GorGasmSpecB
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Posts posted by GorGasmSpecB
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Or coils.
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Option 1: Tune it and replace turbo IF it fails.
Option 2: Upgrade turbo and tune it.
Option 3: Do nothing.
Option 4: All of the mods(Money)!@#
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Stutter could be all sorts of things. I would suggest coils/plugs if it is only now doing it since the boost has increased, maybe AFM.
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Ahh, that makes sense!
It must bleed off pressure from the primary from 3000-4500 to spool the secondary, thus limiting it to 15psi so when it is closed the primary goes nuts, but once the secondary kicks in it isn't getting the gas.
I wonder what tweaks I can make
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yeah it's slightly bizarre and I haven't looked too far into it yet.
I only discovered it as the hose came off by accident.
Basically pull the hose off the middle nipple of the three that are on the secondary turbo to intercooler pipe, which I believe goes to port 2 on the BBOD.
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I picked up second hand rage pipes with the BG5 Y pipe which had to be cut and welded as it was an inch or two out of line.
Not exactly sure how much difference it made as I did FMIC, Boost controller and pipes at roughly the same time. Also had a retune done which netted around 200wkw.
There's something really strange about the way boost is controlled that I haven't figured out yet though. With my boost controller I get 15psi primary maximum, no matter what setting I use, but on secondary it can go all the way up to 20+ PSI.
Now the funny part, if I pull off the middle hose that connects to the 3 ports from the pipe off the secondary turbo (which from what I can tell is the MAP sensor return???) I can get way up to 25psi on primary but secondary wont go past about 16ish, regardless of the boost controller setting. This leads me to believe that there is some sort of ECU controlled pressure relief happening when on the primary turbo that stops it boosting past 15psi. If anyone has any ideas that would be great as I would like to get 17 or so PSI on primary and 18-20 on secondary.
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I have Ohlins with 12kg springs. I can adjust the damping down a bit and this helps slightly but the springs are still far too hard for the road. I would suggest 8kg all round...
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Don't both with the sequential controller. Your 100% best bet is a retune, but without Raijin around I don't know who would do it.
Put a 0.8mm restricter in hose #1 from the BBOD to the secondary IACV, theres a topic in this forum for it. This can help with lag.
The only other worthwhile mods from there are downpipes and intercooler upgrade. A boost controller as well if you can't get a retune.
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You shouldn't have this issue with the Legacy, again check some out and pick one with the most appropriate/attractive features.angie']What I'm really after is is a 'sport' non turbo just sporty trim or is it a completely different suspension?Is the 'eyesight' the most 'luxurious' variant?
How does B sport differ from 'sport'?
In the past I have owned a Honda Accord ex japan for which parts were hard to find as apparantly that particular model of that particular Accord was very uncommon, so I am trying to avoid a model where parts in NZ are again hard to find.
I dont seem to be able to find a Jap import 2010-ish that comes in a standard non turbo 3 litre engine.
They don't exist. The 3.0 came in the previous model. This generation is a 3.6.
Am I wrong to assume that a 2.5 GT version with turbo is just another part that can go wrong and be expensive to rectify? I would assume these cars as jap imports will have been hooned around in over there?
Yes/No/Maybe you just can't tell. The turbo version in theory has more that could go wrong, but that doesn't necessarily mean it will be less reliable, it may be more expensive to fix. You just can't tell how the prior owner has treated the car. The upshot of the turbo is it's much much more powerful and more attractive for resale.
And I am wondering why a 5 speed gearbox is still used on a 2010 GT but a CVT on the non turbos. Doesnt this suggest that a older 5 speed trannies are considered more 'durable'? Or do the new 2014 GTs have CVT now too?
Yes, the 5 speed is used as it is stronger, while the non turbo benefits from the efficiency of the CVT.
[quote name='angie said:
Do all 2.5 L non turbo models come with cam belts rather than cam chains or which 2.5 L models are chain driven?
