Marky
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Posts posted by Marky
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Very loudest is a short straight pipe
Longer the pipe is the more it starts to quiet things down, that big empty hollow resonator after the main cat also tones noise down a bit too even though it's just a hollow tub thing.
Just any old cannon muffler will do, if it's too quiet remove the baffles. The normal RPS/rage/whatever ones are plenty loud enough. On a subaru you can almost get away with no muffler at all, hell - half the cannon mufflers people run they may as well not have bothered with anything anyway.
Then for super noise vent the secondary downpipe and seal off the Y pipe, it's like an external cuz
Rule of thumb - cheaper and nastier the muffler, the louder it will be / the worse a job it will be doing of "muffling" anything.
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They are a part which wears over time- copper is the best you'll get for "performance" as it conducts better than iridium/whateronium they use in the big dollar plugs.
It makes sense to use them for the average person - why get something you need to replace every 25thou when these will last 100?
To be blunt its a bit of a marketing win - the internet thinks iridium will give you more power - it won't, it can't, a spark is a spark - and I believe they get effed up a bit using avgas etc (bit more touchy) where copper won't. BUT the marketing is correct in that they'll last longer, and for 99% of users that's the main thing. I'm in the habit of whipping plugs out to check condition with every oil change / bored sunday etc anyway so quite happy to just replace them each time if they need it, but for Mavis who doesn't even know where the bonnet catch is it's a slightly different scenario.
Same theory as the long-life lightbulbs I suppose? I'm a cheap bastard who can't cope with $30 a bulb, even though I know it'll be cheaper in the long run - it's easier to swallow $5 once a year or so.
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^^ As above
Iridiums only make sense if you're paying a mechanic to be changing the plugs, copper will do the job 100% perfectly at a fraction of the cost
Example - a lot of mitsi V6's get recommended iridiums in rear, copper in front - sicne the front bank is a 30 sec job to change vs 2 hrs for the rear
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Money better spent maybe newish low kms long block, spend money on making it safer / single turbo (just bung a complete sti motor in turbo and all?) - make more power on less boost with less to go wrong
Another thing to consider is with a B4 going for 5-8k these days you'll never, ever see this cash back on a rebuild... is it really worth it?
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Got the mobile guard rolling dude to come out - I can't rate him highly enough. www.guardroll.com
$160 for all four with a "never scrub again" guarantee - took him like 3 hrs in my driveway so not a bad hourly rate either. He said if I get anything more - even in a couple months or whatever - he'll come back and sort it for free.
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Buy a cheap hilux or falcodore, haha
I've towed a few cars on trailers with my BH's - heaviest was a VR4 which prob weighed more than the legacy and it wasn't too enjoyable.
Legal - no. Do-able, yes, but there's no hills down my way.
My boss used a manual legnum for towing his racecar for ages (pretty heavy), had a few too many "moments" and it ate clutches with it so flicked it for a 4x4 with the capacity for it and never looked back.
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Got guards rolled, very exciting, no more cringing with every bump in the road
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Thorpys facelift GTB loved 22psi a few years back
Think it lasted about 2 weeks wasn't it? Haha
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You mean me or greaver being a big unit? Haha.
I just got the guards rolled today with the adjusties in, fits 225/40/18's - but it's like --><-- that much clearance still.
If he wants my ones (someone bid on them before I remembered he'd grab them) just bid on em on TM and I'll work something out with the shipping, might just try and get them off the struts to save shipping a set of half munted shocks up the country.
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Here's the jamex ones - http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/suspension-braces/auction-511223571.htm
To be honest the ones I have (eibach) wouldn't be much of a drop on your car by the looks of things, I wouldn't feel happy flicking them to you saying oh you'll be sweet - better off getting some lower ones I reckon, if you're going to do it do it a decent degree.
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I reckon it looks better with the silver ones on a white car than black anyway (the side indicators) - if it was a dark coloured car then sure thing
That said I have no style sense according to the wife anyway
Wheel spacers - that is exactly what they do, they're also illegal to use on the road (I think?) - pushing the wheels out is a matter of taste I guess, I hate the whole "stanced out" wheels sticking out the guards look, from the photo you've put up it'd look a bit odd pushing them out more. That said... personal preference there I guess. Just buy wider wheels.
Reflash - ask NZEFI - I know they have the software to do it and have done it before, no idea if they're selling it as such though.
In other news I saw your legnum around a bit, really liked it, legacy looks nice too
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That's an impressive drop!
Today I managed to put in new suspension, looks much, much better and corners flat as a pancake. A large blue pancake but... anyway
Before:
After:
Sitting at about 105mm or so, time for a cert. Pretty firm - doesn't agree with chch roads so good but given the jandal it's a much different car to before.
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I thought I'd contribute something useful - someone might find it handy
Before picture - this is on factory shocks, and Eibach springs. Shocks were buggered so took the opportunity to upgrade to some adjustable coilovers. I have no idea what brand these ones are - they aren't D2's but who knows, they work and I got them for an absolute steal. Car already has cusco swaybars front and rear (23 and 21mm or so?) and I don't like the wheels much either
So to do this, you'll need sockets & spanners - 12, 14 and 19mm.
Step one - crack the wheel nuts before you jack it up, then get the wheel / s off - no harm if you do just one side at a time (some cars the swaybars make the job hard if you do).
Step two - Undo the two 12mm bolts holding the brake hose and ABS wiring to the strut on either side. Then remove these two bolts attaching the strut to the hub - 19mm ratchet on one end, spanner on the other - they are very tight so make sure you don't round either of them off. I ended up using a pipe to add some leverage to my ratchet, cracked them off, easy done, the hub will now swing away from the strut.
