Decimate

T\'was the ecu earth, rewired them both and problem solved

What\'s a SBF? I didn\'t find any blown fuses in the engine compartment or under the dash

FYI Car is 89 RS Legacy And typically this only happened the day I went to put in on trademe! So, I replaced the pump for a Walbro about 6 months ago, and have done several drives with the fuel pump going fine. Then went to start it a couple of days ago and it would crank but not fire. I noticed something was missing and I realised it was the absense of the fuel pump priming noise. I checked the relay (the green plug one right?) and it wasn\'t clicking when I turn the key to \'ON\'. I noted that the main relay was though. I swapped the fuel pump relay from my other RS but no different (although I can\'t \'guarantee\' that it was working beforehand). I swapped the main relay too but still no improvement. I tried a couple of other things, as I noticed that the check engine light wasn\'t coming on either when the key was held in the ON position. So, I swapped the ECU, and same result with the other ECU - no check engine light, no fuel pump priming. It gets stranger though - although the pump is not priming when I go to \'ON\' when I switch the key back from \'ON\' to \'ACC\' I can hear the fuel pump prime for about .5 - 1 seconds?? I\'ve confirmed when attempting to start the car there is no voltage getting to the fuel pump. Any ideas what\'s going on? Only thing I haven\'t really tried yet is either a brand new relay or checking the ECU grounding. I dont have access to a multimeter currently but can get one from work tomorrow Thanks in advance.

Finally got around tomoving the car to a place where I could start it in gear where it wouldn\'t rick slamming into a wall or neighbours yard. Did the trick, start in 2nd with the clutch in and it did a 50cm lurch foeward then came unstuck. Took it for another spin around the block and the drivetrain at least is happy for now....the engines another story!

Good point, I\'ll check the throw vs what\'s in the manual (I presume it should be in the service manual). Although comparing the two cars, the throw on the one that is working seems like its less if anything but can\'t hurt to measure. Regarding play in the shaft yep even with someone sitting in the car with the clutch depressed you can wiggle the shaft back - but there\'s no visible leak from slave. Sounds like it\'s time to look at the master. Are most Subaru masters swappable?

Thanks for the replies fellas. Well I swapped slaves and re-bled for the millionth time, still no difference. I can roll the car in neutral but not with it in gear and the clutch in. Out of curiosity I put the old slave on my other BC and that one works fine (i.e. can roll the car while in gear and clutch in) - interestingly enough the clutch pedal on this car feels nowhere near as tight as the other, it feels all spongy, but still seems to be doing the trick there the other is not. I would try starting it while in gear with the clutch in but don\'t want to sent it into the neighbours yard. Really not sure where to from here. Really really dont want to have to take gearbox out again

Well, re-bled clutch today with assistance from wifey to try and get any air out, no good. It does seem as though the rod isn\'t fully pushing the clutch fork right through it\'s full throw though. Buggered if I know why though. Am going to swap slaves with other BC and see if that helps.

You mean the one that returns the gear lever to centre? Yeah I think the next part of the operation will be a two man job!

OK, so this isn\'t related to my gearbox conversion thread as that\'s my other BC. Last time I drove my RS (about 1km around the block - this was just after bleeding the clutch) the gearbox was immaculate - like a hot knife through butter. I went to start it over the weekend and it starts fine, but I simply cannot get it into gear while the engine is running. If I attempt to put it into reverse it crunches loudly but wont go in. I have tried pumping the clutch pedal to build up pressure but there is no change. I re-bled the system about 3 x times, and clutch pedal pressure is good but it makes no difference. There is plenty of clutch fluid in there. The only odd thing I noticed was that if I opened the bonnet after I\'d shut the car down and checked the slave for play, I could push the little rod back into the slave with just finger pressure. It shouldn\'t do that should it? The result when doing this is that the clutch reservoir fills up slightly. Is it possible there\'s some air in the system that I can\'t get out? There is no sign of leakage around the slave either when testing for play. The main reason I\'m scratching my head so much is because like I mentioned, last time I drove it, it was perfect, now it doesn\'t want to go anywhere. Help please!!!

