Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×

syphe

General Member
  • Posts

    209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by syphe

  1. I\'ve had mine done by a tuner cryo from the States. mine is a 2003 GT-B with TD04-HLA turbo (manual, auto\'s get a VF38 I think). I\'ve had the subtech downpipe installed as well as a resonator to quieten down the rasp, you\'ll probably want to avoid an intake replacement, they don\'t make much difference unless you are upgrading to a better turbo, but if you do, you will definitely have to retune, as it will mess with your AFR\'s. I would wholly recommend cryo, it cost me $150 US for the tune, mine was the first of these cars he tuned but i\'m very happy with the results, I only asked for a mild tune, it hits about 1.25bar, but the real improvement is in drivability. There is a dramatic increase in power before the boost comes on, and the power delivery when boost does come on is much smoother than stock. After 5k rpm the car doesn\'t run out of puff like it does stock and will happily pull till 7k+. It took me 8 revisions to get to where I am, and I took mine to the track in order to do my logging, Ruapuna here in CHCH has test days twice a week which only cost $20 for 30min sessions. Meant I could legally (and safely, no cars coming the other way) do a full 3rd gear pull from 2k rpm up till redline. So I say if you\'re happy with putting in a bit of work you can get the tuning done at relatively low cost. website is here: http://www.cryotuneperformance.com The other option is looking into the tuners in Aus, one of my workmates is getting his 3.0 specB done at the moment, and they have much more experience with the twin scroll legacies so you\'ll probably get quicker results.
  2. there is a plug under the passengers kick panel, you could connect that, turn the key to get the electrics going then turn key off and unplug the plug, not sure if that\'ll do it as each time I do that i\'m generally flashing a new ecu anyway the other option is just disconnect the battery and press the brake a few times, might have to leave it for another 30seconds then reconnect the battery.
  3. also need a downpipe to fit the single scroll turbo. at the end of this you\'ll lose some early spool, not sure how dramatic but mine gets to 1.2bar before 3k rpm in 3rd gear. The other thing you could do would be to transplant a EJ25 in from a newer model, not sure how much these would go for in little old NZ. Anyway, whatever you do I\'d be keen to see the results, it\'s the one thing I think us BP/BL owners miss out on
  4. I think even some of the 2007 legacies also come with twin scroll turbo\'s, chimera from legacygt.com (he\'s probably on here too) has a 2007 with twin scroll but not the TD04. afaik only the models with the 2.5L engine have single scroll and UEL headers.
  5. I tested the outputs from the unit meter output, so I think its a good sign the control unit is OK. I have a feeling its the cable, fingers crossed it is.
  6. Hi, I recently bought a defi link control unit 2 and boost gauge 2nd hand for my legacy gt. Unfortunately the cable that came with the gauge was broken, and though I\'ve managed to somewhat salvage the cable, I can\'t seem to get the gauge to power up at all. The control unit \'seems\' to be working fine, turns on and beeps at me without anything plugged in, and it lights up when I turn the lights on, however without seeing the gauge do anything, it\'s impossible for me to tell whether I have a faulty gauge, cable or control unit. Was wondering if anyone had a working setup that they wouldn\'t mind helping out for a few minutes to verify what bits of kit I have that is working and what needs replacement. I can provide beers as favor payment or cash if anyone can help. Cheers.
  7. Just an update incase it helps anyone. Installed mine on Anzac day with the help of a mate, took about 4 hours to do, a lot of that time spent getting off/on the bracket blocking some bolts for the heatshield, as well as fishing for said bolts as they inevitably fell into the depths of the engine bay after unbolting. Installed it with some heatwrap from Redline performance, all went in well, no leaks and can\'t notice any change from stock from the engine bay. I quite like the sound of it at the moment, not as raspy as I expected after some of the comments here, and the quietness when not gunning it will keep the girlfriend happy. I must say though, I wasn\'t quite expecting this much of a difference in power, it\'s definitely given more usable power for regular driving, but at the same time makes you want to spend more time in peak boost. thumbs up from me so far, next step is a tune
  8. Bringing back an oldie, but got a couple questions. I\'ve got my pipe on the way, but on the advice of a few people here decided to pre-empt installation of a resonator to replace the factory unit. The guy at the shop was a bit confused as to where I wanted it installed, and seemed to think replacing the large factory resonator with smaller aftermarket unit would lead to a more raspy noise rather than keep the tone deeper as is the result you guys seem to be getting. He also mentioned I\'d struggle to get a warrant by removing the cat on a car that was imported since 2008, I can\'t find much information about the legality of removing the cat, does it apply to the individual car being imported after 2008, or is it the model year? Have I picked the wrong shop, I\'m expecting the pipe to be here very soon and will be installing it sometime in the next couple weeks myself with some help, but will want to take it to a shop to get a resonator or cat converter fitted, obviously don\'t want to fit a res then have to get a cat instead when I get my next wof. Cheers.
×
×
  • Create New...