Skatieguy
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Posts posted by Skatieguy
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Had my new rolling body delivered to me. Will be ready for a clean once she runs.
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I've got some aftermarket rear 2 pots that bolt straight up to BE/BH hubs. Essentially the same as the Subaru 2 pot rears (same pads and discs) but "Axis" branded off the top of my head. Could be a cheaper option..
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Have you tried replacing the sensor? I had one that would "randomly" throw a code and lose power etc etc and ended up actually being the DPS.
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Gave the project car a bit of a tidy up inside and a vacuum, turns out under all the tools, dust, stones, rubber mats and the odd part I've replaced, there's a nice and tidy set of factory floor mats. With the drivers one looking even tidier than my old one.
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I have one in waikite valley, heading in to town on Friday.
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Bought a V7 STi back in Feb 2012
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There's a guy on fb selling them + rear seats and floor mats for 2k ono
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Yeah would be was a step up from the BH for me ...onto my second BP now previous was NZ NEW ..do miss the 260kmh clock + 6 airbags etc ....brilliant car...am actually looking to buy a set of B=spec 18's interested what size tyres you run 215/40 or 215/45 ? are they 7 or 7.5 wide ?
I believe they are 225/40's, not sure on rim width.
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Ended up buying an NZ new pre facelift spec B H6 manual with all the factory goodies and a few extras. It's certainly a big step up in comfort and smoother power delivery over an old BD legacy.
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McDoof']It may be worth double checking that. This is information I got from a thread on the Aussie forums some time ago, but I have never actually checked it.
The post facelift also gets a 1MB ECU rather than a 512K version, so the engine is a bit smoother due to having more granular ECU tables to work with.
I say go drive a few of them and pick the one the feels the best. I drove about 15 cars before I finally picked one.
Then get it remapped. Even without any modifications you will get a huge improvement in midrange torque. For me it changed me from liking my car to loving it.
Would the difference in the ECUs affect the fuel efficiency and power after tune or not enough of a difference to matter? My location is a bit sh*t for test driving cars as well as my time off. I'm more than happy to test drive one and if I like it then take it, knowing that I will be modding things here and there to make it handle better or sound/perform better post tune. $$$ and km's also matter to me and the pre facelift is a fair bit cheaper.
[quote name='Semaphore said:
@Skatieguy: I drove the 2.5T NZ New Spec B you linked, I'm not sure if you have driven it. I felt a hestitation/stutter in the turbo when on boost, so much so that even my wife who knows nothing about cars asked if I let off the accelerator. Exterior/Interior is far superior than the JDM GTs you get though, unless of course they had all the same options ticked.Nah I didn't test drive it, I've still got some vehicles to get rid of before I buy another one. Stuff like that is why I'd pick the 3.0 over either turbo model.
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The facelift H6 Manual has mostly cosmetic changes. There are some minor changes to the gearbox. AFIAK they switched to a standard STI unit in the facelift, whereas the pre facelift had a slightly longer 6th gear and a more angled cut on the gears to make it smoother on changes.
I like the facelift look a little better but I think a longer 6th and smoother shifts trumps that. I think pre facelift will be the go if that's the case.
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After reading the comments the H6 manual still seems to be the go. Is the facelift version worth the extra coin or will I just be paying extra for stuff I won't/will hardly ever need? Any better handling etc?
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Yeah the price difference is hard to justify for the manuals really, I can then see myself modding it more (eg full exhaust vs just mufflers), if it's really that dull I could buy a cheap GC8 like I've always wanted as well and still come out better off than just a manual one.
- I'm now shopping for a manual turbo BG5 wagon to tidy up and have some fun with on weekends to keep the turbo/manual part of me happy.
How rough of a BG5 are you looking for? I have a relatively rough one for cheap with a mint low ks 5 speed (my old BD5 one) in it if you're interested..
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I'm currently considering making the jump up to a BL5 or BLE. I would get an ecu tune whatever the purchase was. I think the flat 6 would be the #1 choice, followed by the NZ new 2.5 turbo then twin scroll 2.0, but still stuck on whether I want the 6 speed or auto box, ideally a spec B 6 speed but I want cruise control seeing as it's an option, which really narrows the options and seems to up the price substantially (facelift only?).
e.g:
pre facelift 3.0r auto: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1041027888
facelift spec b 3.0 manual: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1044996246
facelift nz new 2.5T manual: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1045688058
Are there any other factory upgrades I would be missing out on other than the 6 speed by not choosing a spec B?
Must do mods on a flat 6 prior to a tune, versus a turbo one?
So, how do you guys like your motor/box combo, are you still happy with it or would trade it for a different combo? Or any opinions on my current situation would be appreciated (always owned turbo manuals, could live with n/a but ideally keep manual, had x2 6 speeds x1 5 speed Subarus).
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You need an OBD II reader.
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Changed oil and filter, changed the front discs back to the "old" new ones. Seems to have fixed what weird noises were generated at approx 50km/h driving. Fixed up the gear surround a bit with a V7 STi boot and modified boot surround. Much better than the old hori one that wasn't really connected to anything other than the gear stick itself.
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Swapped out the rear sway bar, front and rear sway bar links, Bled the brakes, few other bits that I will write up on in the next few days...
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Almost ready for a clean
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Re added an a/c condenser to the main car to stop this:
and this:
from happening. Also gave the headlights a bit of cut n shine for the first time ever. No pics but they look a lot cleaner now.
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No she'd been parked up for 9 or so months before I bought it and still been mainly sitting since then. Done 150km in about a year (assuming parked up since rego on hold). If what's been done to it were true I would imagine it was straight water since the heads were reconned and since the recon was just parked up so no anti freeze added.
I'll find out if they're blown when we strip out all the good bits. Will leave it parked up again now until she needs moving.
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So I've just finished taking my GT-B for a 40 minute drive. The water temp gauge "randomly" jumps up, and randomly climbs up a few notches while driving, slowly going back down to normal temp (times seemed to vary), wasnt until 3/4 of the way through the drive it the temp first jumped on the gauge. Also driving up a big hill near my house will get to about 3/4 temp driving slowly, last time I drove it up there nearly cooked it according to the gauge. Is this something that would happen if it had a blown head gasket? There's no oil in the water or vice-verse, no smoke/steam coming out the exhaust. However the header tank gets lots of tiny bubbles/frothy type with the cap off, and the overflow bottle gets bubbles this size pictured below:
*Yes I'm aware the water is incredibly yuck.
Thoughts? BHG or something else?
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Anyone know if a GC8 rear strut brace will fit into a BD5? Don't really see much online about them
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What's the better primary turbo, VF 18 (BD/BG manual) or VF 25 (BE/BH auto)? Seems I have a VF 25 on the GT-B and I know of a cheap primary that I can replace it with. Worth replacing my current VF 18 or just keep it as a spare for when it finally dies? I'm mainly interested in primary spool/power and the one least affected by VOD if the primary actually matters in that regard.
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Help please! V7 STI
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
Yep this is the issue according to FB he has oil in the loom