steve118

did that, everything was making noises. and quite a noticeable ticking noise coming from around the intercooler area?

started off with just keys in ON position, then i checked with engine on. no difference. i just had another play just now and i noticed the secondary was working this time with controller off, but i still cant go past 10psi on either primary or secondary turbos

one black and one green i got 62 & 65 two greens i got 62 two green and two black i got 33, 51, 62

i found two green and two black. not sure if its just me being dumb but i couldnt connect the two greens together? connected one green and one black and got codes 62 & 65

just under the dash? tips on which ones to spot? quite a few under there...

no idea what the problem is. all the wiring seems to be correct? even with controller off i get the same error 62 and secondary still doesnt work and boost cuts at 10psi. coming to the conclusion that its a faulty unit? maybe?

just taken it for another drive. this time i got up to 7000rpm but secondary turbo did not seem to kick in at all. and now the boost cuts on primary at like 4 psi. very frustrating. will look at the wiring again now

at 10 psi it goes into limp mode. ive only been to 4k rpm, but i believe it will also cut at 4500? switchover worked fine before it was put in. not sure about now as it is in limp mode, even with controller turned off. it has decatted stock exhaust system with a bullet pipe in its place.

as far as im aware its all wired in correctly. dip switches all in correct settings. i did use that same wiring diagram you linked as well. car stops boosting at 10psi and. havent gotten to 4500rpm because i reach 10psi quicker.

UPDATE: Im mainly posting this late update as it may be helpful to other members in the future when using the search feature. Problem: there were 4 short circuits detected. all of which were in the front right guard. Will post some pictures ASAP. So there was no need for me to replace ABS Pump at all, oh well.

update: contacted the person i bought it from who told me they had to put the ground to chassis. In the process of "un-splicing" the ground from controller to ecu and moving it to a spot on chassis.

thats another question ill have to ask... timaru is a bit far to go to try another controller!!

im pretty sure they are set properly. rev b-c were both the same and im 99% sure my car is not a rev a. where are you located bro?

So as expected the codes are 65/62 Can't seem to clear the codes as they just keep on coming back and solenoids have been replaced but still getting the CEL. Does anyone in Auckland have a spare controller I could try to see if that is the fault?

dont forget to mention where the last one was my brain is fried

bit confused there mate? haha Mine is 3 plug Yours is 4 plug!? mechanic told me about the CEL. ill call up tomorrow and see what info i can get from him

is that a 3 plug? my 4g is a 3 plug. another question: does it ever go into limp mode while boosting or only when u first start the car?

fair enough. if you dont mind me asking, what ecu have you got in yours? do you only get the diff pressure sensor error now?

it didnt put your car in limp mode? i have an avs s5 alarm with built in turbo timer so shouldnt be an issue? did you figure a work around or is it still like it today?

hi everyone car is a 1997 legacy wagon bg5 (2nd gen) i am installing a zerosports sequential boost controller but have come across the isse that it is throwing a check engine light every now and then i dont have the car with me as it is at the mechanics, so i dont know the CEL code right now. but has anyone else come across this issue before? or even better, has anyone installed one on a bg5 with the 4G Ecu? thanks guys

once again, i wouldnt mind that clue

out of interest, where was the last one?

nice one bro look forward to the new spot.

i will try and upload a better photo asap

old: outside easiyo headquarters up in albany new: yes i know, i need to invest in a camera... my iPhone just doesnt do it for me...