Its very confusing... thats why we considered an Atenza Sports wagon.... but hubby hates front wheel drive cars...
Only the 3.0, 3.6 engines are chain driven. 2.5 & turbos are belt.
Can you stretch to the 3.6?
url]http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-831854397.htm[/url]
The Atenza also comes in 4wd, but I wouldn't bother unless it see's the snow.
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Neither of which are available in that model shape.
She is looking at BM/BR.
Just go and look at 3 or 4 of them and pick that one that ticks the most boxes for you, I.e. colour, mileage, condition, price. That is a much better way to buy a car than trying to pick the one specific sub model.
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Yep pretty normal, mine was the top 1cm of travel.
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The 4th generation uses a 5spd auto in almost all cases, no CVT.
There is nothing expensive on the Legacy like a 7 series BMW. One cost $200k the other $60k.
The worst you could come across is the motor of gearbox dying, but that could happen to any car.
SI drive is a bunch of electronic programs as mentioned, applied to facelift 2006-2008 4th generation cars.
I would still get the 5th gen 2.5 turbo as my first choice as it is the best car of the bunch. Good power, reasonable economy and dare i say better resale value (although Legacy's are rubbish for resale), or a 2.5 non turbo if you care not for performance. If you are really worried about stuff dying and unexpected costs then I suggest you purchase a warranty. 3 years should cost about $1400.
The Mazda Atenza among others is probably a better non turbo car.
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No point in the boost controller. Save the pennies and get it tuned.
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Please see the wiki pages on these models. 2008 is 4th generation old shape, 2009-2014 is 5th generation new shape.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy_%28fifth_generation%29
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy_(fourth_generation)
I will assume you are actually looking at 5th generations exclusively.
The non-turbo 4 cylinder models all have CVT trans.
The 2.5 turbo model have either 5 speed auto, or 6 speed manual.
The 3.6 has only the 5 speed auto.
If you look at a car likes it's a toaster then get the 2.5 non turbo. If you have any passing interest in cars, or driving then the 2.5GT turbo is the one to go for.
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Stuff that. If you are contemplating a RB/JZ then sell the piece of **** Subaru and buy a Skyline/Soarer/Chaser.
Waste of time and money on a Legacy.
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A bit pricey, more like $17k.
You can also get a prefacelift for $5k less, basically the same car.
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The FMIC on TT making it laggy is an old wives tale told by people who have no idea what they are talking about. Their general thinking is the large amount of piping takes longer to pressurize, therefore making it laggy. In reality this is just not the case, the turbos can pressurize the system extremely quickly.
There is no comparison between the factory top mount and a front mount, the front mount is that much better.
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Pretty much go single...
My Rev D is about 200wkw now but that is FMIC, downpipes, exhaust, boost controller and retune at 1.2 bar and it still has a hole in the mid range.
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In mixed driving my TT gets me 9.5km/l. Open road would see me at 10.5 or about 550k to the tank.
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18" wheels, trim, Bilsteins standard instead of optional, manual released in 2005 only.
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Yeah the 12kg is heavy as. I am yet to measure them up but I need to find a supplier I guess..
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Hey all,
I just got my car certed with Ohlins adjustable dampers and swift 12kg! springs. Unfortunately the 12kg springs are a little... firm.
Any ideas where I can buy some new springs locally? They appear to be just standard issue springs for adjustable shocks. I am thinking about 8kgs all round, recommendations?
Thanks!
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Ahhh, the 2008 5 spd and 2009 CVT are completely different vehicle models as far as I am aware - totally different cars. Again as far as I am aware the BL/BP didn't come with CVT at all only the 5 speed.
BL/BP vs BM/BR. Pick the model/price you want.
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Except that the other cars all go better
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Boost and Hesitation Problem 2000 BE5B RSK
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Exactly what rpm do you shift?
If it's anywhere near 4000-4500 rpm on load then it is just stuck in secondary mode and needs a couple of seconds to return to primary mode once you change gear.