higher excess from Clubauto and ended up back at NAC when the offered me cover for $800 yet others seem to get the opposite.

    Service was excellent when I spoke to CA however.

  2. If the oxidation keeps coming back Id wetsand and reclear, the more you buff and the harsher the compounds you may need to go to might go through into the weave screwing it for good. Shouldnt cost too much for a couple of layers of clear, a panel beater might be able to whack it in the booth with some other stuff they need to clear to save some time/cost.

  3. Just had a quote from Clubauto and they want nearly $500 more than Clic do and need a valuation done....at my cost no doubt. Time to see what I can screw out of NAC (cant say Id be that happy going back to them) or Insure direct.

    edit: Insure Direct over 2.5 times what I pay with Clic but 1/3 excess gulp

  4. Its only really the ICV that would get in the way and mine is in the standard place, With a standard bonnet I reckon I still reckon it would fit the way I have it set up as my bonnet is lower in the middle, all dependant on the angle the manifold is rewelded at.

    If you just flip the mani round then the ICV would be way too high......tried that. using my old v1-2 manifold I could have fit 30mm+ spacers in no worries but that one was cut and welded really low so the throttle body came straight out not up on an angle......Glen might sell it to you if you want to try it lol

  5. My hot side inter cooler piping goes over the manifold and only just touches, did have to amend the radiator vent tho so the throttle body and cold side pipe didnt hit. My mani is cut and welded so the ICV is still on the rear.

    BTW my bonnet is light years from standard and no longer metal so not a good comparison haha

  6.  Leufkax said:

    I would have bought a 30 buck fibreglass kit and some bog personally..

    And primer and paint and clear and cutting compound and then realised that fibreglass kits stick to plastic lips about as well water to teflon without a lot of pre-work effort, lord knows Ive tried. $200 is a good price and well worth it if the job is solid.

  7. This would have been with coilovers, sway bars and bushes done though not standard mush suspension, no?????

    Id say better things to spend dinero on when your car is near standard, good suspension/sway bars would be well ahead of that brace.

  8. Yeah I never noticed anything with mine to be honest, not that I took it off because of that haha.

    If you have standard suspension and sway bars Id almost guarantee it wont make a bit of difference, all the compliance will be taken up by the suspension and bushes long before the chassis IMO.

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