This just gets funnier. Mate emailed the suppliers asking them to confirm what was so majical about the engine and how it compared to an sti. This is the response (From Roscos dismantlers): I quote verbatim and unedited: "motor should have forged pistons. im not sure about block but is out around 2002 turbo sg forester .they are subarus best turbo engine"

Righteo, so the latest issue in this saga: I put the new CV cups/stubs in the GTB diff, and this has stopped the skipping. I\'ve also put the correct sized flange on the diff, so it should bolt up to my driveshaft. Finally went to install it on the weekend and the f%$&ing bearings on by BC driveshaft are too fat to fit inside the GTB cups. I tried swapping the spider/bearing holder from the GTB cups onto the BC driveshaft but noooo the spline count is different. I really can\'t be farked changing the rear driveshafts to GTB ones (doubt they\'d fit anyway), so does anyone know if there are any 4.44 diffs our there which should play nicve with my stock BC5 driveshafts. Waste of effort and $$ getting that bloody GTB diff to where it is lol all good learning though

There is so much wrong with the situation it\'s not funny. Just to confirm a few things though; *It is my mate and not my car, therefore I completely trust his word but I did not negotiate the initial engine swap deal. *The garage is Gourdie Automotive, Waimea Rd, Nelson. MTA Member. *I went along as a support person for my mate as he doesn\'t know as much about Subaru\'s, as soon as I started pointing out things wrong with the car to the owner (John Gourdie) his heckles went right up and he said he didn\'t see a reason for me being there and that he\'d only deal with my mate. *I told him to get stuffed and I was entitled to be there to assist my mate he said well you better step outside my workshop because I dont want you in there. *Queue lots of bullshit him being a general asshole to my mate and I. *Blame gets laid on supplier who apparently supplied a \'V6 engine as requested\' when I pointed out it was a V6 STi engine asked for, he got fired up again. *Blah blah blah, get kicked out. *After my mate being alot more humble then the wanker deserved, the mechanic agrees to put it on the hoist and take a look. *Leave my mate to it and I hang around outside within earshot. Mechanic claims he doesn\'t know anything about Subarus and that if there was a problem with the engine he\'d fix it (I piped up and said don\'t bother fixing the engine, REPLACE THE F%&*KING THING) mechanic then goes nuts again and threatens me. *Fast forward a few minutes of me pacing around and my mate shadowing the clown still being alot more polite then he should, the mechanic eventually acknowledges that he\'ll have to keep the car and have a better look into the leak but it looks like the rear main seal. Says he\'ll also talk to the engine supplier and he\'ll let him know. *Fast forward 3 hours. My mate gets a call direct from the engine supplier (WTF, he should only have to deal with the party he contracted to undertake the work yea). Engine supplier clown claims bullshit as per first post THEN tells him if he wants a proper STi engine it\'ll be 3grand (not 1.5k as originally quoted, and it somehow doesn\'t make sense that he\'d sell a supposed \'s***\' engine for twice the price? Mate rings mechanic back who says well I don\'t know about engines so I trust the engine supplier but we will get leak fixed in an attempt to be the hero and I am guessing fob him off. HA. So, sounds like off to MTA mediation for my mate.

Mate went to pick up his V6 STi from a local garage after having a replacement \'V6 STi\' engine put in it. I took one look and said ahhh that\'s not an STi mate, in the spare parts they threw in the flex plate from the auto trans lol and the non-sti manifold. Went to the garage today and spoke to the owner who was a total wank stain about it and ended up threatening me after I told him apparently I know alot more about Subarus then he did. Anyway, he said he\'d \'check up on the engine with the supplier as he\'s not totally sure about the exact difference between Subaru engines\' The supplier then called him direct and admitted it was from a Forester (can\'t recall the model # but will get it) and that it was \'way better andwill give you no troubles\' and that V6 STi bottom ends were s***. Funnily enough after 15kms the engine is literally spewing piles of oil around, the garage put it on the hoist and hello rear crank mail seal. What I\'m trying to work out is how that supplier could possibly claim it\'s a better engine. Is it CDB? Semi-Open? For a start it\'s probably running a higher compression ratio which isn\'t ideal. Not to mention I don\'t think it would have the same factory forged internals? Probably not built to see 1 bar either. It is the same phase-2 engine though as it has the staggered manifold bolts but year but what I\'m generally after is whether or not there was some freak 98-02 Forestor engine out there which could possibly be \'way better\' than a stock V6 STi one. Cheers, Tim