Step three - undo the three 12mm bolts on the top of the strut tower, watch it fall 3 inches and get itself stuck in amoungst all the front hub assembly. Swear a bit, and monkey it out of there. Go you, you've just removed one corner, repeat this in reverse to install new strut, don't forget the brake lines and they are different for drivers / passengers side.
Step four - remove just the back panel of the boot floor to get access to the two 14mm strut bolts - nothing complicated, it just unclips. Does no harm to just undo both sides now.
Step five - Similar to the front, crack the bastard 19mm bolt holding the strut to the hub (leverage or hammer handy again) - mine refused to pop out nicely when pulling the bolt through, even when coerced, ended up having to just wind it out, didn't do any damage - just had me frustrated. Now watch in wonder as it falls on your foot, luckily you had your safety jandals on.
Step six - Putting the new strut in is slightly easier with a friend helping to do up the top two bolts for you, if not just use a jack (there's a sissor jack in the boot remember...) to compress the strut a little and hold it in place, as mine hung slightly longer than the hub drooped to, just lifted it a bit to the point the back bolt slid in. Do up the big bastard bolt at the bottom and the two at the top, and you're finished.
Voila, you have now saved yourself a few hundy in labour and replaced your own suspension. This took me 2 hours with literally one arm - my right arm is broken at the moment so couldn't use it for anything much. Also painted over the red paint someone had done the brakes in, been meaning to do that for ages.
Now go make sure you get a wheel alignment - it might drive straight but better safe than sorry, and take the extra couple minutes to double check everything is nice and toight.
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The comp surge isn't really an issue with a B4, the stock valve is ultimately the best but then you don't get wooshy noises either haha. Whatever floats your boat.
I've got one of those turboxs RFL valves on my one - drives 100% perfectly fine, you can get adaptors to suit for about $40 from a few places - they put the valve up over the passengers side turbo so size isn't to worry about.
As for the pod filter thing - you'll likely go backwards in power, you can get a bit of extra noise by just removing the resonator / snorkel thing from inside the drivers' side front guard. It's not the pod itself that nukes airflow sensors, it's the oil they normally come soaked in - coats the AFM sensor and kills them.
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Dont these have a secondary MAP sensor?
If so, I'd look there - the car won't "know" if you have the solenoid in use as such (unless it's missing outright)
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I've preloaded maps for chch and wgtn - something like 30mb for the lot so nothing too strenuous. To activate the app though it will have to have a data connection at the time (won't it?) or it has no way to tell you where it is or that you want to find it (I guess)
New dumb question: LVV Certs - I remember a mate getting one ages back he had to go in with a failed WOF sheet first, then it passes cert, then it goes to now pass aforementioned WOF
Is this actually the case - I got a WOF last week and now have some adjustable struts to put in which I'll get certed asap - is there anything else I should know about at the same time? Not planning on doing anything more with the car
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Holy jebus man, if i took a car to get something fixed and they broke an axle I'd be getting the MTA onto it if nothing else
What needs fixing? There's a grillion *good* mechanics around - just you sometimes could take it to the best workshop for miles and their work experience parts getting monkey gives it a bootful when nobody can see him.
I remember years back I got mag & chuuurbro to put some springs in an old VR4 - got a text from a workmate he busted me racing up moorhouse - nope, nope I'm currently having lunch in town waiting for my car to get finished... meet me at M&T please
I'm guessing somebody got at minimum a formal warning and I got free sh!t haha
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Chances are they have barely moved or driven it - probably sat @ panelbeaters the whole time. Maybe try a reset before anything - could be trans ecu having a sad about something random after sitting so long? (Just grasping at staws here) - pretty hard to prove if they did "break" the trans in the process.
Did you note km's before & after you dropped it to them?
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Passed it's pre-adjustables install / need a cert WOF, 0 faults woo
Also - reply number 10,000 woo
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Hey,
Anyone got anywhere they'd strongly recommend or tell me its a bad idea to go to in Chch? Has been a while since I got one done.
Currently have broken arm and rooted (other) shoulder so will likely get them to install adjusties for me too if I don't get them in myself beforehand... one armed :-\
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So basically
Doing exactly this?
Sorry its just a screenshot, Ill grab the other pics later
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There's a heap of in depth explanations online, there's probably one on here too actually
Short version: Below 3500ish - primary only, secondary is shut off through both exhaust (ECV, the massive big copper looking thing by drivers side turbo) and intake (a valve under the intercooler on drivers side)
When it starts to switch - the exhaust valve starts to open, the intercooler valve stays shut, and the pressure is vented straight back into the intake through that BOV looking thing - this is the dip you feel as it's spooling the second turbo up but not doing anything with it
Then exhaust valve is opened fully, the intercooler valve opens up, and the recirc is closed off - it's now running both turbos at once, hence why the exhaust note changes and things ramp up all over again
Primary turbo is running the whole time
That's pretty much all there is too it. The changeover will vary depending on throttle position - half throttle it waits ages, and if you change too early and keep foot flat you will find that nice dead spot where it doesn't bother switching back to primary only - stays on both and tries to spool them up.
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I've just gotten some adjustables for mine - the current lowered springs in it drop it to about 1 finger between guard & tyre? Like lower than stock but not ridiculous bogan spec
Would prob sell them off once I get wof'd then certed?
I asked this a while back - BG won't fit, BP rears do though, fronts I think are pretty generic with most subarus - to be honest you're almost better off just paying the $300 most places ask for brand new springs anyway
Also check subaruspeed.co.nz, they had a half a dozen different struts with low springs last time I looked
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what are some easy/cheapish performance upgrades for a flat 6?
in Legacy & Outback
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Edaboc stickers: the fusion sticker for a new generation