[Where is the best place to get 4pot seal kits?]

19 hours ago, k1w1 said:

Can you PM me brand too zeus

Done

[SG Rear Strut Bar]

You can use one from a SF, BD and BG too.

I've used one previously in a BC5 and it made a difference making the rear more solid. They're generally designed to work with existing panels so no modification is needed.

[Where is the best place to get 4pot seal kits?]

3 minutes ago, Loren said:

 

 

I meant what brand and price?

Pm'd you

[Airflow sensonr - partsouq.com ?]

47 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

Need to use the VIN number on the strut tower for partsouq. Click the Subaru JP button then chuck your VIN in the searchbox there.

It’ll be BP5-xxxxxx

 

The part number it suggests for mine is 22680AA310

I got 22680AA310 using his chassis code too. 

[Airflow sensonr - partsouq.com ?]

Whats your rego mate

 

[Where is the best place to get 4pot seal kits?]

On 7/20/2018 at 9:27 PM, Loren said:

 

What are you selling?

 

The seals kits. 

[End links for Forester STI]

That forums suggests the KLC32 for the front and rear links, but there is also the KLC139 which is the ball joint/ball joint style oppose to the 'figure 8' style.

 

KLC32 http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC32

 

KLC139 https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC139&sq=28374

[Where is the best place to get 4pot seal kits?]

26 minutes ago, Loren said:

Subaru sell them.

They sure do. $66+gst per caliper

[Where is the best place to get 4pot seal kits?]

9 minutes ago, shady said:

Would like a set also Zeus if ya can help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll send you a message mate.

[Where is the best place to get 4pot seal kits?]

1 hour ago, k1w1 said:

Not sure if this is the right place to post but where is the best place to get 4pot seal kits?

I'll send you a pm

[VF18 and VF27 work on TT?]

I think the manifold mounting points may be different. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

[VF18 and VF27 work on TT?]

If you're keen to give the single turbo conversion a crack yourself (tbh not as hard as it sounds) Reuben has done a detailed write up

 

[o2 sensor plug location?]

Right hand side (drivers) towards the front from memory 

[o2 sensor plug location?]

Near the fire wall 

[EJ20 Engine bouncing...?]

Yeah I'd suggest checkout out all your bushes and mounts. Car is old enough now to have seen some decent wear through the control arm bushes and engines and trans mounts

[EJ20 Engine bouncing...?]

Worn engine mounts?

[Subaru GC8 Front Swaybar Link Replacement]

13 minutes ago, Loren said:

 

The whiteline units are extremely expensive for what they are... but bnt have much cheaper versions... you just need to put better bushes in them from what I hear. And then the weak point becomes the arb mount.

BNT/Autolign do the nolathane ones, so better than the factory replacements. Whiteline and nolathane are the same company

 

EDIT: Just checked the system and the Whiteline C-links are actually a few dollars cheaper than the Nolathanes

[Subaru GC8 Front Swaybar Link Replacement]

1 hour ago, D1Style said:

Cheers bro!

No worries :yes: kinda crap I need to know 

[Subaru GC8 Front Swaybar Link Replacement]

13 minutes ago, D1Style said:

PM me your Rego, I'll see if it has been catalogued against your car and i'll get some pricing for you on the Links and Bushes

They'll just be LR90

[Subaru GC8 Front Swaybar Link Replacement]

Your current links looks fine. No point replacing something that isn't busted, also don't bother with the whiteline set, you can get factory replacements from BNT for an 1/8th the cost

[Servicing question GC8 / BR9 Legacy]

What kind of service? If it's just oil, plugs and filters, just do it now then every 10,000km for oil and filter, 50,000 or so depending on which plugs.

 

If you're doing cambelt kit, every 100,000km

[GG9 control arms]

3 hours ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

gc8 alloy arms are the same size, yes. bolt em up and go (to get a wheel alignment)
poor mans anti lift kit may be worth doing while you are in there (SF/SG Forester control arm bushes)
 

GD alloy arms are significantly wider, but do-able, and you dont need different axles for the front. you do for the rear.

All good thanks mate.

As for needing different axles in the rear? Do you mean if you use GD control arms

 

8 minutes ago, Leufkax said:

Not worth the hassle, you probably won't notice the difference

Changing control arms aren't a hassle? Upgrades sway bar links from the figure 8's to balljoint type

[GG9 control arms]

Long gone are the days of affording a turbo so I'm rocking an 04' non turbo GG9 these days.

 

My question is about upgrading the steel front lower control arms, are the alloy units from GC8s still the go on these or are they a different size (like the version 8s(is it))

[WTBorrow: Engine Hoist and stand]

What area you in man? I've got a engine crane

[Brakes]

2 hours ago, Subru said:

Do I have to bleed the brakes If I replace the fluid?

Pads are shot too so i getting new ones soon.

Yes, you need to bleed out the old fluid from the lives while putting in the new stuff to actually make a difference