Rosssub
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Posts posted by Rosssub
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Those idlers are bloody expensive from Subaru or aftermarket, or you can buy the bearings yourself and replace them... costs about $6. You do have to have a BFH or a proper press to get the old bearing out, and whatever you do don't lose the stupid captive nut on the back of the tensioner!
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?47099-AC-Idler-Pulley-Tensioner-Pulley-Recon
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Some pics of the hose routing in here:
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42682-Header-Tank-Internal-Corrosion-Version-7-STI
Biggest - To turbo
Middle - To radiator, top drivers side
Smallest - To overflow reservoir
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Specified range is in the centre column.
Rear Camber --0.50' +/- 0.75'. So from 0.25 positive to 1.25' negative.
Front Camber -0.25' +/- 0.50'. So from 0.25 positive to 0.75' negative.
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Cleaning the brake pads with brake cleaner should sort the brake screech out. Tightening the power steering/alternator belt should sort the belt noise, ALT/PS belt tension adjuster shown in here:
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Yip certed at 335mm +/- 5%, so definitely not as low as yours. You're probably right on the 3-4' negative:
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Could be piston slap, or the big end bearings rattling until they get some oil pressure.
Grab a timing belt guide from pick'a'part or put a wanted add on here. Aftermarket timing belt guides are over priced. Partsouq if you want new OEM, gaskets are a lot cheaper too:
Coolant reaches operating temp much faster than oil. The coolant flowing through the OEM oil cooler/oil mondine helps warm the oil up to temp when the engine is cold, then helps keep the oil cool at higher temps. With just an aftermarket air oil cooler fitted your oil will take longer to warm up.
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How many kms has your engine done? Should be able to find a replacement long block for a few hundred more than a head gasket job $800-$1200.
No difference in cam sensor between auto/manual, the crank trigger changes at Rev D/version 7.
If you're planning on changing to manual, fit an oil cooler and a timing belt guide. The EJ206 is missing both.
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Been messing around with throttle bodies today, thought I'd throw some more pics in here:
Here is the intake port of the version 7/Rev D throttle body idle air control valve:
Then the outlet port on the manifold side of the throttle plate. Also the MAP sensor air path valley hiding behind the gasket:
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My BH is sitting on Cusco adjustable coilovers, lowered on 18's without rear camber arms. Sitting at just over 2' negative camber, specs/details in here:
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?44511-Wheel-allignment-specs-preferences
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As slystiguy said, pre 98 due to the inline intake manifold bolt holes and separate smaller coolant temp sensor.
Twin turbo due to the primary turbo oil feed pipe across the left head, so probabaly BD/BG.
Normally the auto is EJ20H and the manual is EJ20R, so with an auto box I'd guess it's an EJ20H from a BD/BG Legacy.
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Rip the cluster out (checking loom plugs are tight), pull the back off and look with a magnifying glass for cracked solder on the circuit board.
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A phase 1 97 EJ20G into a phase 2 99 Legacy will be more headache than it's worth. With idle control being the biggest issue. Your 99 ECU cannot run the earlier EJ20G manifold mounted idle control valve.
Here's a recent thread on the same issue, phase 1 engine into a later model car:
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?49396-be5d-engine-install
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Im looking at just swapping mine for another one of same style. Im having issues with my rev counter and temp gauge. Was just wanting to swap in one that works properly. Either that or find somewhere that could fix it.
If I did swap it hows does work with the old odometer reading and new one?
Could just be dry/broken solder in your cluster.
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Page 2&3:
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Should cost you about $17.60+gst. Did one of mine not long ago, write up in here:
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Thanks Sobanoodle.
Same problem i had with walbro dude.Yeah the Walbro GSS342/DW200/DW300 and common AEM 50-1200 320lph pumps are all about 124mm long, so won't be a good fit in the BE/BH or later.
[quote name='evowrx said:
Hey ross you posted somewhere you needed a dw65c to fit...you forgot? Heck you are human.Nah haven't looked into it that much before, don't think it was me.
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Brought a new Deatschwerks DW200 fuel pump for the BH5, that was listed as a direct replacement for Legacy's 90-07:
Removed the original V8 STI pump to swap them over:
The DW200 is 10mm too long to fit into the BE/BH fuel pump housing/cradle:
Even without the black rubber seat it's still 5mm away from clicking securely in place:
Here's the OEM Subaru BH/V8 STI on the left and the DW200 on the right:
Measuring up the OEM pump then comparing other aftermarket options, there are a few pumps that will fit.
The DW65C (without clips) 265lph pump is a perfect match to the BE/BH with a 65mm casing, 95mm main body and 113mm total length:
http://theattack.rallysportdirect.com/2011/11/new-product-deatschwerks-dw65c-and-dw200-fuel-pumps/
Here's some Deatschwerks specs, including the DW65C (with clips) which is for the later model BL/BP.
