kamineko
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Posts posted by kamineko
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not entirely sure that's an RA engine, V2 STI more likely
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Just kicking this off pretty sure tim did it last year. Basically this is a thread for any thoughts you have regarding the club and forum. Any thoughts welcome from members new and old.
What did you sign up for?
How to turbo my Dads '94 TS wagon. lol
Where did you hear about clubsub?
Ray & Rics classic front windscreen banners in Dunners
What would you like to see more of?
DIY 'how to' meets (brakes etc) so we can spread good education
If you often visit but never post is there a reason or do you feel you get what you need without asking?
I lurked for bloody ages (years) before turning up for a meet. Guess I was shy with so many cool cats around
Is there anything that you don't like?
Forum bugs, my 2500 unread PMs and that Comcom type discussions have ended up in PM's rather than documented on the board somewhere
What would persuade you to become a paid member?
Enough cash in my bank account come renewal time
Are the forums/stickys easy enough to follow?
I'm mostly responsible for the large number of subforums, but it hasn't worked and needs to be simplified after some decent planning. Yes Becca, ya told me so.
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Really good documentation here, thanks for the continued contribution
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i've got the old club documents in storage. ill have a look this weekend and see if anything is worth putting up
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To blank off the port, get a 1994ish Toyota Corolla sump plug from Repco. Comes with a plastic washer.
If you're crafty about it, you could do it without an additional circuit, you could just take the line off the back of the head, run it through a separate radiator (I'm thinking where the TMIC sits) then through the turbo and back to header tank...
I think that defeats the purpose, you want to remove the turbo-generated heat from the coolant eh?
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lol, CHECK the plugs, then replace if needed
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Not to be a buzzkill but I'm skeptical as to how moving it away from the cam pully would help a faulty sensor. Normally the failure mode is an open or intermittent soldered joint inside the molded plastic, or crap on the sensor face. I wonder if the process of refitting the sensor is adding a few more weeks to its life. (I used to have someone crank the engine while I wiggled the sensor just to get a dead sensor to work long enough to start)
Different models seem to display different symptoms. Earlier Subys simply won't start with a bad cam sensor and it seems the newage+ are more sensitive and bring up CEL's while driving which may disable the variable valve timing system. My brothers V7 STI drove poorly with intermittent CELS until he replaced an iffy cam sensor.
I will attack a sensor in the weekend and take some pics
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subscribed. would that npt adapter be similar to whats already used on the factory oil pressure switch?
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Ok thanks Ross. I'll measure the spring and go from there
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I recently cleaned and refitted my EJ20G oil pump however I was browsing some Japanese blog and found these pictures of things he'd replaced
Is the shiny wear detrimental to the pump's operation? I assume that part regulates the oil pressure.
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Hub Selection for 2 pot Rears – for a V1-6 GC/GF
Hubs that CAN be used for 2 pot rear conversion on an R160 car ONLY.
Fortunately for v7/8 WRX (not considering v9+ due to PCD change) [/u]
have r160 hubs AND they have the narrow bolt spacing (these also come with 2 pot rears from factory).
Also worth noting in this selection process.. the r160/80 hub selection will determine the handbrake shoe diameter. This affects which rotor you chose for 2 pot rears:
For a r180 based set up you pick a rotor normally for a v4/6 STI RA or R.
For a r160 based set up you pick a rotor normally for a V7/8 WRX (not STI).
