ginganinja
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Posts posted by ginganinja
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Mine is a version 5 STi Ra limited
Perhaps the dash should be black, and is just super faded.
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Hey guys,
I am just tidying up my interior in my car and am going to repeat the dash board because it is faded, however there is a bit going on with the colour scheme in these cars and I am not sure what I should be colour matching the dash board too.
The door cards are a real dark grey, on the top half, and light grey bottom half., and then the handles on them are a grey colour halfway between the two.
Anyone know if the dash should match one of these colours?
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1 hour ago, Gripless said:
Isn’t it meant to be within 30-40cm so it stays nice and hot.
that HPC coating will help.
needs to be away from where moisture can settle on it too.I'm not sure how far away it should or shouldnt be. But I'm just hesitant to wreck the hpc coating by cutting a hole and welding a new port in the right spot on the bellmouth.
If I do have to do this I probably will because finding an aftermarket stainless front pipe for the GC8 chassis with 02 port correct is a mission.
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I have a 3 inch hks catless downpipe on my GC8 that has the top 02 port in the wrong place so the sensor hits the clutch master.
Any of this know if there would be any issues in relocating the O2 sensor tot he port that is at the bottom end of the downpipe?
Pipe has already been HPC coated so want to try and avoid cutting and welding if I can.
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I was looking at ones done less than 100ks
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No such thing as importing a pre 2000 wrx for 10k nowadays.
I had a look not so long ago and you would be Be very lucky to import a pre 2000 STI done low kms for under 18k by the time it is landed in the country.
Most of the imports on trade me are low kms STI's. Unfortunately there are not many of these cars around now, and prices in Japan have gone up for them and hence they are slowly getting more expensive here too.
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2 minutes ago, Gripless said:
Not in the service manuals PDF links that are floating around on here either?
Cant say I've checked. Where would I find them?
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27 minutes ago, Gripless said:
Partsouq parts diagram may help. Chuck an RA chassis number in and see what comes up.
Yer I've punched my RA chassis number in numerous times but it doesnt seem to show anything for the roof scoop.
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Hey guys,
Wondering if anyone can help me install my roof vent back into my RA. Been a couple of years since I pulled it out to do my restoration, and it's about the only thing I didnt take photos of before hand.
I have gone to put it together and everything is good but I have two washers about 10mm ID and 14mm OD. And I am not sure where these go. Do they go on the little grommet that is on top of the roof vent itself?
Wondered if anyone with an Ra that has the stock roof vent could check this out.
Cheers.
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Upgrade to a 94 Sti Ecu, STI VF28 /VF23 or similar and yellow sti injectors and be done.
Should be able to get all second hand for good price.
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Theres two black, two red and two yellow wires. I will need to check the wiring diagram for the gauges to confirm what they all do. I think last time I just put each of the two together and matched them to same colours from the headunit
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i'm installing some classic Lamco Gauges into my GC8 and was just after some tips on how i should wire in the power wire. or What i should tap into?
the last time i had them installed i think i tapped into the power wire on the headunit and the lights on the gauges would run full time, so it was hard to see the markings during the day. however this time around i want the lights to only come on when the headlights have been turned on.
has anyone had experience of installing these gauges?
be glad of your response
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Ok so I solved the issue and not sure what was causing the problem but here's how it went.
Removed each injector and reinstalled them. I figured that at least this would mean fuel would leak into the cylinder and hopefully fire.
Bingo. Engine purring like it should.
Not sure if there must have been air in the system or what but it's running mint now.
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25 minutes ago, Gripless said:
Does the ecu have a good crank and cam sensor reading. Maybe it’s not turning on the injectors until it knows the timing is correct.
You said same loom but is it same ecu as well? Any chance the pins are wrong or possibly a ground missing.
Same loom and same ecu. How would I know the cam sensor readings? Pins have not been touched.
I am guessing crank and cam sensors are working ok as I have plenty of spark.
Also have grounds on by the starter motor and ground on the front radiator support.
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After some help getting my engine running.
Installing motor back into my car finally butbj cant get it running. I have done split rail system using two factory regs. Using the same engine loom that it was running on last time it was going, v5-6 yellow injectors from another car but same injector. I have spark and plenty of compression. However I have the issue where the injectors are not pulsing. I can't hear any ticking noise through screw driver when turning car over.
Car cranks over but doesn't fire, also fuel is getting through the system and all fuel hoses are plumbed correctly. Fuel pump is priming as it should etc.
Injectors all check to have no resistance and engine loom has checked out good.
Is there anything else I need to check or am missing??, I am a bit stumped.
Car ran perfect last time it started.
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50 minutes ago, GC8E2DD said:
But it's a helical front diff right, not a plated one?
Yes it is helical LSD.
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That's interesting. I have always been under the impression that you needed LS capable oil with the LS front diff. Was running short of time so ended up getting the 300 LS 75w90 yesterday. Will use for both box and rear diff.
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Ok guys, I am just wanting to confirm. How much Oil does the 5 speed gearbox take? And how much oil does the rear diff take?
Is 5l going to be enough?
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2 hours ago, GC8E2DD said:
I've been running Motul Gear 300 in my 1CA and 1EA for years. No complaints, and they used to get a pretty hard workout on a regular basis.
just so i am clear, you run the Motul Gear 300 or the Motul Gear 300 LS?
And also while i am at it what do you run in your rear Diff? i am guessing you have an R180 LSD?
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35 minutes ago, Dairusire said:
Castrol Syntrax.
To the best of my knowledge, it's what the cars are serviced with, and I've never had any issues with it being in my DCCD 5 speed or my S204 box.
Just the standard syntrax 75w90?
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Ok so a bit of a thread revival. Still get very mixed opinions on this topic around DCCD gearbox oils.
I am up to doing my gearbox oil again in my rebuilt 5 speed DCCD box.
Gearbox number TY754B1EA
So this has the helical front diff. Last time I used Motul FF Type 2 LSD 75w90. However i cant get any of this till mid jan and I was hoping to be starting the car this weekend.
What oils are others using in this gearbox? Do I need and LSD oil for the box and front diff due to the Helical front LSD? What alternatives are there to the mogul I have mentioned?
Look forward to your responses.
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10 hours ago, gotasuby said:
Get rid of it
That's kind of what I'm thinking
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Hey there,
Just wondered if anyone has a reference for torque settings. In particular the following.
Front control arm torque settings? For front inner bush, antilift kit bolts.
Ball joint and tie rod end castle nut torque settings.
Top strut bolt torque settings. Both actual strut bolt and the three mounting bolts
Axle hub nuts torque.
Gearbox mount torque settings.
Be glad of anyone's help.
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Hey guys,
I am getting closer to the end of my project and wondering what to do about my turbo timer. Car has one installed however, from memory it didnt always work, and I never figured out how to sort it out.
Is anyone running turbo timers these days?
Just wondering, should I get a new one? Fix this one? Or get rid of it altogether?
Are they really needed? As I'm not sure that I really need it.
Be glad of some feedback.
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V5 STI Ra interior colours
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
My whole interior is out of the car, and I am getting trimfix to do it.