Doris

Some of these are common sense, but double check them regardless: Subframe bolts Suspension arm bolts Top hats (incl the big one in the centre) Wheel nuts Caliper bolts Cable ties that haven\'t been trimmed of excess Splash guard fasteners Brake hose clips Anything else that\'s flapping around.

thats enough for today, time to head into work early and scab some welding lessons from the foreman >after he teaches me TIG, its seam-welding time! ...because i split the passenger Sill seams with that two wheel incident..

not a silly idea at all.

ahh, I run the 4pm-2am shift, and occassionally I drink too many coffee\'s! not uncommon for me to fall asleep listening to birds. (also, finishing at 2am in the industrial district works out really well for motorsport practice hehehe)

Relevant viewing: (on how much fun these cars are!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=&sns=em

Well, guess I better nab an axle from pickapart and get brainstorming.. @loner, its not turn-in that I\'m hunting, but counter-steer.. 600kg FF\'s are a total hoot on a slippery surface!

Im not planning on machining them THAT far back Borg! But isn\'t the rubber boot pretty much the only thing keeping them captive from stock anyway?

Alright, so my latest stroke of lunacy involves increasing the range of articulation in each of my c.v joints. Something i have absolutely zero experience in. I intend to achieve this by way of machining 1-2mm (or whatever is appropriate) from the outer \'lip\' of each cv housing. They\'re currently stopping me from releasing the full potential of my crafty new steering setup. (I neglected to consider the fact that FF\'s have driveshafts in amongst the steering zone while devising my steering upgrade, based off what I\'d seen on various big-lock drift rwd\'s. that downbuzz moment when I discovered this, post installation, was enough to stir up a personal vendetta against my lame lock-limiting cv\'s) So yeah, I\'m sure to be neglecting some crucial factor or pitfall about this plan?

Cheers Evowrx! Much appreciated. Hmm I\'m gonna follow up on this Trojan lead, it sounds very plausible

Naturally though, im not above just going to pickapart and raiding a whole car of whatever I manage to find that will fit.

I think its all the other dimensions that make it so obscure... I\'m at my workbench right now, so I\'ll post them. Length (overall) 35mm Shank length (threaded) 20mm hub side: Flange O.D 22mm Flange depth 4mm Shank O.D (spline) 14.35mm (outer-most points) Shank depth (spline) 6mm Anything I\'ve neglected to measure, just ask. But yeah this request is more centered on me baulking at the prospect of $10+gst for each single stud&nut.

