joshhorn16

thanks for your opinions joker but please return yourself to the peanut gallery. Solution was to check and clean earths (fixed dash lights staying on) change crank sensor car started.

unplug the sensors 1 by one replacing them once you have eliminated them on the loom under the manifold

further progression was it wasnt the knock sensor it was something else but in the process it had blowen the crank sensor so chucked a new one in and what do you know motor sparked coughed got my hopes up and then jump straight back to square one. so too find a new sensor.

righto i fix the dash lights and fuel pump priming issue. it was the knock sensor in the end . . . but i still have the problem of no spark and i cant get the obd2 to connect to the ecu but that could always just be a faulty obd2

Just finished all my the work required to get my car back up and running again and now i am struck with the problem of the car not starting (it cranks over) there is no spark at all also when i remove the key alll the dash lights stay on and i can operate the electrics excluding the radio. the things i have done to find the problem is try two other ecus as well as plug in an obd2 cable which only lights up but doesnt work when the key is removed. any ideas ??

warrant people are having a bitch about the hand brake light lol

Does anyone know the bulb for the dashlights like where i can get some colorful ones

the locking pin and the locating pins on the side are different

I had them confused with magnetic-plunger solenoids instead of solid iron plunger solenoids that induce reversing north and south poles, so always try to pull the plunger inwards irrespective of current direction. yeap i will be running a link setup and yeap polarity doesnt matter

so you are saying aslong the two injector wires are connected to the two old injector wires (any way round) it will work ?

Big thanks to @subirex for his help today on such short notice. The man deserves a Gold star

Hi All, I\'m on an absolute tangent to get my car running as sweet as possible. I have had a GDB Sti Intake Injectors and loom sitting in my garage glaring at me every single day so i decided to take the leap with all these other mods i am doing and that is to attach this GDB sti manifold, injectors and coil pack to my Ver 5 Wrx. So far i have nearly completed the coil on plug conversion (high FIVE) but now im stuck as to how to go about the wiring for the injectors as the plugs for the side feed and the plugs for the top feed are different. Please can someone shed some light as to how i should go about wiring the correct plugs to my current loom as i currently dont know the wiring colours for the injectors ? Cheers Josh

http://www.linkecu.com/forums

Got a new block stripped it to short block waiting on a mate to remove Crank shaft pulley. Removed the pistons. Got new Bearings. Fabricated a ver7 STi intake manifold and injectors to fit the old throttle body. Striped the motor that is currently in the car to a long block. Pulled seats and carpet out the car. Round 2 today i guess.

Hey there. Is it possible to tell me what my Link ECU is capable of in terms of Anti Lag, Launch, Running the newer Subaru injectors Running water sprayers all that stuff ? Number on board = 957 Chip Id = WRX99R = 775 = 291102 Much appreciated Josh

what if i told you that the motor is in short block fashion already

I think im starting to sound like i have alot of bad luck getting stuck with these sh1t problems but does anyone know how to remove a Crank Pulley with a bolt that is stuck Much Thanking Josh

Hey all does anyone know how on earth to remove the bloody factory oil cooler i need to move it to a new motor. The silly bugga who sold me the motor took it off -.-

i think i got quoted $180 a set of ACL with rear thrust

In all honesty i have 2 motors on the go at the moment both virgin motors unmodified and what not. one i will be building using alot of high quality stuff i.e: argo, cp, garret, kelford, billet blah blah blah the other one is just being built to go into my wagon to get me round. the first motor im chucking in oems but the runaround i dont want to go hard hauling so thats why i thought of maybe giving acl a go.

just for a standard run of the mill STI rebuild nothing to make standard power Ver 5 Sti if that helps

sorry in the mean time I chucked the shitty 20psi unturned back in on 7psi lasted all of about 4 min lol. didn\'t cost me anything so that\'s ok

just got back from overseas and im ripping into in now. will post pics. Not a pretty site

yup . . .

well the verdict is its all fucked lol