Zach
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Posts posted by Zach
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Thank you
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Just went into my local subaru dealership to ask what they think I should be putting into my v8 dccd 6sp box to get a modern answer on the faq. They want to sell me zic 75w80. I googled zic and cant find a single person using it in there subies but a ton of complaints about them from normies. Anyone shed some insight on this? Im not feeling to confident about it even though they are subaru dealership. Zic are korean made and packed in pakistan.
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I tried a diffrent flick switch but all I can get is the rapid clicking solenoid sound
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previous owner had it done, with receipts.
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My dccd is stuck in manu. This means I can still alter the diffs but cant put it into auto. When I press my auto option the light on the flick switch comes on for aslong as im holding it down and I can hear a solenoid around the car ecu area (passenger foot rest) flicking. The gearbox wont go into auto mode. the moment I lift my finger the switch flicks back. 2001 v7 sti. no codes or odd dash lights, no odd mechanical sounds car drives and pulls like she should.
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also nice to know she's only been boosting 12-15 since rebuild. Brought car of a 50year old Philippine man
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I just assumed factory boost was around 15. Had no idea they were factory 18. Thats great news
even 7psi boost wouldnt make the running gear feel heavier in the way that I mean.
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No I'm not sure about the law side of things. I just assumed because they are treating you like a third party to the seller that it had immobilised you in that department.
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Oh your in auckland.. sorry I didn't read that proper. But if you are going to pursue this further then Id still apply the same open calm demeanour.
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Well perhaps you could take a deep breathe and just walk in and say: Hi man. Look I payed for a pre purchase inspection on my 2007 subaru that came back fine. Now I've brought the car and taken it into a garage to look at it myself and right off the bat when I lifted up my bonnet I could see right away that the power steering pump is leaking and the headlight bracket is broken which is already going to fail at the next wof, the suspension wasn't even fastened properly witch is very concerning. These things on there own arn't that big of a deal to me but It just worries me that if these things were missed like this then how thorougher or trustworthy was the rest of the check? I don't have peace of mind now and I've paid you good money. I'm sorry I lost my cool on the phone but I feel really gutted about this man. I know I cant actually do anything about it now and you have the law on your side sure but I've been done wrong here, I trusted you guys over AA and I probably still do, and I get we all make mistakes but Can we work something out here? I've already purchased the car now based on your trusted report but getting mad is not going to fix anything for me. So how do you feel? (perhaps bargain for a free oil change or something next time I'm not sure at this point)
Id go with your own spin on what I just typed. Because it's the plain vulnerable truth and I find people often respond better to that then a threat/fight. gl friend Ill be contacting you soon for a tune
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After tinkering with my new car the last week or so trying to get to the bottom of a sneaking suspicion something just wasn't right, the New fuel pump and spark plugs arrived today. The pump I pulled out of the car was unbranded and slightly smaller than the walbro that went in. I think the one I pulled out might have been a knockoff because the copper plugs I had in the car for the last few days had white/grey on the tips and I could just feel that she had more power to give, almost like was only getting 90% combustion. New plugs in and pump in. Grounded the coils around the place and also grounded the engine to gearbox/chassis and boys she's responded so well. It took about 15 mins of easy driving before the ecu started to ramp things up again, then I started giving her a good thrashing for half an hour or so and now she's just humming and is driving the best she has. I can feel she's making full combustion almost like the running gear has no weight to it at all, no mili second dead spots when I put my put down, just purring and boosting beautifully, the sound orgasmic. My plasma coils will arrive soon along with synchronic bov then I got to figure out a way to get my pod filter boxed and Im thinking its going to have to be a fab job then I'm gonna book her in with pappu for a humble 16psi road tune. I just knew she would have a slight vac leak or something because I could just feel it, I could feel the slightest bit of weight in the running gear so I started hitting potential causes one by one and Im experiencing that magical moment of joy you get when you have been tinkering with your car crossing potential faults off of your list and discovering all sorts of little worries along the way correcting them when suddenly you get it! and she hauls ass with love! I wanted to post about it because I know we can all relate to this moment and It will be encouraging to some of you who I know are still in that same boat trying to figure out whats wrong with your car. persist brethren and I hope you reap the rewards of winning the fight! I cant wait to wake up tomorrow and drive her to work! v7 sti.
