speedfreak
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Posts posted by speedfreak
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have the old set off rally car, nothing wrong just didnt fit my new sump, stainless steal 4-1 colector and up pipe, can put a pic up if interested
and im in chch
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hey guys,
looking at the later stages of my engine rebuilt at the moment, just looking for a guage set, what are your guys thoughts on gauges? stepper or manual?
are going in a rally car so need to take a bit of a beating
looking at the below set
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=463074034
let me know your thoughts, suggestions and what you have had experience with
Cheers
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have you looked for a C clip, i know there is a groove for one, cant remember if mine had one or not.
also check the thread on the gearknob, when i brought one of these the threads were different
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how to you make it then haha and where do you buy ethanol ?
E85 you can buy by the barrel, some on trademe if you look, but VERY hard on engines, but lots of power. one of the rally NZ boys runs E85, was telling me good for an extra 85 HP over av gas. also replaces the turbo for every rally and engine reuild every 2 rallys. power = stress = money
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My rally car runs on AV gas, tuned with possum link, went(and will go) like a rocket
Rally car so as far as i know it all good to run on the road, authority card etc etc.... not allowed in a standard road car but schedule A car is OK
no O2 sensor
did a big end bearing but dont think it had anything to do with the fuel, more the rallycar ness. although as with anything more power = more stress etc etc
wouldnt suggest just chucking a tank in, used to do it on the old derby cars, doesnt make enough difference without the motor to match and tuning, just chuck 98 with octane boost if you want better octane rating. but even then octane wont make more power without supporting mods and tuning
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alloy i assume? yeah he has a cold tank that could do those, but soda blasting might be the way to go as well, ill ask
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what are you stripping and whats it made of? got a mate that works for a engine rebuilders that could prob do for a cashy
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Thanks man, much appriciated
short term they will work better, and dont have any issues with the heads themselves
Cheers
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$250 is a good score for shim under either way ..... almost to good id get them checked out to make sure there not soft. also for the price rebuild them because of coming of a beb engine .
if they were advertised as v3/4 they would've been snapped up ages ago by me
yep will be rebuilding them, need a collet and 2 shims but engine rebuilder deals with a guy that has some spares so didnt seem to think it would be an issue, just go steal some off him
will meantion about the softness, they have a softness tester there so might as well check
yeah short term/build time/cost its easier and quicker, just had in my head id be going to v5's so kinda annoying when it isnt. but anyway i have them now, they are shim under which is the main thing with revvy engine, i have a restrictor so not going for massive power so all good
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yeah they were, bolt pattern was strait accross not offset like another set on here that is v5.
makes the install easier, but annoying cause they were sold as v5 heads, luckily i hadnt brought any manifolds etc till i saw them so is ok.
i imagine they are v3/4 heads, still shim under bucket which is the main thing i wanted for the reving, will give them a tickle to knock the edges off while we are rebuilding them
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and after all the fantastic advice from club sub, the heads that were sold to me as v5 arent v5 heads! manifold will bolt striat on. not as good as v5, but much less drama on the install.
thanks to all that offered advice
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even those adadtors need a manifold to be extended, would be better if they were angled so it bolted strait on
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they do bolt straight on, not sure what your on about with needing to extend the manifold??
off the link to the website you posted;
IMPORTANT: Due to differences in cylinder head design the Phase 1 or Phase 1.5 inlet manifold used will need to be cut and extended by around 12-14mm prior to fitting (see picture 4).
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I currently have a 96 prado 3L diesel. paid 8 grand.
comfy as, rides good on the road, hardy even know the subaru is on the back with the trailer, tons of grunt up the hills, bigger inside than a surf and nicer seating position. not great off boost so dont by the manual one, but the auto tows real good and on boost by 2grand which auto is tuned for so all good
ecomony in real world, i havent done a tank without towing a car at some point economy is about 13L/100km. be better if i didnt use as much right foot but meh.
wont be as fast as petrol, but thats why you have a tow car and a race car after all. and petrol take a bigger hit when towing economy wise than diesel does(my commodore was very thirsty when i towed with that)
or as i had before, 89 swb bighorn, 10L/100km no matter what your doing, town, open roads or towing, slow as a wet week but sat on the road good for towing. paid like 2 grand 5 years ago and just got rid of it, got every dollars worth, lots of maintaince required but good truck.
