mtbtimr
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Posts posted by mtbtimr
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Who's going to chrome this year?
Last year I met up with a few guys at PBMS and cruised to Hampton Downs..
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Given that the car is unlikely to see much track-thrashing, I'm going to risk using a high temp primer with a regular base coat. Will report back on build thread.
Does anyone know where I could get some of those black STI decals?
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I want to paint my gold brembo calipers fluro yellow like the ones from the late model STIs.
I've found high temp primer and clear, but no high temp fluro yellow...
My question is... can I use a regular base coat if it's protected from both directions by high temp primer and clear?
OrAm I better off getting them powder coated? And how much should I expect to pay for 4 calipers?
Thanks!
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I am running STI Genome suspension from a WRX in my Forester STI.
I am also running a Whiteline 22mm Forester rear sway bar.
I noticed that I've cracked one of the rear sway bar mounts (somewhat expected from the stiffer sway bar).
Looking into replacements for the mounts...
Should I go with WRX mounts or Forester mounts? i.e. KBR18-22 or KBR21-22?
Cheers,
Tim
Answered my own question with a bit more googling...
WRX mounts won't clear the spare wheel compartment.
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4 hours ago, Flat4 said:
Picked up the Forester from a full service from Subtech yesterday. Impressed with their attention to detail - from tightening the handbrake to replacing a couple of missing clips in the front bumper. They also noticed the WOF had just run out so took it through a WOF free of charge.
Also had them fit Ferodo DS2500 pads (from Race Brakes) and new rotors to the front and a Whiteline 22mm rear swaybar.
Brakes need a proper bedding in but so far so good. Swaybar has also made a noticeable difference as expected so I'm looking forward to taking it for a good blat. Happy days
Are you running stock end links with your 22mm bar?
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Looking to pick up a rear strut bar for my SG9 Forester.
1. Who has used one in an SG Forester before?2. What brand did you use?
3. Did you have to modify the internal panels to fit it?
4. How much of a difference did you feel?
Cheers -
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Need some front and rear end links for my 2004 SG9 Forester STI.
The rear lateral arms are the same as a WRX STI if I'm correct but the sway bar is Forester-specific.. So should I be looking for STI end links or Forester end links?
Is Whiteline generally a pretty safe bet? If I'm not going to be adjusting them, should I just get the stock ones?
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On 7/12/2018 at 10:07 AM, JGM said:
You still looking? You might have to settle for matte black...
Yep still looking.
Those have been on TM since I started looking lol. Maybe I could use that as bargaining...
Actually started thinking about doing some late model STI wheels instead to keep things stock, but all the ones I like are 5x114.3
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On 12/18/2017 at 9:56 PM, BeastGRB said:
They are now called Work Emotion D9'rs
Not quite the same, the D9rs have much more slender spokes. I prefer the look of the XD9s tbh. -
On 2/15/2015 at 11:05 AM, Guitar_Guy said:
Seems like this thread has been left out a bit recently... here's my toy with ideas of turning it into a white version of the above pic....
I'm aiming for a WRB version of the red one... How's yours coming along? Still got it?-
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8 minutes ago, Nachoooo said:
Light bars are a notoriously grey area. Perspectives go from all ranges for police and WOF inspectors... I failed my WOF with the light bar switched via high beam. To pass I just unplugged it. It is on a on/off/on switc either way. On whenever I want, off completely, and on via high beam.
Regardless of what your WOF inspector rules, be aware that you might get a fussy cop who doesn't like seeing you using it either... use at your own risk reallyYep, I'm going to print off a copy of the wording from the NZTA website to keep in the glove box.
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So currently, the light bar on my Forester is wired up with a Jaycar relay kit that connects to the battery with a simple switch in the cabin. I can turn the light bar on and off at any time (even when the car is off).
To comply with the rules, I want to wire it up so that the switch is still there, but the light bar will only come on when the switch is on and the high beams are on.
I've done a bit of investigation and probing with the multimeter and I know that the high beams are negatively switched.
Can someone please tell me how to change the wiring on the switch so I get what I'm aiming for?
Cheers
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47 minutes ago, gotasuby said:
Where are you located?
Central Auckland -
Bought the bits for a 2-way Deutsch DT connector from MSEL so I can make my light bar removable...
Awesome, quality product - highly recommend.
Has anyone had experience with crimping the terminals without the special (expensive) crimping tool?
I have a range of other crimping tools available.
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So I’ve been running BP 98 in my Forester since I bought it.
With the recent Auckland fuel tax, I’d like to know a bit more about the difference between Mobil 98 and BP 98...
Mobil seems to be cheaper on average, and they do the smiles card which gives 6c/L off plus 1.5 ‘smiles points’ for each litre (equivalent to about 3c/L) so about 9c/L off every day.
BP does 6c/L off every day with smartfuel, but regularly does 10c/L off.
What is the difference? Is it even worth thinking about?
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Hey have a look at page one of my build thread...
http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/51349-mtbtimrs-2004-forester-sti/
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52 minutes ago, newsuba said:
first one.
Yep.
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@Individualities Yep could make you one up - just let me know.
Obviously it wouldn't be quite the same fit and finish as a raceseng one - they use internal o-rings and grease galleries and have used trial and error to get the perfect slip fit.If you just want something nicer than stock though, I could make you one - it'll be stainless steel rather than aluminium as well.
I'm not sure how much it is to get a raceseng one in NZ but I'd say it'd be more than one by me.
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11 minutes ago, boon said:
What Tony said
The trick is in the front hubs, either replace the whole front end setup with V9 bits if you have some sort of need for new struts, or if you're lucky you may be able to swap the lower clevis on your struts (assuming they're adjusties) for the later model style one.
1Yea certainly sounds like a bigger job than it is on something like a Nissan.
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Thanks Tony, super helpful!
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