Tony
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Posts posted by Tony
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On 4/06/2020 at 5:42 PM, Loren said:
Thanks Tony. That guy does a lot of evo stuff!
Yeah he certainly does (I have basically his full range on my car). His Evo bits are very popular all over the world with plenty of time attack teams, and has built up a pretty solid reputation for it.
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Many years ago (when his memory was probably better!) Al told me that was made by Rob at Race Fab
https://www.facebook.com/RaceFab-402451539413/
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1 minute ago, Andy_Mac said:
Ha, you did it... good choice! But yeah, I wouldn't listen to me!!!!!!!!
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@Inked, the whole thing was custom made to suit my car. The above pictured one is V2 which I made when I changed inlet manifolds. I also had a different design tank to suit my old early inlet manifold, which was sold to another clubsub member from Wellington.
I can't take credit for the design, it was originally thought up by Al from Macbilt and used with success on one of the circuit cars he used to run. Since you are Wellington based, it would be worth going to see him about it as I am sure they could fab up something to suit.
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http://manual.motorsport.org.nz/index.php/knowledgebase/36-2-01a-schedule-a-1/#a1-5
Section 5.1 (5) has all the details for catch cans to comply to MSNZ Schedule A.
If you are on sticky tyres and concerned about a lot of oil filling your catch can when at track days, easiest solution is to block off the outside head breather (put a bolt in the hose or something). The engine can still breathe perfectly fine out it's other 2 ports. On Manfeild, Hampton, and Pukekohe block the LH port. at Taupo block the RH port. This will stop the oil that gets held up in the outside head from being blown into the can - it's still stuck in the head though, so still has to make it's way back to the sump, but at least it's still in the engine! Worked for me until I decided to make a better solution (that Pedro now owns).
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On 4/07/2018 at 6:17 PM, Individualities said:
I'd also be curious to know if the E85 that Gull sells at a few stations varies in Ethanol content like it does in America through the seasons.
It certainly does. Have seen it range from 70-83%.
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32 minutes ago, Loren said:
He's has an EVO now. Quite a fast one by the look of it. http://nzsuperlap.co.nz/results/2018-results
Maybe driving Scott Kreyl's car???
Correct. Was Scott's car, now my car. Gone to the dark/light side (whichever way you want to look at it lol). Bit of a learning curve, but a good challenge - currently in the process of a big tidy up.
My Subaru is back in the Manawatu now, and the new owner will be competing at various Manfeild Events
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Yes, you could change your hubs to the Version 9-10 STI 5x114.3 ones, but be aware it is not a cheap exercise unless you can find second hand parts for a good price.
The 5x114.3 front knuckle assembly has a thicker clevis and the hole spacing for the lower shock mounts is different. You either have to use V9-10 front shocks, or have the knuckle machined thinner, and one of the shock mount holes re-drilled to use your existing shocks. Once that's done, just bolt everything on.
You have a couple of options for the rear.... I am not too familiar with the Foresters, but is yours an STI? and if so, does it have the R180 rear diff etc? If you do have an R180 diff, then you should be able to just get a set of V9-10 rear hubs and swap them over with your existing ones. Or, the other option is to use the 5x100 R180 rear hubs, and re-drill them to 5x114.3, and re-fit the studs. They have enough meat in them to be re-drilled, I did this on my old race car and it was fine, BUT, I am guessing your car will have ABS and re-drilling may interfere with the large bolt-on tone rings that I have seen on some of the later rear hubs (my car was a GC8 RA so no ABS etc).
If your car doesn't have an R180 rear end, then you will need to change the rear end to R180 (axles and diff) to make the 5x114 hubs fit your car - just comes down to how much you want to spend, so if that;s out of your budget, the 5x100 to 5x114 adapters would be the far easier/cheaper option (even with a cert).
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2 hours ago, Inked said:
What are you entering Tony?
Mitsi evo.
Will be there on Saturday too, am helping out a couple of our customers with their cars and getting them sorted for superlap on Sunday. I'll keep an eye out for you :-)
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I'm doing Superlap as well... but not in a Subaru.
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2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
@Tony any chance of getting Dave's opinion on it?
I'll show him tomorrow and see what he thinks....