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Ahhh so if i can make the rails bolt to the manifold the difference is at the rail to injector sizing, not the injector to manifold size. thats fine as the ones there are the split rail setup anyway. i have a set of rails from the early ones as well so sure i can mix and match to suit
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Ohk if it has a 96 engine in it then yeah coils will be single bolt. Yep 2 different types of subaru yellow injectors and correct they will not fit in eachothers rails due to physical size difference and the early rails dont bolt to the V5/6 mani from memory ither.
If you want no IACV then yeah as I said doable (obviously if its a rally car your running a possum link atleast) and just make an adaptor for throttle body and throttle cable + your turbo intake setup (if not twisted already).
Im running a possum link, think its the V4 possum, has serial cable but not antilag,
turbo will be twisted, not currently, and have changed from Water to air too air to air intercooler so i have a bit of mucking round with intake pipe and connections to do anyway
if i knotch the idle up just a touch it will compensate for the idle, and once its warm most of time will be racing/driving, shouldnt ever be in traffic so all good
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Idle at startup wont be problem, rally car so always be warmed up properly and i can sit in it till temps start to move, and can just wind a touch more idle on if needed.
even those adadtors need a manifold to be extended, would be better if they were angled so it bolted strait on
im sure i can sort an adaptor out for the throttle body shouldnt be too hard, where im building the motor is a fitter and turners workshop so if we cant build it there you cant build it anywhere...
so the phyiscal size of the injector changes? i already have yellow injectors on current one(which i was told was a 96 WRX motor) your saying these wont suit?
im fairly sure the coils are single bolt already - can post pics of coils and current manifold/injectors if that helps?
Thanks heaps again, i know im asking questions against the advise, and if i can find a set of v4/3 ill get those but the v5's are the onlys ones i seem to be able to get at the moment.
ill do a thread up when(if) i convert them so no one else has to ask
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yes i know the v3 heads bolt on, i cant find any and im getting close to needed the heads, how hard is it? can i run current loom is the main thing i guess? i know i need a new manifold etc, but can i mix and match to make it work?
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Hey guys, think soopersubaru has the heads i want, just wondering what i need to look for when im putting them into the RS legacy?
its a closed deck block, and they are v5 shim under bucket heads
currently i run the over plug coils and what im assuming is the original wiring loom
might have to modify the throttle body or similar.
know i have to go to a V5/6 intake manifold, but unsure on the rest?
Can i get away with current loom(that would be ideal)?
will exhaust fit(OEM legacy turbo)?
will coils fit?
will injectors fit(yellow tops)
etc etc
has anyone done this before and whats the best way to approach?
thanks in advance guys, its been awesome being able to learn so much so quickly with the forum, hopefully soon it will be threads about the racing rather than the building
Cheers
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Can recommend firestone papanui - mate works there, real into old school cars, but does alignments on rally cars etc, just tell em what you want and he will set it for you.
pretty good at giving options as well, eg do you want cheap, cheap good or good?
and if you tell him you want the tyres,you get the tyres.
if you keen go in and ask for Chris
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Model : 1998 WRX STI RA
mods : Caged, well, a race car
insurance company : Classic Car
how much/year and type: $330ish/year, full cover, $30K agreed value, specified mods, 5,000km year limit.
/quote]
Jeepers that's a good deal. Are they just called classic cars?
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I need new headers. What to buy?
in General Vehicle Discussion
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no didnt make it out, was hoping too but engine building at the moment and getting ready for partners racing as well(she races at speedway) pretty much killed the whole weekend
will get pics tonight, they look ok, changed colour with heat but not sure how to tell if any good, seam fine and were ok when i removed them, would have put them back on if not for sump