KiwiJoe
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Posts posted by KiwiJoe
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I have a pair of Genome mufflers on my bl5 gt. They sound good but not amazing (not ideal on equal length I guess), but drone a bit on the motorway. They also look too big, hanging down like a pair of dog's balls (they're sedan length so at least not too long). Build quality is great though. I plan to replace them at some point, so their crazy resale prices should be a bonus.
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I've been with the AA for the last year. They've been pretty good, and not too expensive, even with a few mods (turbo back exhaust, intake, ECU tune).
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I didn't do anything, but my Legacy did this:
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Replaced the Bridgestone RE050A tyres on my car with S001s. Too early to notice much difference, other than the fact they are MASSIVELY quieter. Thought there was something wrong with my exhaust, then realised it was just that the tyres weren't making such a racket.
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Noticed that some **** has opened their door and smacked my driver's side rear door, leaving a nice chip. Wasn't there this morning when I drove to the mall. ****ers.
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These are pictures of the LEDs on the car. Bear in mind that the sun is directly behind me shining squarely onto the car's brake lights and reflecting back a bit (unlike most pictures and videos of LEDs taken at night), so this is an absolute worst-case scenario, but the bulbs are still very visible:
Car with brake lights off:
Brake lights on:
Off centre view:
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Yeah, I remembered Philips selling them a few years ago, but couldn't track any down in NZ. I've found a few chromed T20s from Australia for about ~$15 a pair, which isn't ideal, but Singapore sounds like it might be cheaper.
I use red 30W CREE projector bulbs (7443 with dual brightness) from Trademe (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/bulbs/auction-796174102.htm) for the main stop lights. I've tried a few of the cheap SMDs over the years, and they've always been pretty rubbish and ended up in the bin, but these CREE bulbs are amazing (also expensive). They're really well made units with aluminium heat sink surrounds, and a lot brighter than the stock bulbs.
I replaced the high stop light with a generic red SMD T20 which isn't as bright (~$16), but may upgrade it to a CREE (the JDM housing is different to the USDM housing: the bulb faces back rather than to the side, which is why I assumed a projector wouldn't work, but it would). I also replaced the interior cabin bulb and the two puddle lights with LEDs (super cheap and well worth it).
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For the years you're interested in, it's unlikely you'll come across many CVT Lineartronics. They started to appear in 2009, but you're more likely to see standard four and five speed automatics (five speed for turbo and 3.0). Outbacks are a worse drive on regular roads thanks to their suspension, but have better ground clearance. Cam belts need changing every 100,000 km or so on the 2.0 and 2.5 engines, and a full service is around $1000, so not a big deal in the grand scale of car maintenance. 3.0 H6 motors use a chain, but will still need an extensive service (albeit less expensive) at around the same age.
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I put a strut brace on the Legacy. Last year I bought a new Ultra Racing brace for ~$150, and for the life of me I couldn't get it on without having to remove the engine cover (which provides a seal between the hood scoop and the intercooler). Yesterday I picked up a used STI brace bought on Trademe, and it fits perfectly. No muss, no fuss, popped right in.
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Ooh. Nice wheels!
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Whip out the screwdriver and take a look inside. If the transponder compartment is empty you're all good. If there's a chip, it's going to get expensive.
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Replaced all three brake bulbs with LEDs: two 7443 30 Watt CREE bulbs for the main brake lights, and one 18SMD 7440 bulb for the high-stop light. Much brighter, and faster to full brightness than stock.
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Japanese-market vehicles of the time had speedos that went up no higher than 180km/hr, as this was the legally governed maximum speed of the vehicle. Some models, like the various STI versions, and non-JDM models (including NZ new models) got speedos that went higher (eg. 260km/hr speedo), but were still limited to ~180km/hr top speed without tinkering with the ECU. The speedo is still the easiest way to tell at a glance whether a Legacy is a JDM import or NZ new.
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WTF. That's pretty lame.
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This one is pretty cheap ($150 buy now): http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/interior/auction-758277776.htm
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It's the Japanese version of the following ice warning (for some reason the Japanese warning doesn't have the temp number though):
Being in the South Island, I see this a lot over the winter.
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Ah, Rebecca. The only reason to watch Carbuyer's reviews.
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On an unrelated note, I replaced all of the Legacy's interior lights with LEDs today. I wasn't expecting to keep the fade in and out of the main cabin light, but to my surprise it still does it! Score! It's the little things...
I also found an interesting site that lists the 0-100 times for every Legacy from 1989 to today: http://www.1001moteurs.com/performance/view-Subaru-Legacy-2-5+GT+Spec+B-3194.html
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Its a shame we don't get the tbsti legacy's over here like they do in oz, seriously sick cars. Thinking i might have to copy the wheels they come with and get a pair, or just be a cheapo and get the rota gravel lookalikes.
I dunno. They were a case of the the local distributor basically chucking the contents of an STI catalogue on an existing car, together with some Brembo brakes. I would much rather have an S402 (which have popped up now and then in NZ) with its genuinely unique features.
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It depends where I'm driving. Around town I get about 500km out of a tank of 98 (Christchurch central, typically moving very slowly through congested traffic to and from work: when the traffic is really bad, I can get less than 400). On the highway I get about 700km out of a tank. This is with a 5EAT 2.0GT automatic. I could get much better fuel economy driving with a more conservative map, but I always drive with the most aggressive/max boost and gearing. Because racecar.
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I've been on the lookout for one of these gauge clusters used for the last year:
STI Legacy Performance Gauge Pack (Part Number H5010AG000)
~$1000 landed new which is a bit rich, but it looks pretty cool and with a clean, factory-fit look.
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I don't think too many manual GTs were sold in Japan, based on how many imports I see for sale. They're far from ideal in bad city traffic, especially with an extra cog, and having driven one it's not the greatest box to use. Most of the rest of the world isn't quite as fascinated with manual gearboxes as we are in NZ (it makes me laugh when I see car ads with 'ModelX (MANUAL!!)' as the title), just in what's practical: automatics for major cities with a lot of gridlocked traffic, like Japan and the US, and economical manual micro-boxes where fuel is really expensive, like most of Europe. On my infrequent highway trips, I do miss having that tall cruising gear though.
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The fuel light comes on when there's around 10 litres left in the tank, then goes out when the tank has been filled to 15 litres or more.
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2010 JDM Legacy 2.5 GT
in I.C.E.
Posted
If you want to display text on a burnt CD, you probably need to add CD-Text (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CD-Text) to the compilation (try here: http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20060914063621259). Alternatively, if you convert your CDs to MP3, they may include ID3 tags that the head unit can embed automatically.
As for the USB drive, the only format that both your Mac and the Pioneer will understand is FAT32 (try here: http://www.hgst.com/support/faqs/how-format-my-drive-use-windows-and-mac-fat32).