raymong

she was a guddy...regrat getting rid of the beast the pics dont do justice...really really have to see it in person up close in the sun.. did u see it in the sun lazlo?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us i painted this... basecoat hologram flakes in clear and it actually settled really well, and 2 coats of clear on top...was pretty good sized flake easy flating

that just black basecoat with the hologram flake.. to be honest that stuff works best with a light base...

all seems so fuked. everything was changed.... sti shortblock v8 wrx heads...

well it starts and i got it scanned and all that came up was the cam angle sensor im pretty sure its the wiring cuz the resistance is too high according to the workshop manual... its a new loom on the manifold so will go back to the old loom in the morning and see if it works i also checked the resistance on the cam sensor itself and was within spec so might not be the sensor after all and is the wiring

i live in tokoroa there aint any subaru specialists.... im prolly the most clued up around here...

with the car running i unplug the plug for cam angle sensor and it does nothing....

would the bung cam angle sensor cause the motor to only run on two cyclinders?? i take off spark lead on cyc 1 and cyc 4 and engine makes no difference only on cyc 2 and 3 woul make engine lose rpms

not alot of people knows what they are doing especially these new wrx's..

yep if only... pulled it apart new heads and gaskets.. car didnt want to run ...wouldnt idle... not to keen to pay 50 bucks for just a scan also tried the sti pinks and she wouldnt even start...there were pools of gas in the ports

anyone have a obdII scanner i can borrow??

what kit do i need for 2000 forester?? do they have the new style tensioner?? anyone know the best deal for the kit? cambelt waterpump tensioners and idlers

i have read the manual already... states nothing... just off and on.. itchi ban help??? its tapping like its constantly trying to close the tgv or its shut and is skipping the gear

am i susposed to preload the tgv actuator/motor? when the actuator/motor is out the butterflies are sprung open... the other side is shut when the motor is in.. i have put it back in like the other side but still making a loud ticking noise from the tgv region.. also can this cause my inlet manifold to heat up really really quickly??if not what are the reasons for mani heating up

will let you know cheers man

could b keen where bouts are you?

could do you a set of full head light covers/eyelids?

cheap please??

once again... the last block was no good.. went to a v7 sti block with v7 wrx heads.. some how when i went to start it..the tumbler valve on passenger side back cyclinder broke...?? car starts..runs like a sack...and i mean a sack..still low vacum.. back firing. check engine light ..will not rev..and just runs like a**..

stripped engine bay hopefully for a quick paint up tomoro..

i hear lug lug lug :'( i done the clearances...and yes shes idling properly!!!! but...lug lug lug... start again...

i just swapped over the inlet cam shims... its now 6 thou 6 thou for cyc 3 and 8 thou 7 thou on cyc 1 it was 6 thou 10 thou cyc 3 and 8 thou and 4 thou b4 is that gonna be better than b4 or do i need to get new shims to suit

mine is wrx v7 shim over buckets... was thinking undo engine mounts and then jack up.. undo timing belt and cams and do it that way..

because the heads were off the old v7 motor which im pretty sure it had a different block dummy in there to get running...had 3 flat top pistons and 1 dished top(v7) piston. the issue in the 1st place was that the v7 piston was sticking out 1mm out of the block..thus the top and bottom of the dish of the piston was hittting...i had a look at the piston there wasnt any valve marks/dents so i assumed the valves were fine.. when engine was put back together and running there was tapping noise coming from that side of engine.only occasionally ..thought this could be a bent valve hitting piston..but on the valve clearance check that cyc(3) had too much clearance so it could be the noise... any way of changing the shims without taking cams out??im not too keen on buying a shim changing tool ...

must have been abit rushed... defitnately been causing me massive headaches! if i was 2 have bent valves..would it still comp test ?