shore_boy

Thanks for that mate, always best to be safer than sorry. I like using gaskets too. Other members say they have had no problems and i have no doubt as you all provide good feedback on a daily basis. But I like the feeling of putting it back together the way it was intended to be.

I put all of the parts on the transfer case and diff into a box and took them to Subaru for confirmation on the gaskets. As you pointed out it was indeed still in tact at the time of the photo (probably just being held by the fluid). After putting everything together and sealing i looked in the box again and found the washer so i had a look for the diagram online and found that. I don\'t think that the number 30 washer is big enough to fit over number 31 but seeing as im going to pull it apart i\'ll have a look and see.

Number 27 (circled in red) is what I assume that I missed if this is vital would appreciate a word of knowledge. I\'m well aware that all parts function together however, i\'m 19 and still learning so shit happens... More than happy to pull her apart again another gasket isn\'t the end of the world!

Spent a good 20mins on my back last night working it all out with the old part so I\'m quite familiar with all the points you mentioned. mine was exactly the same in terms of it fitting in only one way/orientation so I\'ll just be patient with the new one. My synchro rings are a world apart and it really good nick by comparison so I\'ll definitely leave theirs off when I get round to cleaning it up. Gonna have a practice install with the old synchro and work it all out so that I don\'t damage my new one. Hopefully all goes well. Little worried as I found a stray washer after attaching my transfer case to my center diff... Will post a diagram soon of where I think it belongs. Don\'t think it\'s too important, well it doesn\'t look that way at least...

Got myself some goodies today ready for install on the weekend. Also shopped around for a new synchro/bearing set (after Subaru quoted $890+GST!!!) and was lucky enough to have All Subaru Parts World come across this! It\'s a little different to mine but it\'s out of the exact gearbox so I can only assume that mine is incorrect which may indeed explain the issues. Will find out who is right on the weekend!

I have the replace the synchro looking \'thing\' that came out too as the bearings feel really worn. I hope that it\'s cheap also. Gaskets are about $20 ea from Subaru from my past experience. Ill keep your method in mind and also try with a sharp chisel as that is what I have at home. I have a feeling that something sharp, fluid (petrol) and a great deal of patience will see me through the process. Last questions would be just any information regarding replacement of the transfer case. I\'m going to fully assemble it before I install it as I imagine that it will make the parts more rigid when it comes time to fit it again. Secondly on the very back of the transfer case where the drive shaft is inserted there is an \'o\' ring. Is that replaceable?

Thanks, taken me quite a while now. [quote name='kamineko said: ahh, good job there. i wasn\'t expecting you to disassemble it in situ I wasn\'t expecting it either. I just didn\'t know the depth of the transfer case so it ended up coming off in two parts. I basically split it on removal. That\'s two gaskets to be replace now Have you got any suggestions as to how i should go about cleaning off the pieces of gasket on the faces of the transfer case? I don\'t wan\'t to damage them at all.

Cheers mate. Just came a day too late. Got a puzzled on the spring pin as i didn\'t realise there was one within the other.

Finally got the transfer case off this morning. Came out in two pieces as i wasn\'t aware how big the thing was. Still learning! When we finally broke the gasket seal the case was hesitant to come out and the NUT FELL OUT!! I am lucky it didn\'t turn into a projectile and tear through my box. It looks to be in decent condition as it is now so I\'ll put it back in and do a better job of staking it in. Along with the nut out came what I think is the 5th gear synchro? (photo below). Bearing feels worn and you\'d imagine so with the nut so damn loose. Just some photos of it all disassembled waiting for a clean and lube. Tranny oil smells like shet... Whole garage smells of it.

Took the brace off today and Emptied the box of fluid. Is it normal to have a lot of metal shavings in the fluid and stuck to the magnet on the bung? Also pulled the drive shaft out. All that is left to do is the linkages and then the transfer case. Hoping to have it all done tomorrow and on the road Sunday! Do I need to have the car in neutral/in gear? Does it matter? I imagine having it in neutral would be beneficial when dismantling the linkages.

Just a few photos of my current issue and one for proof of the damage. Took a modest photo with the finger all in tact after a day in a bandage, no dangling bits. The following photos are of my problem due to the space permitted by the brace. The dripping fluid put a smile on my face as my efforts weren\'t completely futile.

Too true, removal is the best option but by no means the easiest. I think i\'m going to be ignorant and go for the rattle gun just out of convenience for myself. I do understand what eightdollar (Mike?) said regarding the reverse syncro\'s but i don\'t know enough to follow his procedure and i don\'t want to drop the box.

Was thinking the same.

