GorGasmSpecB
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Posts posted by GorGasmSpecB
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Also a 100% load dyno run will have a totally different A/F ratio to stop start and cruise in daily driving.
So yeah, if you can get 12k/l on the open road then you won't be too far off...
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What's your journey like, what's the average speed and distance? It looks pretty normal to me...
My old 04 GTB auto got about 500km per tank on 50km a day motorway trips in traffic, that was with a light foot on flat-ish land. Total open road it would get to 12km/l and 600-700k per tank.
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Neuton are OK, Altenzo are super ****, would avoid!
Also check out your local beurepairs/firestone/bridgestone. Every second month they have 25% off/buy 1 get 1 50%/buy 3 get 1 free.
Also nothing wrong with the factory 2 pots with decent pads, fluid. I was running out of grip before brakes at track day.
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98 is relatively expensive compared to 91, but it ain't expensive overall. I don't pay more then $2 a litre at the moment for BP 98. I remember paying $2.4 back in the day for 98.
Run 98 or nothing.
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I was warned off going to Torque for my car as well. I ended up with a box tune from the US which seems to be OK. I was also recommended a place in Taupo but I don't know if they do Subbies.
Ages ago I got my Stagea "tuned" at Torque as well. It did have only ****ty SAFC and SITC piggy backs but I wasn't happy with it and it was really flat in the mid range. I managed to tweak it myself and get 9 more kw and largely fix the flat mid range. I took it back for a Torque dyno day and my fueling was bang on 11.5 all the way through instead of dipping down to 10.5.
So yeah, not impressed.
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Yeah it could be that I am just getting old, grumpy and bitter LOL.
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That is true, but a couple of grand on a GT is going to go a lot further than a couple o grand on a 3.0R. It's all good if it's you want at the end of the day. It just turned out that it wasn't what I was after and I could have been happy as Larry with a standard car and a money in my pocket.
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Yeah, for the 4-5 grand I spent modding it I only got a few % gain. It was a good all round car at the end of the day but I could have saved my cash and it would have been 95% as good. The power gains just aren't there relative to the turbo models.
I had HKS plenum, HKS mufflers, Prova adjustables, whiteline sways, body kit, wheels & tyres, Znoelli disks and pads.
If I had to do it again I would save my pennies and do the following only:
cut out centre section of exhaust & cats and keep factory mufflers/switch to turbo mufflers
tune
pad & tyre upgrade
maybe some second hand wheels and lowering springs
I liked that it sounded pretty good and the engine/6 speed combo was a great match and enjoyable to use and the handling was good as well. But at the end of the day it didn't satisfy my need for speed
As I have mentioned before they have the performance of a new age hatchback. 0-100 in a shade under 7 seconds just isn't that quick anymore. -
I wouldn't bother and would buy correct offset 5x100 wheels instead.
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Hrm, what do you want at the end of the day?
I found modding my 3.0R 6 speed to be a waste of money.
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I was getting 9.8 in my 3.0R in AKL traffic, same in the GT. Hell my AMG is getting close to your 7.6...
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I would say that the cooling benefit of the FMIC will outweigh any reduction in response.
In saying that, I think something else is at play if your response has suffered with the introduction of FMIC. Was the FMIC installed and tested back to back with no other modifications at the time?
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Nope all round.
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That's the approach a lot of people take to a lot of things. And often it ends up in a complete disaster.
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Can't tell... It could be reliable for the next 50k or it could throw a bearing in the next 5k. Mine has been fine and it's up to 205k now but theres plenty of worn out things that annoy me with it.
For 7k I think there are better choices.
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LOL. I haven't had problems related to the turbo engines in my Legacy's.
The BL/BP turbo engine is pretty damned reliable. I had mine for between 90k-170k with no issues related to the turbo motor.
I agree it is scaremongering.
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LCA bushes is pretty common for that noise.
All 3 BL/BPs in the family had it.
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I had a 3.0R 6 speed and a 2.0GT auto.
This is how I would pick them:
Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, won't settle for second best = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo manual
Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, can't be bothered shifting gears = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo auto
Sporty driver that likes refinement and thinks a modern hatchback is fast enough, not worried abouts mods apart from looks/sound = 3.0R manual
A reliable comfortable everyday cruiser that isn't gutless = 3.0R auto
Just want a wagon hack = 2.0 or 2.5 non turbo auto or manual
Short story - the turbo manual has the most performance and potential.
The 3.0R cars smoother but slower.
other non turbos are just hacks.
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215 45 or 225/235 40.
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Don't bother changing the rest of the exhaust until you have done downpipe.
As heylin says, downpipe, filter, tune.
If that isn't enough for you then, intercooler upgrade and maybe the rest of the exhaust. Otherwise spend the rest on tyres/handling or styling.
Don't see the point to brembos either. I had standard rotors and Znoelli pads and they worked great even on the track.
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Mine drops to 10-11 psi through VOD where peak is nearly 20psi on secondary which is a decent contrast. It's all relative, as I said VOD feels like a 2.5 or 3.0 NA engine relative to the 15-20psi 2.0 from about 5krpm.
As you say, shifting into VOD sucks but you learn to drive around it or through it.
I would love to tinker and tune my setup a bit more but I think I already have 95% of the potential out of it and the hours and $ to get that extra 5% I think could be better spent on my other car and gaming heh.
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3.5k to 4.5k is my VOD range, it is definitely flat during that range, feels like an NA 2.5 or 3 litre. Post 4.5k I am off like a rocket, the faster the car gets, the faster I accelerate.
For example, first gear is a bit meh, second gear not bad, third gear is weeeee and 4th is limiter pegging/boost cut.
That's the LOL part of the TT.
It's fun to drive but the newer single turbo is easily the better motor. It would be interesting to see what a full VVT enabled engine could do with the TT setup tuned correctly.
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I would just go to jonvy.co.nz and buy up a whole bunch of Focal gear.
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My 10c would be that you can run the same tire size front and rear of different brands provided the O/D of both brands is within 1-2%.
As I have mentioned before they have the performance of a new age hatchback. 0-100 in a shade under 7 seconds just isn't that quick anymore.-
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Gen 4 engine in BH?
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Yep my TT is pushing the 200kw mark with all bolt ons and tune. Sure it's 205kms old, but it has shown no signs of giving up yet.
I would only convert if the engine ****s itself and even then I might just rebuild the TT or ditch the car and buy something else.
Would the gen 4 motor using the factory ECU also need the dash, key cluster to actually work?