It\'s a little 12-sided nut sitting there lol, it\'s in mint condition....obviously made of tougher stuff than the compressor wheel! I took the intercooler off a couple of weeks ago when I was first trying to work out what the problem was....safe to say that explains all the metallic sand I found through the intakes. I\'d say it hasn\'t done much damage as it\'s obviously been shaving off tiny tiny amounts over time - god knows how long its been in there though Ive only had car for 3 weeks

Whats wrong with this picture? Found a fuel leak while I was at at it too....(looks like coolant, tastes like fuel) hopefully, that\'s the thread done

Well, the pipes match, and it\'s not the BOVs. I\'m going to take every piece of intake piping off and see what the fuck\'s going on.

Trust me, it runs like a bag of crap! And Lachlan yep that\'s the one I was talking about\' And Marky, when you refer to the secondarys BOV that means the relief valve? Ill try all this today. I\'ve also got a diagram of where all the hoses go with numbers etc so ill make sure they all match up

There sounds like a whining noise coming from around the intercooler area as well, not sure if related or not. secondary relief valve - is that the one that sits in the intake track between the two turbos?

Well, brand new AFM from Subaru has made a slight improvement but there\'s definitely no boost there still. Will try the ECU next, if that fails then f%&k knows.

Should be able to tell you this evening or tomorrow - whilst I was waiting for the new AFM to turn up I pulled the fuel pump to check the sender as the gauge was dodgy and broke one of the plastic pipes : so hopefully new pump will turn up today!

Talking to myself here Took it for a whirl with the boost gauge connected, and it does get to 3-4 PSI (but only about -5 vacuum ???) After winding it up it also threw a check engine 23 (air flow sensor) so combined with the dodgy wiring, we might be getting somewhere.

I\'ve got the boost gauge connected and it\'s only readying -5 vacuum so probably isn\'t a reliable gauge. I\'ll take it for a \'boost\' later and see what it does. On another note, I noticed this on the AFM plug wiring - as you can see the green one has been soldered together, and then spliced into what looks like a larger core cable a little further down - could this be causing issues? It looks like an average job at best.

No 98 here in Nelson, otherwise I would. And no change. So I\'ve had a play this morning (I still don\'t have a boost gauge) and took the intercooler and bits off. I\'m 99% the primary is spinning, it was pushing out a shitload of air at least at 3-4000rpm (in neutral) it is. I checked the turbo -> intercooler pipes and they seem fine, also the wastegate on the primary was shut and I could open/close it with pliers pushing the rod. So at the very least it should be getting boost to the intercooler? So I thought maybe the BOV was leaking - I took off the recirc pipe while my wife pulsed the throttle but no air was going out the BOV. I couldn\'t see much of the secondary coz of the bloody intake piping but I checked the butterfly valve in the intercooler piping from the secondary and that opened and closed OK once I\'d released the vacuum pressure. So, if I get a boost gauge and its not reading pressure in the manifold, what could be stealing my boost??? And if it is reading a small amount of pressure, but not enough to spin up the secondary, is it possible still leaking somewhere. And if it\'s reaching the correct amount of boost from the primary, but not performing then could the motor be shagged?? If the latter, again I\'d be surprised as there\'s no symptoms on the oil/water systems.

Err .... no. K Marky I\'ll so some better diagnosing for ya! Keen as for your help and it;s much appreciated Will get the boost gauge on tomorrow then will take all inlet piping off failing that

I have a boost gauge here (thanks for the offer tho Johnny), just haven\'t found long enough vacuum hose yet! But I agree I really do need to test that (although my mind wants to rule that out as it\'s honestly the most sluggish thing you\'ve ever driven). I\'ve put the green connectors on, get the same result as the black ones - no code, just a steady blink.l Although I swear when they were connected the so9lenoid box started wheezing and sounded like a BOV was repeatedly cycling somewhere. How do I test it the system is holding vacuum? Is that the spray soapy water test?