Fark that\'s a big socket! looking at the pics in my first link looks as if there\'s a lot of room? Do you know if the teeth around the main bearing move with the nut whilst tightening it? If they do you could lock them up and tighten the nut. When I get round to tightening mine ill let you know how i went about it. Or this? [quote name='Eight dollar said: Knock the roll pin out of the 5th selector fork Select 1st or 2nd with the shift rods , then slide 5th fork to engage 5th gear This will lock the box as it is in two gears - tighten the nut with a strong arm (rattle gun can cause issues) Then slide out of 5th- refit pin and de-select 1st or 2nd (depending on what you engaged) a machined down socket is priceless to ensure no damage is done to the rev syncro hub

Have to use a rattle gun i believe. Because if you try to torque it up the input shaft will just start to turn. That\'s how i\'m going to tackle it anyways. Will also use the gun to remove the gearbox fluid bolt as i don\'t want a repeat...

Just following the tutorial above and having some issues due to the underside brace so a bit more removing was necessary just to get to where I am now. Not going to get into the starter motor or anything else in the bay all will be done underneath from now. Also getting the drive shaft out after removing a few extra pieces like the exhaust is easier Trying to make it as easy as possible even if it means removing a few more parts, but that\'s never the case with aftermarket parts... If you have some tips for me drop them down. Even if you tell me i shouldn\'t have removed "xyz" it\'s appreciated. Cheers.

Great DIY natured shot of the engine. Overhanging light is really handy when the door is closed Dump pipe came off after the bits that were in the way (intercooler and brackets etc). Bloody bastard is always a prick to get off, without fail. I took a little time to inspect it and found a little leak near the flange so will take it in to be welded. Also need a new O2 bung for sensor as mine is cross threaded. Luckily the gaskets all look to be in good order so Ill just put them back in. If only I had a hoist... Would be fantastic to have a little more room under the car. Note the curb stones holding the rear up ;D The underside brace is really getting in the way and i\'ll most probably remove it tomorrow. It runs right under the nut to empty the box\'s fluid so i\'ve not managed to do that yet and spent the afternoon in AnE after my patience ran out and I pinched my finger between a spanner and the underside of the car Tip of my finger was just hanging on and basically got squashed off. It hurt... As for now all of the transmission brackets are off and Im well under way. Just have to remove the other half of the exhaust, the drive shaft, empty the box, take care of the shifter linkages and ill be in! May be a slight delay from now. Will see how my finger feels tomorrow and decide whether to continue or leave it for next weekend. Unfortunately is my left hand and im left handed also...

Now i understand! That was what I was asking about above when I asked about why it would only happen in 5th gear. Thanks again. I have never opened up a box before although I have removed one. I\'m hoping i\'ll have a better understanding after doing this.

Thanks for that [quote name='boon said: Pretty sure you\'re all talking about the same nut that is mentioned in the article linked up the top. Are the transfer case and input shaft not on opposite sides of the tranny? If not I have to do some homework before taking this job up... So confused ???

By input shaft do you mean the spline? The black shaft in the center of the bell housing? Excuse my lack of knowledge but what would be the reason for this only occurring in 5th gear?

I hope so. Will be easier that replacing the tranny! [quote name='AdamOst said: ha, my v6 does the same thing, happens when if i back offf the accelerator too harshly usually on the motorway. Thankfully it doesnt do it at trackdays. Mine is getting really bad now and as you say it\'s not a terrible issue I just dont want anything to come loose and shred my box. Should be having a look this weekend or next. Had surgery Tuesday so will see how I feel... Will let you know if I manage to fix the issue. I\'m gonna look into engine mounts etc also just to be sure.

So with the price of premium fuel and constant maintenance to my car I\'m quickly learning how much attention my new STI demands... She may only have 90km but the 14 years of age is evident. **If this is supposed to be under gearbox and drivetrain just let me know and I\'ll move it across. Car is an Impreza so it is relevant either way.** Recently whilst on the motorway i noticed that my 5th gear was jumping back and forth and in some cases popping out of gear completely. When the gear is engaged it feels fine even when I release the clutch pedal. Only on acceleration does it jump back about an inch and sometimes completely out after i release the accelerator. If it does not jump completely out it just returns to the normal position only to jump back/pop out on acceleration. Last note the gear holds for the duration of the acceleration and then does what it likes on release. I found this recently http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/mod-transfer-case-removal-5th-6049.html?t=6049 which I have read a bit about and it seems to have worked for a few people so I think that this and some new fluid is a good step in the right direction. As always any comments are appreciated specially if you have dealt with the issue in the past. If you would like a more thorough description please let me know what it is you would like described and ill do my best to clarify. Cheers. Also if you have any recommendations on the right oil to use (yes I have read the "suitable oils" thread but other opinion is also good) and how much to use please leave a comment. As for getting the transfer case off It shouldn\'t be too hard. Should it??? I hope to solve this quickly as I have a track day in October. Will be my first time and I\'d just like everything to be right.

If I remember correctly you\'re running a link G1 right? If so I had the same in my car about a month ago now and the car took a little longer to start than with the factory ECU in place. Also I\'ve read that there are two models of this ECU and that the first one can cause ignition and idling issues. I have the refined model ® and it\'s fine but the ignition is still weak as i mentioned. As for starting the car fuel, air and spark. Just gotta go one step at a time I guess. Just my two cents anyways. All the best mate.

Fuel pump priming?

No worries mate. I didn\'t think they were badly priced at all.