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Matt, just got your email. We shouldn't have a problem, Dave will check to see if he has a definition file for it, and if not, we can get one sent to us from the software supplier - hence the reason I wanted to confirm before you came down as it sometimes take a day or so for them to get back to us. No point coming down and then finding out we didn't have the definition and couldn't get it until the next day! I'll be in touch anyway
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PM'd you :-)
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Let me go through some old emails as I am pretty sure I have his contact from a few years ago.... I'll be in touch if I have any luck.
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2 hours ago, evowrx said:
Almost wonder if the intercoolers decent or not. I get its perrin but normally you get heatsoak when youre not moving/slow speeds.
Could redirect windscreen squirters during session might help? Also helps if the under engine panel is installed.
A lot of those big aftermarket top mounts seem to have the same problem on the track - with repeated laps, continuous WOT, full boost etc they heatsoak to the point they cannot recover and IATs sky rocket. They are so thick, but have a comparatively small surface area so they end up turning into a massive heat-sink. We had this very problem on BT's race car years ago with the PW top mount. Back to backed it with the factory Ver. 8 STI intercooler and the logs proved it worked a lot better. The factory cooler, in this case/application, was actually more efficient than the aftermarket PW one.
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23 minutes ago, BeastGRB said:
6. Link G2 or any other aftermarket ECU Worth it? Another guy was convincing me to get ECU first above all else as he said its plug and play and I would always want more power. If anyone can drop a few pointers wether I should do it or not? RN I say no to it as I don't want more power than 260kW and don't think I'd justify spending 1400-1600 on one? Thoughts?
Just on that point, there is no plug-in ECU for a GRB that costs $1400-1600. Link do not make one for this model Subaru. If you were considering a plug-in ECU, budget at least $3250 +GST (thats for an Emtron. I dont know what the Motec plug-in is worth, but it will be at least the same money, if not more).
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17 minutes ago, dmacnz said:
Subarus running 240 slicks are beating Porsche cup cars with 290+ slicks..... Albeit the Subarus I'm referring too have much more power!
The cup car drivers you speak of must be fairly new/inexperienced or taking easy surely??? Back in the days of the NZ Porsche GT3 Championship the older cup cars (996-997) were doing lap times around NZ tracks that most Subarus would struggle to match these days (there are 3 Subaru circuit cars I know of that lapped close to those times - all 3 had VERY good drivers, and yes, more HP than a cup car).
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Yeah Eddie is up here in Tauranga now. Sorry I don't know anything about the new owners of Elite, however I think Mo/Lasersooby still takes his car there for servicing?
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Nah I haven't broken any axles for many years now. I only broke my front axles once (both at the same time!)... that was with a 7000rpm side-step launch on warm slicks! I wont do that again!!!!!
Yeah the V7-8 ones are massive, then they go smaller again in the later model ones from memory (GR/GV)
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GC axles will fit them. Most of that stuff is compatible through the versions (I am still using GC front axles in V9-10 front hubs).
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Engine: Motul 300v 15w50
Gearbox & Rear Diff: Motul FF LSD Type 2 75w90
Brakes: Castrol SRF
Why: I was recommended 300v for the engine many years ago by an original member of Clubsub - have always stuck with it since then. Plus my boss swears by it, and with his involvement with engine building/tuning in various forms of motorsport over the years (and dealing with Subarus) this further backs up my original recommendation.
Used Motul gear oils since I was using the engine oil already and it is apparently kinder on the synchros than the Redline LW shockproof I was using previously.
Castrol for the brake fluid as I haven't had much success with the Motul RBF fluid :-/ (I am pretty hard on brakes though).
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2 hours ago, Munkvy said:
@Tony might be able to provide some insight on what he has seen on the dyno?
Will try and remember to have a look tomorrow then let you know...
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9 hours ago, snwmbl said:
Taupo track 1 - 1.38.2
Nice one Michael
How did you enjoy racing in GTRNZ?
Oh, and if this thread is still being updated..
Manfeild: 1.11.36 June 2016 (FAEWRS Round 1)
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Yeah sorry, bad wording on my part in the original post! Will try grab a pic tonight to show exactly what I did...
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Wayne Huxford Macbilt 22b replica
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
As far as I am aware, the rear subframe was made by Macbilt. From memory, the front subframe is/was a modified standard one (pick-up points changed) - I have some photos somewhere from about 8-9 years ago I can dig out if you like?