gazzy2000
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Posts posted by gazzy2000
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met him at mega meet, cant remember his name on here.. anyone know?
cheers
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SVX - cheezey ad, cheezey music LOL
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i pulled the whole cruise components from a BG5, found the right diagram, didnt think it was that hard, but never actually wired it in...
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remove rust and paint the easy way
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v7 sti struts = straight fit into BG5 and a nice ride!
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Hey, post up some links to jap car auctions and places to buy engines here yea?
cud google it obviously but may as well let ppl that already use 'known good' sites post here..
dunno if there is a thread already like this.. will simply remove this one if there is
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porsche
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russian tractor
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be careful out there.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8KpggMEdBM&feature=endscreen
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gangnam style
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RX2 vid, dunedin http://vimeo.com/39467005
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seen this
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from the link, its the one called Possum_link_v5, also have a look at the A3 v5 WRX joined diagrams
https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=cfa30f34a9604d4a#cid=CFA30F34A9604D4A&id=CFA30F34A9604D4A%21169
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Here is the latest split fuel rail mod i did on a mates car, heres the break down:
This method does away with using dual regs and reuses your factory reg & same fuel rails with some tweaks..
- used the orginal single fuel reg (dont need to buy another fuel rail with reg to do the dual reg setup)
- the fuel rail that normally has the reg (drivers side) has the metal fuel line cut and flared
- the passenger fuel rail is not cut or flared at all.. i.e. used in its factory form
- the fuel rail that normally has the reg (drivers side) has the factory reg removed and the fuel rail adaptor with elbo fitted
- the factory reg is mounted to an old Twin Turbo Ignitor bracket, and as we found out, for stock engines with stock BOV, the location of the reg in the pic below is actually in the road of the BOV assembly, it does however sit nicely in that threaded bolt hole on the bell housing of the short block (where sum relocate the knock sensor to)
- in bound fuel comes in to a T under the manifold then split off to both rails
- fuel hose is proteced with heavy duty fire guard sheathing/armour
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PP 13b RX7 battle corvette 10mins long, sounds mean
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whats the intake hose like? (airbox to turbo under manifold) its not frayed/warn by the turbo underneath.. (common as)
also check knock sensor for condition, could be cracked and borked etc, + maybe consider the fuel pump and/or fuel filter if never been done/changed/replaced etc (fuel filter +/- $30 from BNT)
when reseting the ECU a battery disconnect is not the proper way for doing this, you have to use the plugs under the dash.. as follows:
- with engine fully warmed up:
- turn off the car n plug in green to green & black to black
- turn Key On Engine Off (KOEO) all sorts will start clicking and fans will turn on etc as it self tests components
- press accelerator pedal full down for 3 secs then back up to half way for 3 more
- start car, dont drive under 11KPH (no boosting) and IIRC not over 40kph for 3-5mins
- engine check light will come flashing all clear or will present a code if the prob is still present
- once done pull over, turn car off, unplug plugs
then drive normally (incl boosting through rev ranges etc) and the ECU will now relearn all settings including signals from new sensors, this proper ECU reset sets the ECU to factory which means old corrupt signals it learnt from faulty sensors are forgotten and it learns everything fresh
this is how i have always done it with great success, must be done whenever changing any sensors i.e. o2 sensor
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when i change from first gear before vod and hook second and plant it, should i be instantly on boost from primary turbo or not? or is this the way they are, non responsive and a bit of a slug?? if you rape it it doesnt hesitate, pulls nicely to redline
summary: yes they are all like this, more or less, i will go out on a limb here n say Twin Turbo owners that say their cars go well are delusional and have prolly never owned a WRX .. BAM! spray and walk away ;D
Twin turbos suck ass ;D
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LOL Gilbert Gottfried Reads Fifty Shades of Grey
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5K1RcKJVbHA&feature=player_embedded
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I did the same thing years ago and ended up drilling a couple of small holes either side of the bolt so that you could see the weld nut behind the panel. Then plug welded the nut back to the sheetmetal using the bolt to pull it up against the rear. Right pain in the ass!. Might need to cut the head off the bolt to get the seat off first though.
yea this happened to me too... took to an engineer and had them weld the nut and use a tap to clean up the thread etc etc
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MBA actors with Gary
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whos the chch member with two RXII's Leones?
in General Vehicle Discussion
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Cheers!