So I\'ve decided to start this as an online logbook of compatible crossover part numbers and other technical specs for the obscure Ace, partly for personal records, but mainly to make life easy for other/future Ace modders/dedicated owners. The information listed here covers the KG-XX chassis Subaru kei cars sold under the following names: Ace, Fiori, M60/M70/M80, Sherpa, Rex, Viki, Mini Jumbo. my Ace is a 1990 KG5, 4 speed manual with 4 cylinder carburetted 758cc #EN08 engine. you can follow it on facebook @ www.facebook.com/AceTomoNoKai *mods feel free to move this to wherever you see fit, updates will likely be sporadic and far between. As long as it shows up on google when someone searches Subaru ace, I\'ll be happy. so you\'ve got yourself a sweet lil Ace, and you wanna make it more fun to drive? Welcome! This is nowhere near to being an encyclopedia of Ace secrets, it is very much work in progress, so if you know some handy hints that aren\'t listed here, please do contribute! Foreword: to better understand my mindset, you should keep in mind that everything here is all based on personal experience with my 1990 Ace that mum made me buy about a year ago for $800 because "it\'ll save you lots of money on your commute to work" she wasn\'t wrong either, my personal best full tank averaged a skint 4.1L/100km on 98RON. But that\'s not why I love it. I love it because I pedalled it through a Gymkhana season to achieve 1st in open FWD class, and second on points across all classes at the end of season. I\'ve embarrassed many Nissan\'s I\'ve also got this personality clash thing, which kicks in when someone tells me that \'it\' just can\'t be done, or that \'it\' can only be done a certain way and will cost a fortune. Hearing these kinds of responses only makes me more determined to make \'it\' work, my way. Which typically aims for low cost "outside the box" performance upgrades with an air towards drifting and improving the overall drivng experience in various ways. Enough about me, here\'s the stuff you\'re really interested in. Contents in order of posting: 1. Brakes (upgrade these *after* you upgrade the tyres) 2. Steering Interior Drivetrain Chassis Body apologies about the tendancy to ramble. you\'ll just have to deal with it BRAKE SYSTEM Front pads (direct fit) #DB1160-E. I went with european REMSA brand and have no complaints. haven\'t tested them on a circuit yet though Rear Shoes (some modification required) #GS8583YO. TRW brand. these were intended for slightly larger drums than we recieved on nz new models, so you\'ll need to grind about 3-4mm from the sections that seat against the adjustment bar and the wheel cylinder respectively. the slight difference in radius hasnt proven to be an issue after 4 months of daily driving, and if anything, I could do with a lot less rear bias (had some hairy moments in regards to late/hard braking into touge corners where the rear likes to lock up) Wheel Cylinders (oversize bore) #BWD139. Silverline. these are native to the Justy, and half the cost + ten times the availability nationwide as compared to the Ace ones (which are such a small bore that they\'re likely to grenade themselves should you ever introduce a hydro handbrake..) NOTE: these cylinders will increase your pedal travel, giving a spongy feel initially. this is because they are a 3/4" bore, the same as the Ace master cylinders\' bore. the solution is a larger master cylinder. I havent come across the suitable master yet, its not a high priority for me currently. HandBrake Adjustment: underneath car, located near the rear muffler, in the direct middle of the car, with steel linkages running forward to the cockpit. I\'d recommend brakekleen and wire brushing the threads before you try to adjust the nuts, otherwise you\'ll likely snap the linkages. penetrating lubricant wouldnt hurt either. I set mine in such a way that your missus would have trouble getting the brake onto the first click. in operation, it locks the rear consistently, with consumate ease as is usually only found with hydraulic systems. and thats the braking setup in a nutshell. I should note that it\'s a good idea to replace rear wheel bearings when you do the shoes/cylinders. they consist of two sealed bearings per drum, pressed in. I\'m not sure what i did with the part numbers for those, but I used Narchi ones sourced from Auckland Bearing co, $27 for all four at trade. and piss easy to install them, provided you\'ve got a kitchen oven and a Freezer. dont use a hydraulic press, because the bearings sit fractionally proud, and you\'ll likely end up pinching the bearing. STEERING SETUP. >I\'m pretty chuffed with my setup, I did spend several weeks of brainstorming and measuring things to achieve the end result, and I must give credit to Kevin @ ADL Glenfield, who was very helpful throughout the process. I\'ve achieved ~40 Degrees from dead straight to full lock, and theres still lots of potential for more angle, but the C.V joints will need to be modified for that. [*]Ball Joint/ Tie Rod End: #SE-6631, 7313-20020. Three Five Automobile Parts brand (Genuine JDM!!) Native to the Subaru Justy, these are a direct fit when combined with the Tie Rod I\'ve selected. you may need to purchase backing/locking nuts separately (M12x1.25) [*]Tie Rod/Rack End:(modification required) #SR-6100, 53521-SF1-003. Unknown brand (blank white boxes with only the part number) These are native to the B-series Honda Prelude and incorporate a unique inverted/reversed rack-side joint, which allows for increased rack travel. the thread on the outer end needs to be extended along the rod, all the way up to where the hexagonal section begins, its an M12x1.25 thread at both ends. you\'ll also need to shorten the rod a bit, I cant remember exactly how much. you can work out how much by using a vernier caliper to measure the depth of the new Tie Rod End, and then applying that measurement to the end of the tie rod. you want to be able to wind the ball joint almost all the way to the end of the newly threaded section. [*]Rack Spacer/ Lock Washer:(custom machined) these sit inbetween the steering rack and the Tie rod. No part numbers here, just measurements. I.D 12mm x O.D 16mm x W 5.1mm I milled my pair from a solid steel rod, and then carbon-coated them for longevity. Always use a few drops of some type of Thread-Locker on the inner rack-end threads, and you can bin the big washers that came with your Tie rods to gain a few extra degrees, just make sure you do regular spanner-checks. I used some nifty universal fit rack boots, they\'re cheap and easy to source you may find that you now have tyre scrubbing at full lock, but thats easy to counter: Roll your gaurds, bolt-on rollers are best. Wheel Adapters/ Bolt-on spacers (these are a modified item which i\'ll share specs of in the Drivetrain chapter) And the obvious one, ditch your splash gaurds!

