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So a Possum Link has surfaced on TM that will suit my WRX. Excuse my ignorance, but what can I expect (power, economy...?) by swapping out the computer for aforementioned unit? And what is involved? Can I plug and play or do I need someone to do the once over once it\'s on board? I\'ve got a 97 JDM spec model (VF22 turbo) and it\'s completely stock w/relatively low k\'s. I\'m keen to keep it that way but I am receptive to messing about with the ECU as it\'s fairly non invasive. I\'d appreciate any input, I\'m not completely inept with these things but it\'s been a long time since I\'ve mucked about with engines and most my experience is with carby wankels

Thanks for that. [quote name='Koom said: If you want better economy, buy a Primera. I\'m not a strict economy nazi so to speak, I\'m just trying to get decent km\'s cruising about in the 100-120kmph range as I have a 1500km drive ahead of me.

\'97 JDM w/(reconditioned 20,000km ago)VF22, maintained in completely stock form.

When does my turbo start to spool up proper? I assume it is 3k RPM but just want to be sure. Looking to reinstate some normal economy to my open road driving and I can\'t help but feel cruising on boost, whilst cinveneint when needing to overtake, is going to have efficiency ramifications!

Last night I was driving home, I hadn\'t really been spooling up the turbo and I notcied the pedal sunk to it\'s recessed position. I then was able to flick it back out to it\'s normal position. So a preliminary diagnosis would be a spring missing from the slave cylinder... Can I do something to make it stick near the floor, always? Makes for happy shifting I rekkin. Ta

I\'m essentially taking the year of work to spend a month in the French Alps (Chamonix) and then the balance of the year in Wanaka to climb steep faces and bomb big slopes on my skiis in the Southern Alps - hence I am planing far in advance and budget is tiiiight. Anyone know if I can fit four factory 16" alloys w/tires in the boot of a GC8 sedan??

Whilst we\'re at it, I should apologise for poor articulation/terminology in the field of engine starting.

Interesting. Glad I asked!

Cracking input lad\'s (or lasses?). I plan on buying another set of factory alloys, as you say, and will run them as/when the mercury drops below 7deg. I wasn\'t aware of the decreased speed rating but I don\'t expect I\'ll be travelling at full tilt over winter anyway. Out of curiosity, what speed are they comfortable (not capable) travelling at? Just thinking about the odd desperate overtake in my turbocharged Impreza. Also, this whole sipes concept is foreign to me so I appreciate the tip off. Constructive responses so many thanks!

I look for a full 8mm of tread, and square blocks (not wriggly) with sharp snipes. Do you know if the attributes for dirt/grass performance are transferable to snow/ice? Obviously, the full 8mm tread is a gimmie but the actual tread profile etc?

Good call. I have noticed that they are coming over on the Jap cars. I\'ve imported a few myself that had them in the past. Hopefully cop a set of alloys and rubber at a decent price then. Currently looking to score B/stone Blizzak unless someone can suggest otherwise [quote name='JoKer said: or ask at and tire shop : as stated they dont get highly rated here espeically in the North Island where snow trips are basically non existient Noted. Ta

Okay, sweet. That is a good synopsis. And I appreciate you taking the time to explain that further for me. But as you\'ve stipulated... [quote name='Flat4 said: In reality, unless you are Colin Mcrae it isn\'t going to help you 99.99999% of the time haha I rekkin you\'re totally on point there. I can\'t decide if touching the break to overcome understeer is really viable for a street driven car given the shear loading it\'ll place on all the drivetrain!! If I had a team of mechnaics and works sponsorship backing me I\'d be all over this. So about my wandering clutch peddle....

Any recommendations?

Off topic, but why do you want to left foot break? Left foot breaking is dumb unless you can cluthless shift every time with proper sync but even then you\'re going to F up your synchromesh at some point no matter how good you are!! Especially on these 4WD\'s, I\'d totally not risk it. Surely the heel toe would be a better technique for aggressive breaking (read: fangin\' the $*** out\'ve your poor car)!?

Yeah, sorry. Been years since I\'ve messed about with cars The peddle certainly returns to it\'s neutral position every time, but sometimes said position is nearer the front of the car. The amount that it\'s varies by is essentially useless as the actual clutch doesn\'t seem release until the pedal is past the foot rest. If that makes sense. Strange.

So after I boot my car and let it warm up a bit the clutch is usually still a fair way toward the rear of the car in relation to the foot rest. BUT sometimes, the peddle sits nicely, almost perfectly, adjacent to the foot rest. Usually after is warmed up proper. Which is the <i>normal</i> position? And what does this varying play/movement amount to? The clutch has some 20,000km on it. Could it be high/low spots? I definitely prefer it when it rides right next to the foot rest. Any insight would be appreciated. Muchas gracias

Heh, would that then classify my whip as <i>wide body</i>?? Any actual solutions?

Anyone used them? Moving to Wanaka for the winter and thinking I\'ll save my summer tires and get improved traction through the cold month with them on. Thoughts? Recommendations?

Anyone know what the options are for mounting roof racks on a \'97 Impreza sedan? Can I use the <i>gutters</i> that run over the roof? I\'m not fond of gutterless options with the frameless doors. Do the GF8 side rails bolt up? Going to be living in Wanaka next year and would rather the sleds go on the roof than in the cabin if possible. Cheers

So essentially my whip has been treated like a b*tch. This echoes my experience with piston slap on other vehicles but I\'ve read comments online that insinuate the problem is inherent in these engines. Based on your comment and my experience; I\'d say the only thing inherent is that owners of these things can\'t resist driving aggressively when the engine is inadequately warm?

Cheers dude. Sounds like that but not so loud. I was kinda hoping someone would suggest it may be a lifter problem. I will see if I can find a member here to check it out for me or ask for a recommendation for a mechanic in the AKL thread.

I\'ve got a \'97 WRX; ca. 120,000k\'s, completely stock and has been maintained to a good standard. I test drove the car after I met the seller and he had travelled an hour or so to meet me so didn\'t notice any abnormal noise in the engine (assume because engine was warm). Now, having owned it for a few days, I notice there is a small amount of piston slap(?). In my around town driving, it\'s yet to subside. It\'s very subtle and can\'t be heard over the (factory) exhaust/turbo spool at higher revs. Should I worry or is this problem negligible in these engines? (reading mixed opinions) I\'ll compression test later this week; what figures should the engine with this many km\'s be achieving? What oil can anyone recommend to mitigate the sound? I\'ve read mixed reviews on-line from North American forums so thought I\'d ask those closer to home. With regard to warming this thing up; when the temp gauge reaches it\'s median, is the sensor reading the block or is it the oil temp? I ask because when I drove it home (Tauranga to Auckland) I heard it backfire a few times but when I drive around town the temp gauge reads the same and obviously the car was a lot warmer when it was BF\'ing so I\'m trying to understand how to understand my wrx better. Who is most fit to diagnose this properly for me in Auckland? Ta muchly in advance.