OK think I understand this now
[table=class: grid]
[tr][td]Model[/td][td]Fronts[/td][td]Rears[/td][td]Diff[/td][td]Rear Rotor[/td][td]Rear Rotor Size[/td][td]Rear Rotor Part#[/td][td]Rear Baking Plate Part#[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]JDM BD/BG turbo[/td][td]2pot sliding[/td][td]1pot sliding[/td][td]R160[/td][td]solid[/td][td]266x18(170)mm[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]
[tr][td]JDM BE/BH[/td][td]2pot sliding[/td][td]1pot sliding[/td][td]R160[/td][td]solid[/td][td]290x10(170)mm[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]
[tr][td]JDM BE/BH RS/GTB RS30[/td][td]2pot sliding[/td][td]1pot sliding[/td][td]R160[/td][td]vented[/td][td]290x18(170)mm[/td][td]26700AE030 / DBA653[/td][td]26704AE020 & AE030[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]JDM GDA WRX NA / NB[/td][td]2pot sliding[/td][td]1pot sliding[/td][td]R160[/td][td]solid[/td][td]266x10(170)mm[/td][td]26310AA051[/td][td]26255AA061 & AA071[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]JDM GDAC WRX NB-R[/td][td]4pot[/td][td]2pot[/td][td]R160[/td][td]vented[/td][td]290x18(170)mm[/td][td]26700AE030 / DBA653[/td][td]26704FE090 & FE080[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]JDM GDB STI Sedan[/td][td]4pot gold brembos[/td][td]2pot gold brembos[/td][td]R180[/td][td]vented[/td][td]316x20(190)mm[/td][td]26700FE000[/td][td]26704FE000 & FE010[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]JDM GGB STI Wagon[/td][td]4pot[/td][td]2pot[/td][td]R180[/td][td]vented[/td][td]290x18(190)mm[/td][td]26710FA130 / DBA656[/td][td]26704FE020 & FE030[/td][/tr]
[/table]
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remind me to take a picture of how to repair these suckers
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this is probably irrelevant but I was looking at a slightly different shifter mechanism used in the BE/BH legacy today. where did the box come from?
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ouch.. wouldn't it be cheaper / easier exercise to have the part welded back on in situ?
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do you have a link to 'air bag thing'?
is it an air bag delete? if so, before CS jumps on the parental bandwagon, maybe explain to your actual parents that you are removing the airbag and see what they say
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I remember in my younger years when I wanted to slap a turbo on dads 2L NA
it sounds like a simple plan until you understand why it isn't easy/worthwhile/economic. so really there's no harm discussing these things
EDIT ok I just read the EJ15+T thread.. yeah.. nahh.. lol
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I don't have a link, but give Crowesport (CHCH) a call. They fitted ours and would know about any option for 1.5L
converting to DOHC sounds like an interesting idea HOWEVER there is more to it than just slapping on some heads. To be honest any increase would be marginal without a tune, and a wasted effort. Oscar in DN just DOHC'd a 2.2L for fun but he had to get specific headgaskets from the states and I'm not sure it was worthwhile in the end. Have to ask him.
I'm not even sure any DOHC head would physically fit an ej15
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EJ154
Horsepower: 100 PS (74 kW; 99 bhp) at 5,200 rpm
Torque: 142.0 N·m (105 lb·ft) at 4,000 rpm
phwwwoaaaarrr
I was probably thinking of some lean-burn variant...
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no experience with the EJ15 however you could de-cat and fit extractors. it'll be louder, and loose a little low end torque, but be more fun higher in the rev range. worked well on our DOHC NA EJ20
you didn't mention what year. arn't some of the newer 1.5's pretty trick? maybe i'm dreaming
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that would generally indicate an open diff which is pretty common. what version RA is it? only a few specific models had the helical as factory fitment. do you have a gearbox code?
just to add, the wheel spin test only works if the diff has a preload. i'm not sure that applies to a helical. which is probably why you are asking...
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laptimes updated and back online
not sure how to fix the double spacing yet but meh
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have directed reuben here.. interesting thread
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yeah i have this issue occasionally, usually after long periods of being parked up. always gives me a fright though!
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mechanically, could it be a leaking injector/seal? my legacy has a bad earth somewhere and the TPS signal randomly goes high, resulting in extra fuel at throttle off = pop fart bang on overrun
i guess see if its still a problem after a few tanks of your usual fuel
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Brakes suitable for trackday
in Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Posted
Good advice from GC8E2DD
Even try some 2nd hand rotors from the wreckers, or get the current ones machined. You want to find out why they are distorting before you ruin new expensive parts. I found out the hard way that worn front wheel bearings killed my new DBA's in a morning session