QBALLZ

+1 Nandos

probably not matey, got a road trip to WGN that weekend, but i do plan on getting more involed with club days when i can. Especially the cruises etc. Wana start enjoying the fruits of the labour. Yeah i do like the VF39 stats, heard some guys make some solid numbers from them.

What turbo u running What mods Sounds like a nice project u got going there bro cheers I'm running a MSE VF30 so far it's got all the bolt on gear apart from split fuel rails, intake form turbo is all done, exhaust is all done form the turbo and to the turbo (non twisted), the computer is getting sorted along with a tune to bring it all together. It is a cool project, learn't alot along the way and still alot more to learn. I cut my teeth into Mitsi Evo's so it's good to be learning from the other corner for a change. Once this side of things is sorted i'm just going to drive it for awhile as it's getting to the limit of what i want to drive around on the streets (Police/speed etc). Next stop will be a hill climb/Auto x set up ;D

nah i can' t they're at the workshop. If you look at a set of 04-06 ones you will see the tabs im referring to. they straddle the housing where the injector goes. The ones i needed were without the tabs and the tabs were preventing the injector from seating far enough down into the manifold. Trick for new players, or those like myself that didn't quite do all there homework

some aftermarket parts required some modification to fit to OEM. i brought some 650cc SARD injectors and find out they are a little longer then the OEM injectors we just made adaptor/spacers for it to fit... was also told it was direct fit... there are some people out there that rely on the internet as a reference to their parts and believe in it /quote Yeah this was a def face in palm moment, but as im sure most of out there who try to do 90% of the work/sourcing parts have found out-is that at some stage your going to get something wrong, and this was mine. I will know tomorrow how it went with the problem and be sure to let everyone know.

ok so i have told my tuner to modify the injector body by removing the tabs. The tabs are on the later model injector and are what the injector sits on in the manifold body-kind of suspending it in the manifold. I will let ya know how it goes :-\

Crap, i never knew that. But oh well i got them now and need to get them fitting. Any one heard of the elusive tabs around the body of this type of injector???? I have had a look on the net now and the only ones with the tabs that i can see are for the 04-06 wrx.

No sorry guys i should have mentioned these are brand new Nippon Denso injectors i bought from NZ Injection.

Sorry matey i can't i'm in Otahuhu and the work shop is in Drury. Have you heard of differing types between models Ver 7??? We went with the 650 to give us some head room with further tuning.

I bought some 650cc injectors but they are slightly different in the body than my stock ones. :-[ I have a 01 ver7 wrx motor. the new injectors have a different style of body-still round but have a tab that sticks from the body. Has anybody experience with this type. I bought them off NZ Injection and was told they would fit but don't and know we are having trouble finding a replacement in nz. FUDGE!!! Firstly can we remove the tab-as they will fit with this removed, or is it a cheaper option to change the tumbler valve body???? Any help would be appreciated please as i really dont want to fork out on another set of injectors!!! HEEEELLLLPPP!!!!

spent saturday fixing a water leak off the turbo, but then found i had a split cv boot that had spat oil all over the down pipe! Re-bled the clutch after having weird issues with it taking up on take off. Adjusted spring rate on the front set also. Cleaned it Sunday and then wen'tr for a roll around the bay and up over the shore. Tomorrow he is off to get the G4 installed and a tune by Hitech Motorsport. Will post up the results (if they are worth showing LOL) if everything goes well:)

