Treecrusher

Yea, don't think it is detonation because it isn't rev specific, but depends on boost and only part boost. As soon as I nail it the noise goes away. All the heat shield has been taken off so it can't be that As for moving the BOV, everything is factory (apart from exhaust) so where wold I move it to?

Hey all, Ever since I bought my v5 wrx it has had this noise that sounds like a little hammer is tapping the exhaust very quickly. The noise happens on partial boost and stops once it hits full boost. From what I can gather it is the waste gate vibrating against the turbo housing when it is partially open. Caused by the lack of back pressure because the cat has been removed. Does this sound correct? Some forums say to add some pre-load to the waste gate by shortening the actuator arm, but will this cause boost spike? Has anyone have/had this issue and/or have any other ideas to fix it? Cheers,

How can you tell what type of diff is? I have this one for sale:

Me to! I looked into it a while ago. Had a look at an auto legacy that was being wrecked. Was trying to get all components that were needed, then install them on my manual. But it required changing the main loom under the dash, so didn't go ahead with it. You can buy aftermarket kits but the ones I found were like $1000. I am interested to find out how you get on.

Yes to 260km speedo. No to previous owner changing them. I bought the car effectively factory. Since then I have upgraded most of the suspension and braking to sti. (I like the reliability of non sti but want the handling and stopping power) I think what you will find is 4 pot brakes would have been offered as an option when purchasing the car new. They may have been offered and a significant discount which meant that most NZ new v5 wrx's came with 4 pots. But that is still different from all v5's coming with them as factory. Probably very similar to passenger air bag. Mine has one, and I could go to say that all NZ new v5 come with a passengers airbag. But they don't, it was a factory option .

And what the hell have they done with that new site. Any screen newer than about 3 years has stupid white stripes down the side. My 24" wide screen has white stripes larger that the site itself. Not impressed.

Sure it wasnt bought in new from japan and labelled after certification? Definately NZ new, everthing is in English, has weird trans number (not the normal codes found on JDM models) and has a few other subtle changes that only NZ new models get. It does have yellow injectors and 90mm air flow meter. My experiance with racing (mainly karting) has taught me that rear brakes help more with "sliding" a car into corners (giving more straight line traction out of corner) than actually helping a car slow down for the corner. So upgrading rear brakes (and bias control) may help with lap times but probably not due to increased braking effencies but because of faster corner exit speeds. In fact many years ago in my "young and dumb full of c*m" days I put a spot weld in the rear brake outlet on my vauxhall chevettes master cylinder. Did not effect my braking power at all, but let me do "stand stills" in a car with barley 50hp ;D. Was a fairly common thing to do back in the day.

$434 to basically wiggle the connections. That is highway robbery

=Fail. I have a nz new v5 and it didn't come factory with 4 pots. I had to upgrade them.

It's always a touchy subject, but I have no problems with them when there is a need for them. This site http://www.landtransport.govt.nz/vehicles/get-your-lights-right.html has all the information we need. Answers all our questions. It is illegal to drive with fog lights on, but I will continue until I am fined because I believe it increases my visibility to others. As already stated the HIDs are a no no, but it doesn't say you couldn't have them as driving lights so if wired to only turn on with high beams they may be ok.

My fog lights hardly provide any usable light in normal driving conditions because they are pointed to a point only a few metres in front of the car. But they make the car very visible. They would never blind anyone because they are not aimed high enough. IMO the vehicles that are more likely to blind you are 4WDs or SUVs (what ever you want to call them) because the light can be at the height of someones eye in a normal car. Better of banning them if you ask me, unless you have a good reason to have one (and dropping them kids off at school is not a good reason)

Why don't you tell us how you really feel. No point holding back here

I drive with mine on all the time day and night. In fact I never turn any of my lights off. I have never been pulled over for it and have been doing it for years. Where does it say you aren't aloud to drive with these on unless there is fog? Reading the LTSA requirements on fog lights seems they could still be failed if they are to bright.

The lights in the bumper that turn on with a button on the dash.

What is stopping us putting them in our driving lights? I will have to have another read of the standards tonight.

I just finished reading the entire wof requirements vehicle lighting on the land transport website. I could not find any requirements saying HID lights could not be used on cars that did not receive them from factory. And the only reference to colour I could find said that it needed to be mostly white in colour. So if there is a visible blue hue then they probably won't pass. Do they make a big difference in light on a Subaru?

I'd bee keen to order some, as long as they aren't extremely expensive. Do you mind checking how much they are? Cheers,

Ok, cheers. I'll try that this weekend.

Cool thanks.

Hi all, does anyone know if Subaru make vibration shims (or what ever you call the pieces of metal between the pad and caliper) for the four pot brakes? I installed four pots on my car about 3 months ago (without the shims), and now the the pads have worn down a bit they have started to squeal when slowing to a stop gently. And if anyone has some i'd love to buy them 8). Cheers.

mbl8 is really good on car with hydraulic lifters........But, your GTB won't have, or at least shouldn't have hydraulic lifters. mbl8 will still be good to clean up the inside of your engine (i used it on my old GTB) I just wouldn't expect it to fix a tap/knock. As already suggested a tap or knock from a GTB is more likely to be piston slap or BEB. My old GTB made a tapping sound until it warmed up, it never affected performance and I sold it before it **** itself completely.

Thanks guys. Mind didn't have the sticker, so I just counted the crown teeth. Cheers again.

Does seem to be a weird combination. Using it for the mountain is a good reason to upgrade to the larger disks. If not for braking power, then for heat dissipation. I use a v5 wrx for a ski wagon and I upgraded the brakes to 4 pot. Made a big difference on the decent. Also a good idea to get some pads with a higher than normal temp range to stop brake fade.

Seems weird for a TS-R to have the smaller disks and rear drum brakes. AFAIK the TS-R is the top non-turbo model other than TS-R B. Which usually have the same specs as a GT but without the turbo. I've owned a couple of non-turbo legacies for daily drivers and always made sure to get the TS-R as it comes with the better brakes, double overhead cam engine and nice interior (i.e. climate control, better seats etc.) I know some LX legacies have rear drums, single overhead cam and push button heater, a/c. Does your car have double overhead cam, digital climate control?

Very cool vid. I agree though, the first one was better. That piece next to the edge of the wharf was very cool though, I would have buttoned off for sure and subsequently ended up in the water. Probably the reason I don't make my money driving very cool cars ;D