Deforester
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Posts posted by Deforester
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Feed it some rice
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id get a boost gauge on there ASAP and see how high its going. A good test would be to bypass the boost control system and run wastegate pressure, see if it still happens.
/quote]
Pic of how to do that?
Remove line 3 from t-fitting on line 1/2, then block t-fitting to close the line. You could use an off-cut of vacuum hose with a bung/goof plug in one end and fit other end to the T. Just make sure the bung is tight and secure, if it pops out the wastegate actuator will not open properly causing the turbo to free boost, which will damage the turbo and/or engine.
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Thanx, think I'll get some myself
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Did you use soapy water to check for leaks? I had a BG5 Legacy which used to cut randomly but only on really hot days. Sadly I sold the car before I figured out what the problem was. Seems like you've replaced almost everything in search of the problem
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Looks much better
Where did you get them? -
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I think that hose leads to the purge solenoid. When the throttle opens it creates a vacuum which opens the solenoid, I think it sucks fuel vapour from a canister somewhere allowing it to be burnt off. It has something to do with emission control. I'm no expert though so don't take my word for it!
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Did you (or your mate) do anything else to the car at the time, or did he just spray the carb cleaner in and leave it at that? Also have you checked to see if the ecu throws an error code?
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Allah akbar!
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Dude..
Sounds like your friction plate is not lined up properly.
What tool are you using to align it?
When I replaced a clutch in my old BG5 Legacy I had the same problem, sure enough the friction plate was out by only a few millimeters, but was enough to stop the box from sliding home. Good place to start.
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Damn shame, good looking Blitzen. Hope they put this right for you.
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The squirrel mincer! I remember this one now, based on the R1 city car. Look what Prodrive can do with a granny wagon
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Is that the one when Clarkson drives around and around only to stop for a big vom?
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Long gone now, was a fun 5 speed at the time. Got a Foz now
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Thats frickn awesome! Glad you two found each other again after such a long hiatus, o for oresome
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If your looking for easy power, a one piece up pipe, 1.750" diameter will add 10kw over the stock item. Ever wondered why people say twisting the turbo made more power,
most cases nothing to do with the twisting, its that the new up pipe fixes the factory restriction.Thats a good point, I always thought that twisting the turbo was a strange way to gain power
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Bob sleddin'
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I had a bg5 that used to slap real loud when cold. I remember looking at it before buying it, the guy selling it said something like "I'll start it up, dont worry about the horrible clunky noise, my mechanic reckons its common"
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and you still bought it!
Lol yes I did, after a couple minutes running it all harmonized and ran nice and smooth. In retrospect I could have been in for all kinds of trouble!
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I had a bg5 that used to slap real loud when cold. I remember looking at it before buying it, the guy selling it said something like "I'll start it up, dont worry about the horrible clunky noise, my mechanic reckons its common"
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Thats true, its referred to as 'section width' given in millimeters from wall to wall. Tyre sizes a unusual as they combine metric, imperial and percent . A 205/65R16 has a section width of 205mm, the 65 is the percentage of section width which dictates the 'profile' of the tyre, and the R16 refers to the wheel diameter given in inches. The R only indicates that the tyre is of radial (steel belt) construction as opposed to cross ply (rayon or cotton ply) The ply rating, for example 6 ply tells us that a radial tyre with one steel ply is equivalent to 6 cotton plys. Hope this helps
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I agree with Koom, Funkytown is right too, I work for Bridgestone Commercial as a fleet serviceman, I often see major differences in cap width of retreaded truck tyres due to extra sidewall rubber, which adds to the section width of the casing.
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ABS ring issue, hub vs cv joint...
in Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Posted
Hi folks, I tried searching for this but found nothing here, Ive had a hunt around google and found conflicting opinions there :-[. I could really use your vast collective knowledge on this one!
Its a bit long-winded but here goes: Im currently replacing a wheel bearing and front outer cv joint on my sf5 foz. It\'s a 97 jap import automatic t/tb and has an abs ring mounted on the outside of the hub carrier, right behind the disc rotor. However the cv joint supplied has it\'s own abs ring mounted at the spline end. I\'ve read that they can be used in place of a non abs ring cv joint, and Ive also read that the ring can be removed from the cv itself by using a hammer and chisel to split the ring, thus detaching it from the cv.
Is it necessary to remove it at all? My concern is that the ring may displace the cv joint and prevent it from bolting up all the way home. Also could it come in contact with the bearing seal or foul up against the inside of the hub carrier? Ive found that once I tighten the axle nut to the spec 140 ft lb, the hub no longer turns freely (with transmission in neutral) and I\'m reluctant to bolt everything up only to pull it all apart again.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
-Dan-