Then the AEM 50-1220 320lph pump listed for the GR/GH chassis will also fit the BE/BH perfectly. Same size/length as the DW65c (without clips) and the OEM BE/BH (phase 2) Subaru fuel pump:
So for now the version 8 STI pump has gone back in:
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Might be lucky though looking at this pic of Reuben's phase 1 STI manifold:
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From 98 upwards the idle air bypasses the throttle butterfly through the throttle body itself. So from version 5/BE/BH upwards have a separate hole through the intake manifold, just above the throttle opening.
You will need to cut or drill a hole in your older phase 1 intake manifold, to match the iacv port on the rear face of the rev D throttle body.
Here's the IACV port in a version 5/BH5B intake manifold, above a version 7 STI/BH5D. Just above the main throttle opening:
Then the matching IACV ports on the rear of the throttle bodies, BH5D on top/BH5B below:
More pics in here:
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41940-BH5B-TT-Intake-Manifold-stripped-Compared-to-V6-STI
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Be best to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from, but SOHC valve clearance adjustment covered on page 227 in this workshop manual:
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Hi gents.
I've done a search and the link on the mega post no longer works.
Can someone post a link or email me a copy of a service manual please. ...particularly the engine section?
Cheers
What engine info are you after specifically? A lot of the internals/processes are very similar between models
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I used a bosch replacement which i ordered through wingers.
I would also run carb cleaner through the AFM to give it a good clean, if either of the 2 are playing up you get false positives codes popping up. Knock sensor would throw a check engine light.
If you're going to clean the AFM use a dedicated MAF cleaner, or second best an electrical contact cleaner. Both safe for sensitive stuff, ok for plastics and evaporate completely.
Other auto cleaners are pretty harsh solvents. Carby cleaner for example is mostly acetone which eats plastic and will often leave an oily residue.
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What's the engine code? Unlikely to be a valve clearance problem, unless the kms are crazy high. More likely an exhaust manifold heat sheild or accessory/pulley bearing.
Is the noise worst at idle? Does it change with rpm? Is it worse when the engine is cold?
PM RAYDEO, Joker or evowrx about it.-
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Changing BE/BH Fuel Pump
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
BE/BH fuel filter part numbers in here:
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?49276-2001-BH5-Rev-D-in-tank-fuel-filter
After forwarding some photos and info about attempting to fit the DW200 into the BH, I've received the following from NZ Performance/Deatschwerks:
Hi Ross,
We have heard back from our contact at Deatschwerks and it turns out they have updated their listings to remove the 2000-04 Legacy from their list of applicable vehicles for the pump you purchase.
The reason behind this seems to be that there is some ambiguity with that year range as to what pumps fit. I personally have sold plenty of DW200’s into that model vehicle at a previous workshop and they have been fitted without an issue. This in turn means the fact that our listing mentioned it would fit up to 2007 is not totally incorrect.
The other point Deatchwerks have made is they would need to use a certain pump with a certain fitting kit and then reuse some of the factory components to get a solution that would work. Both of the items they suggested are not items we have in stock. So at this point in time we are unable to supply an item that will fit your vehicle.
If you have any further questions at all please let me know.
Thanks
Doug Goodall
Technical Sales Advisor
So......
I've now purchased an AEM 320L fuel pump (p/n 50-1220) through Drift Side Racing:
http://driftsideracing.co.nz/65mm-long-fuel-pump/50-1220.html
Same external size as the OEM BE/BH (phase 2) fuel pump:
I'll throw some more pic's up when it goes in.
Knowing I've already got voltage drop through the OEM fuel pump wiring, with the OEM pump which will draw 6.4A at 40psi and 8.2A at 80psi. Now upgrading to the aftermarket AEM 320L pump that draws 10.9A at 40psi and then 13.8A at 80psi. I've stopped in at a local auto sparky and put together a fuel pump rewire kit for under $25, (20A blade fuse, fuse holder, 12 gauge power/ground wires and an old 30-40A n/o 12V relay):
Planning to install the AEM fuel pump, check voltage drop again through the factory wiring. Then rewire the pump power and ground wires and test for voltage drop afterwards:
Fuel pressure testing, fuel pump wiring voltage drop testing and soon fuel pump rewiring how to thread found here:
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?45832-Fuel-Pressure
Here's the AEM 320L 50-1215 (with clips) that will fit into the BL/BP Legacy:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/fuel-delivery/high-flow-fuel-pumps/320lph-e85-compatible-high-flow-tank-fuel-pump-65mm-with-hooks-offset-inlet