A solid 48 hours of viral Facebook fame! And a permanent impression on everyone that was at the track Credit to the GTA video games for hardwiring the recovery instinct into me This actually happened during the cup races too.. Hmmm duals will be a big trade off, need to keep the tail light weight so that it can skim in the wet Sweetzorst though right? Seems that sticking a motorbike can in the tail end is the common choice for other internet-frequenting ace drivers around the world... but I like being stealthy.

Do we have a club sponsor? (or trade affiliated charitable club member Like every other part on the Ace, OEM spec studs are near impossible to source (M12x1.25 -.-) So the sensible option is 16 new wheel studs of the M12x1.5 variety but 16=$200 inc on my trade account at autostop, its down rightt terrifying! So yeah, is there someone on here that can assist with a better option? (nothing fancy, was going for a steel set from Nice Products) Pretty pleeeease? >blank studs would also be an option, I have a 12x1,25 die nut (if blanks actually exist?) Thanks people

Funny you should say that... That was my first skid/slide practice day at meremere.. Needless to say, I pay much more heed to surface dampness (or lack of dampness) before grabbing the handbrake, ever since that incident.

Prelude OEM spec tie rods (shortened and thread extended) Justy OEM spec balljoints 5.1mm washers, milled them myself (thankyou highschool knowledge) $80 spend! Photos here: (yes my car has a facebook page. It roughly translates to "Ace friends meet") Www.Facebook.com/AceTomoNoKai

I almost feel mean posting this, but 4.1L /100km best. 5L /100km average Hehehe

Received. That vivio drivetrain is interesting, could make it fit, and I\'m fairly certain cusco do an LSD unit for vivio...

Bugger! Thanks a million though to all of you! Yup the vivio replaced the ace from mid nineties, I\'ll pm my email.

Oh yeah, reason I ask for this: I live in Auckland, and Ace spares are really rare.. I can justify flying down and loading a rental car up with the whole drivetrain and other parts, if it\'s the ideal drivetrain. Engine bay pics would help me so much too

Website lists there being a manual "1000cc" Ace in their yard... I\'m hoping one of you might be able to quickly jot down the: chassis code, engine code (located under#1 spark plug, stamped onto block) and lastly, how many gears it has. Thanks friends!

Where do you get yours? Would PTFE lined general purpose rose joints be OK for steering joints? Also if anyone else owns an ACE, and decides they need more lock-to-lock.. Well good news! The B chassis Honda prelude tie rods will bolt in to the rack, and simultaneously extend the fulcrum point toward the wheel by a noticeable amount, without using lock-spacers! And thats a $50 pair of performance market spec tie rods Downside to them (I consider it an upside) the Honda ones are 12mm rod diameter, OEM Subaru are 10mm (and bend when you get your ace vert!) So new rod ends are the go... But not a simple bolt up either, as the knuckle hole is 10mm so the rose joint bearing needs to also be 10mm. Now industry standard is that the threaded end of the rose joint directly correlates to the bearing hole size. So no big deal, get 10mm rose joints (Teflon is a must for joint life) and then bore the female end out and tap it with a 12mmx M1.25 thread. You\'ll also need to turn a tapered spacer for the knuckle hole, and attach the rose joint with a hi tensile bolt and spacers either side, which I\'ll go into more detail later, and add photos.

If nolathane and/or whiteline don\'t make the right size piece, you can have them custom made by any number of companies. Autolign is surefire bet, also Advanced Seals and Services (auckland) as many seals are turned from urethane

(disclaimer: a silly joke, you shouldn\'t try this) So you/your wife/ the apprentice/ some punter has gone and filled the tank with diesel? Oh crap! But not to worry, the mechanical abbo knows what to do! >push your sweet ride over to the inflation station > now get down under your motorized rollingham > remove two of those fuel lines from the tank > cut the brass valve off of the tyre inflation hose >jam it over one of the tank fittings >hit the flat tyre button and get away! >wait. This is all kinds of exciting and beats getting fuel in your mouth from siphoning like a philistine

I\'d have to commit to not having it as my daily ever again, or even on the street.. But damn it would be a hoot! Picked up an old Suzuki GS125 today as a new daily project, $100 bargain find! 2 stroke wheelie machine! So I may cut up the back end of the ace yet