Yesterday i had a go at doing my clutch and flywheel replacement. After many hours trawling through threads i found all the info i need ed to pull it off without getting stuck, also gave me some insight into a couple things i'd never come across when i've done other makes ie; pins that hold the cv on to the gearbox, pivot pin removal etc. I managed to get everything sorted although with only a couple of hiccups, one being forgetting the clutch fork until the box was nearly bolted up : I KNOW I KNOW- school yard mistake but i did it ;D Anyway i've gone with a 5kg chromo flywheel, and a sprung 6 puck with a sprinkling of extra clamping pressure for good measure. I found the exercise alot easier than some other vehicles i've worked on, although doing the homework first was a big factor here. The original clutch and flywheel was still in reasonable nick with the machining marks still visible on the flywheel and a resonable amount of friction material still on the plate. Anyway once the box was tightened (2nd time) i put the slave cylinder on and gave it a test-flop straight to the firewall with a clink :-\ Now from what i can gather i may have over extended the slave cylinder, as i first thought i had blown a clutch line but no fluid leak anywhere, i then thought blown seal from one of the cylinders-no leak anywhere and i hadn't lost any fluid hence the over-extention theory. After trawling through threads i found that i might need to adjust the m/cyl under the dash???? I first tried to bleed the system on my own but never really got better than a half pedal so i will be calling my GF in to be my B%^& (usually the other way round :) and i'll do it properly. Hmmmm maybe i should've researched this situation also............... Anyway hopefully i will get it sorted today as i will be shipping RED off to get a LINK, and a tune next week, i want a weeks grace to iron any probs out with all the new bolt-ons. I will post my progress tonight ;D

sounds a tad low, but good on you dude. Get some head work done with the right cams for your style and you will have a good set up.

the best way I've seen large turbos mounted on a scoob was east by west in place of the top mont and the air filter right under the scoop. The down pipe still goes down the same side and the turbo stays flat, intake is short and gets cold air.

>:(we pulled the peugot motor out due to a suspected spun bearing-what a friggn mare! And for a little 1.6 it weighs a dam $^%^*& load!! Looking over at my poor red-sigh!

Did you use a mirror? They are tucked well in there. are they inside the banjo bolt, coz i've taken the whole line off and nothing . OR are they in the oil 'gallery' that the banjo bolt goes into??

yeah id say there would be some movement at cranking, hence why I sshould've primed mine more maybe. Can too much oil blow the bearings out? I've heard that oil can get squeezed through from too much oil and using oil restricters in the feed line.

Dam work won't let me into trade me!! Will have a look at home. Nah not alot of trouble really, if this was repeated i can imagine there would a slight change but braking isn't too bad but just the 'repeated' applications that im concerned with. Brake fluid is dot 4 (dot 3 standard)

If the turbo is new and has no oil in it at all, at the point of ignition it will run dry. According to a number of people/sites it only takes seconds of running dry to cause bearing damage and reason for a premature failure. Cranking it will bring up oil pressure, dont think it will spin the turbo though as you say no exhaust gas-could be wrong though :-\

sweet mine doesn't have one!! Phew!

Im looking at upgrading my set-2001 ver7 buggy. Im happy to stay with the Subaru 4pot set up but would like to go with slotted and vented all round. I do some "spirited driving" and do like the look of the zoenelli. Has anyone else used them with good results?? Pad wise im also looking at suggestions as i am looking for upgrading to a semi track/road option. I've used EBC's in other cars with good results.

CLEANED MY OIL FEED OUT LASTNIGHT, HAD A LOOK FOR THE SMALL FILTER THAT IS SUPPOSED TO BLOCK UP??

dam! I should've used that! ;D I had done a oil change that day too, so it would've run the bearing dry before pressure had built up enough to flow oil to the turbo's bearing-fudge! I hate learning the hard way! :

Yeah i ran some clean oil through it and gently turned the wheels. Maybe not enough?? The gunk coming out the back was sticky like road tar weird! Was smoking like blown seal but not too badly- i thought at first it was a valve guide seal!!

I have just pulled my vf30 turbo off after it s&%$ itself after less than 100km. After doing some research on here i am thinking oil-starvation. The turbo was brand new-rebulit unturned!! I checked the banjo bolt and it ewas the same as the one on my td04. I will try get some pics up...the oil is sticky though, not like the 'usual' blown seal mess. It's my first Subby turbo upgrade and i think i've ballsed it up :'(