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all branded sti. I turned one over to show the ngk
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Pulled these sparkplugs from my v7 last week. Engine was rebuilt roughly 20xxx ago. Googled it and cant even find an image. Anyone seen these before and know a bit more about them?
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Well answered
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2 hours ago, Gripless said:
Yes but that 22 psi is low down in the sub 4000rpm range as the Stock Wastegate actuator and pill can't hold more than about 15 psi well before the redline which is why the peak power isn't as high.
The area under the curve is about 30% greater which is what makes a car fast and drivable.
Peak power isn't everything
That plot you put up looks like it will drive like a modified vtec, nothing then everything like a switch.
I have a dyno plot here of a ej20 on 14 psi making 214 kW at the wheels. The plot is a straight line from 2500 up to 7250 rpm and 214 kW then flat to 8000 rpm.
That is the sorta of answer I was hoping would exist. I dont understand the intricates of dyno figures at all but what your saying makes sense to me. I think the subaru community does differ at large than the nissan scene as batbaruman said too
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On 4/30/2018 at 9:45 PM, Gripless said:
Don't forget header length and heat losses add up, one of the reasons why the newer FA series has the front mount turbo.
im pretty sure the stock sti can hit close to 240 kW with the stock turbo
On 17psi though? Seen a few subbies hitting 220'ish kw on trademe recently running low 22'ish psi
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Thanks guys. I'm in Hawksbay. I will travel anywhere. Thanks Pappu. Can I give you a call?
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Managed to get a really tidy v7 sti hatch. Only mods are equal headers and full exhaust with a fmic. Has Factory Ecu. I'm trying to find a balance between having a fun car but also keeping in mind I have a family now and She will be driving it too. I've read that the factory ecu's are tuned to Japanese fuel blah blah blah. I want to know the car is running the modification healthily as well. I don't see a point in investing 2.2k on a link and then another 1k on a tune if the factory ecu with a remap will suffice. I searched this forums and saw there are a few people who can do it with 1 or 2 people appraising them. I then googled for an official service and found tune technic offering the service from $1200. Before I go ahead I wanted to get opinions. Thanks clubsub.
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Cheers bro sweet read. so good turbo work is whats often neglected
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Thanks. I posted this because I wanted to have a open discussion about it with some people because its been on my mind and the people at my work dont care much for cars yet alone know about them lol so thanks for the imput there, the drivedrain loss, thats interesting point
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I've seen a handful of sr's making 320hp on F*** all boost (16-18) over the past few years and recently Was looking at my brothers dyno sheet from 1 year ago and realized he's got one too ( 250kw still going strong and thrashed weekly ) and he's only running 17psi with unbranded shitty 3rd hand supporting mods & a Garret ball bearing turb.
I seem to remember never ever losing to sr20dets in my above average gc8 back when I was boy racing even rolling start pulls. I always laughed at the rb and sr boys blowing there slow cars up while my ej out thrashed out raced and out lived them and Id blow my trumpet all the time about it. I sure as hell was not making 250kw on that old gc8 running similar boost untuned. On 17psi his silvia pulls considerably harder than my wrx did he tells me and he's not a liar in the least so I believe him. I've come to understand I actually know F*** all about car's so I hope im not sounding like a dumb ass but after a quick google the amount of work people are putting into there ej205's to hit the 250kw considerably more than my brothers. Do sr's make more power than us or have I just happen to see a few unicorns? Is it true? do sr's make better power than ej's alot easier? I always thought sr's were overrated but now It's got me stumped wtf. Thats a big difference in power. Can anyone explain? Im happy to give more info about both cars.
I have dyno sheets of his sil but dont know how to upload it.
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the head that screws into gearbox and middle piece
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Turbo Chra Cartridge Swap Help?
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