evljat

All this talking about bad fuel economy has got me thinking! My 95 GT auto (twin turbo) wagon gets about 7 km/l. This is pretty much all around town driving with a light foot. Is this about normal? I get about 330km to a tank. Cheers.

Do a vf28 and vf30 share the same exhaust housing? I have a vf30 with a bung actuator and would like to use this http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/auction-556342949.htm

Thanks for that I\'ll give it a go in the morning.

I\'m a bit unsure on how to reset the codes. Do I just plug in both the green and black connectors and keep the speed above 11km/h?

I don\'t have a spare afm. I\'m getting error code 23 Air flow meter or circuit (exc. Justy); Pressure sensor (Justy). (http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/) I\'ll be taking it down to Highbrooke Automotive first thing tomorrow to get it checked out. I spoke to Alex (I think) over the phone and he thinks its the AFM also. Weird thing is that I took it for a drive around my home after disconnecting the AFM and it drove fine. And when I plugged the afm back in it drove fine for a short while too. Then started acting up again.

I feel like I’m making another one of these threads every week… The car is a V3 STI The last few times I’ve driven my car I’ve noticed that the idle has been a bit rough. It wasn’t fluctuating but I could feel vibrations through the steering wheel. I didn’t think much about this. Today everything turned to shit. I went to grab something from the local dairy and the car was running fine until then. When I started it up it wouldn’t idle, going up 1500 rpm then dropping right down. I let it set there for a while hoping that it would steady but then whitish/bluish smoke started puffing out. The car was hesitating and wouldn’t accelerate properly but I could hear the turbo spooling. It began to puff black smoke if I gave it too much throttle. After about 3000 rpm it would run fine and have no hesitations. Every time I approached lights the idle would go crazy again and it starts puffing whitish smoke. Also, the car hasn’t been boosting right for a few weeks. It hits about 9 psi then slowly goes up to 11. It has a Greddy Type S boost controller. So in summary: • idle fluctuating and rough • Smoke puffing out at idle • Hesitation • Low vacuum at idle Could it be a bad AFM or a vac leak? Cheers guys, hopefully it’s something simple.

Cheers guys, Tore the hose into 3 pieces while taking it off haha. Replaced it with a new 90 degree bend, this one doesn\'t kink in the middle like the one. I\'m only running water in it atm because I forgot to pick up coolant while I was at Repco, No coolant leaking so far so it\'s safe to say that it was the hose. OT: The car is still only boosting 11psi no matter what I do with the boost controller even if I turn it off. What could this be?

Can\'t believe I left that out. It\'s a 1996 WRX STI RA. I\'ll get onto replacing that hose.

I was driving home after a trip to my panel beater (who was closed) and decided to give the car a bit of stick. I noticed that I was only pushing 11-12 psi instead of 15 so decided to pull over and check my boost controller. I only pulled over for about 15-20 seconds and as soon as I left I could hear a weird sound coming from outside of the car. At first I thought it was a flat tyre so I pulled over again and got out of the car only to see a trail of coolant behind the car and more pooling out. I wasn\'t to far from home so I babied it and kept an eye on the temp gauge and it didn\'t move above the half way mark. Now the header tank resevoir thing was completely empty so I topped that up and it all leaked out, but it didn\'t suck any from the overflow tank. There is some sort of brown sludgy looking s*** in the overflow I don\'t whether it\'s oil or just dirt build up. I\'ve only owned the car two weeks. The engine oil isn\'t milky. There is no coolant sprayed on the bonnet or engine bay. The sump and k brace are covered in it though. The car has done 170,000km and afaik is still on the original engine and head gaskets. The previous did say that the cambelt was done at 165000 though. I jacked the car up and had a little look under and the only thing I could see that was a little suspect is this little hose which had a tear in it. But I don\'t think it is able to leak out the amount of coolant that came out. It\'s on the bottom of the passenger side of the engine and I think it connects to the thermostat. I apologise for the vagueness in the description I\'m not very mechanically knowledgeable so any help will be great. Also if anyone knows some Subaru specialists in the East Tamaki/Flatbush area I could take it to it\'d be awesome. Cheers guys.

Are these the ones? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/gear-boxes/auction-542115026.htm

I test drove a V3 STi today and noticed that when in gear there was a bit play (wobble, looseness whatever you want to call it) in the gear stick. Is this normal? If not how hard/expensive is it to fix? Thanks guys.

Filled it up with water and ran it for a bit. There are multiple wholes at the top of the end tank. Would it be cheaper to get a replacement radiator than to fix this one? Cheers.

Was driving to work and noticed the temp gauge in the cluster shot right up and there was steam coming from under the bonnet. Limped to work and parked it up and took a picture. This was the first time I looked under the bonnet in over a week. Haven\'t had time to inspect it but I\'m guessing its the top radiator hose. Also some rusty water looking crap next to the radiator cap. Any suggestions to what it can be? Cheers guys.

So I finally fixed this problem. After it was said that it is more than likely to be the C/L unit than the motors I decided to replace that. A short trip down to the Takanini PickaPart and $16 later I had one from a wrecked bg5. I was surpised to see about 5-6 of them there. So I replaced the unit and wah-lah I had central locking again. But it wouldn\'t lock/unlock with the alarm. Following this thread http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,27921.0.html I soldered the two wires and bang everything was working like it should. ...Apart from the infrared key lock thing. But oh well don\'t need that anyway. Hope this helps someone in a similar situation. Cheers.

I had a look at the fuses in the driver\'s footwell and I couldn\'t read the Japanese writing. Assuming this picture is correct I switched the 20A fuse with a working one and the central still didn\'t work. I could still hear the relay clicking when operating the drivers side lock. Now I\'ll look into replacing the central locking unit.

Recently bought a 1995 Legacy GT knowing it had central locking issues. The central locking does not work at all from both the Alarm remote, infrared remote and the switch on the driver\'s side and the driver\'s side lock. I can hear a relay clicking somewhere behind the glove box. I removed the glovebox and had a sniff but couldn\'t find anything. From the searching I have done I believe that my central locking motor has stopped working. Is this true? and how hard is it to replace? Cheers guys.