NakiSubaru85

Oh riteo. One of the forums had something about the 3 pin connectors only 2 of the pins were actually used, so was curious as to whether I could insulate the \'C\' wire and connect the other 2 to the pins on the replacement alternator? Am trying to source a 3 pin replacement all the same but am not having much luck at this time.

Right I managed to source a second hand alternator $40 (brother knew someone that had one and picked it up for me). Issue is that the pin configuration is different. Existing alternator is 3-pin. Replacement is 2-pin. Existing PN: LR1100-717 (Google search had \'C\'S\'L\' 100Amp) Replacement PN: LR185-701E (Google search had \'S\'L\' 85Amp) Both are Hitachi I assume the \'C\' has something to do with the ECU and that they are not compatible??

Hi All. I replaced the battery with one from my ute and car started fine. With the car going I measured the alternator output voltage (negative probe to battery negative and positive probe to alternator output) and it was stable at about 11.85vdc. Battery voltage was about the same (11.85vdc with the car going) I turned the car off again and battery voltage was about 12.23vdc then slowly climbed back up to around 12.3vdc once car had been off for about a minute or so. That said hopefully that was all the issue was. Appreciate all the responses from everyone thank you. Matt ;D

Hi All. Any help will be much appreciated as this is our family vehicle and we need it over the Christmas period! :-( Issue description: Was driving home today in the very busy Christmas traffic and the stereo started flicking on and off. I turned the AC off, and went to open the sunroof but it didn\'t work, then the stereo stopped completely. Traffic was stop start, and as I moved forward there was a clunk of sorts, then I stopped at the red light and the engine felt like it was getting ready to stall. All the gauges went down to zero as if the car was off (no lights on the dash) but the car was still idling (all be it very rough - so I put it in neutral and gave it some revs to stop it stalling and backing up the traffic until Boxing day...) Light went green and I went (was only a few minutes from home with no where to stop) gauges still unresponsive Engine didn\'t want to change gears and doubt it got past second Made it into the road next to our house and the engine stopped (I had it in neutral) and I managed to roll close enough to home Pushed car out to front of our house Engine wouldn\'t turn over at all - when I turned the key there was nothing. Put my Fluke on the battery and it had 12.2vdc Hooked up some jumper leads from another vehicle and car starts fine, but when I remove the leads the voltmeter across the battery just drains down very quickly. Vehicle is 1998 Subaru GTB Legacy Wagon (2L Twin Turbo Auto) with 135,000kms My first thought was the alternator - but why would the car drive for the last couple of k\'s if that was the case, and why did the gauges die but engine keep working for a while. Also why would it not change into normal gear (stuck in low gear after gauges died) I think I will struggle to find a new alternator today but may be able to get a second hand one from the wreckers, but wanted to get opinions first as don\'t want to change if it isn\'t the cause. Cannot see any damage in the engine or anything and all the belts feel tight. Appreciate any help Thanks Matt