Skatieguy
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Posts posted by Skatieguy
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Differential pressure sensor if it's twin turbo
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The 2 pipes coming off the turbos and going into the top mount stay where they are, and the first bit of FMIC piping is bolted onto these or vice-verse. One of the 2 has the IACV which is closed on primary only and opened during vod/ secondary. I'm sure someone else can explain it better than me.
MAF to under intake mani pipe is a slight improvement. I believe the one linked is the incorrect size for ours but I could be wrong. ZeroSports do a stainless one if that's what you're after.
I've got an MBC on mine and it seems to do OK. Don't think there's much benefit in using an EBC over an MBC on these, Marky may know more about them.
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Silicone turbo to intercooler pipes are nice, and would still be used if you chose to go the FMIC route. http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?39580-TT-TMIC-pipe-upgrade-revision-3
Hose 1 mod, boost loss during VOD is reduced by adding a restrictor pill into hose 1. Personally after driving with a parallel setup then going straight to a sequential setup with the hose 1 mod, I prefer it stock. Yes boost loss is more dramatic but my pants seat-o meter likes it more once the secondary starts boosting as well. http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40911-Inside-the-BBOD
Are you sure it's a vf28 and not a vf26?
Edit: And hose 10 mod is a gen 3 thing. 2nd gen's already have the bov line going straight from the manifold to bov/bpv.
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My RS-B sedan is running 4 pots with no issues. I also have a 96 GT-B running brembos all round with no issues. Most likely vf18/19 if they're still standard and it's manual. vf20/21 if it's auto. If the secondary DOES have a wastegate it's a vf14. VF26/31 could be considered "upgrades" if you can't find another vf18.
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Was going to try get nicer photos/background but ehh can't see that happening any time soon.
One with 3 2nd gens tho not anywhere near as tidy
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I was never pulled up/over in the 2+ years I owned my V7 STi. Same deal with my Legacy.
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Ok here's another brake related question, when changing rear brakes from single pots to 2 pot rear is it the hub only, backing plate only, or both that is replaced at the same time? On a BD5c to be specific.
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Could also be BG5.. Is it the 2nd gen or 3rd gen shape?
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Is there a part number or alternate belt I can grab off the shelf to delete air con? Mine's starting to sound like a set of gilmer pulleys (damnit)
Aren't they serparate belts? PS and alt is one then a/c on its own. I just cut my a/c belt on the EJ20R same situation your's can't be much different.
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One more dumb question for the weekend. Are there any R160 diffs that can be used with a V7 STi 6 speed, as well as subaru/brembo 2 pot rear callipers? Or, is it possible to use a 3.9 R160 diff out of say a V2 RA/STi RA and hubs+axles out of a v7 wrx?(apparently 4.44 for us and 3.9 USDM) Without needing adapters etc I'd rather not need a cert.
Edit: seem to have my answer already, cheers.
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Yep will be leaving it alone until it's sorted now just needed to see what VOD was like with a 6 speed.
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Cheers yeah I might reset once more just to be sure but it goes sweet took it for a "spirited drive" and didn't have any issues just CEL popping up on the way home. Must be the knock sensor after all.
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No don't think I can hear anything out of the ordinary, have since put about 50+L of 98 in the tank and idled/driven it a bit even in test mode still giving me code 22, very quickly losing faith in it just being bad fuel. Seems to hesitate sometimes between mid high 2k-mid 3k rpm in 5th and 6th somewhat similar to when my STi needed a coil replaced but worse. 96 GT-B (EJ20R) this one.
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Is stale fuel enough to chuck a knock sensor CEL or is it 100% the knock sensor?
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Purchased yet another 2nd gen Legacy.. Now to think on whether I throw the good bits into my good one or a gc8 body..
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"WRX type RA STi Version" according to http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/wrx.html
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So is this ECV set up mainly for primary spool?
Get some more thread visible to get it "right"?
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My money would be on a legit V2 STi RA as well without seeing the applied model code. Tho at that age would likely have the same applied model code as a WRX RA.
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Is there a way I can find what revision a legamacy is just from vin number? Looking at maybe another GTB but finding a few labelled as e-tune which have *most* of the rev-d bits but are still early revision - like they have a backlit dash or facelift lights but are still using the old AFM so can't reflash it
I know I'm looking for the BH5-X number - problem is carjam and motochek don't show the X
Failling that, has anyone tried logging with tactrix cable (or similar) of the older ECU's on here? If I can still log I could just mongrel things a bit on an earlier model with an S-AFC I guess
Chuck the chassis number through here http://www.japan-partner.com/check-manufacture-year.php
e.g for mine I would throw in BD5-031444 and will come up with BD5C48D.
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Nitto Invos and before that goodride sv-308s.
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Hose 11.
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WOF time again, one of the rear bulbs had finally crapped out completely, replaced that and took it in for yet another clean sheet wof.. 3 in a row now.
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Umm adjusted my clutch pedal one last time since it was still not going smoothly into 1st at lights, slave cylinder is now ****ed instead of slightly ****ed (that I was unaware of) would have been buggered since before I picked it up. All makes sense now. Think it got worse the last time I adjusted it thinking about it but it's well and truly in need of replacement now.
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*sigh* Some days I wish I still had it
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Finally got around to changing the knock sensor on the GT-B. Took me ages and was a hell of a lot worse than when I changed my V7 one. Took it for a quick drive only for another issue to rear its ugly head. Can't wait to get all the good bits off it and flick it off again.