[EZ30 BP Legacy CEL (cam position)]

plugs at every sensor seemed clean as. Didnt go further into main loom at all

[EZ30 BP Legacy CEL (cam position)]

Ive just pulled the avcs solenoids out on both sides for inspection, they seem ok, and undone the banjo lines next to them, neither had any small filter in them

[EZ30 BP Legacy CEL (cam position)]

 Rosssub said:

First two sticky's in this section cover it.

Oh sweet, yeah I hade a read over them but they seemed pretty 4cyl turbo specific so i wasnt sure

[EZ30 BP Legacy CEL (cam position)]

Hi I posted a thread a while back in the legacy forum but problem is developing a bit further.

A month ago my CEL came on with al the other blinky lights, local garage plugged in scanner found fault and replaced cam position sensor bank 1.

It went well for about 300ks and then it started again. Now it chucks the CEL every other time, but it will miss without a CEL and sometimes stall at idle.

Put the scanner back on it. And the same fault has appeared.

Just wondering if anyone has encounted this so we can cut down some time fault finding. Genunine subaru sensor was used on the first change.

thanks

[Check engine/Traction Control EZ30 BP Legacy help]

Hey Cheers for the replies, got it scanned and replaced a cam position sensor. Was sweet for a day, then on the drive back from AKL airport yesterday it faulted once and I cant get it to do it again. Done 300ks since sensor.

[Check engine/Traction Control EZ30 BP Legacy help]

Nah mate, fully standard

[Check engine/Traction Control EZ30 BP Legacy help]

Hi,

Today when driving I noticed my CEL/Traction/Cruise light came on the dash and there was a bit of hesitation for around 10s and then the lights went off again.

I cruised home to get stuck into google but havnt been to get anything solid (without a OBD scanner untill a weekday)

Went for another drive to try fault find. It seems to all happen about 3500 (VVL/VVT?) then the lights will flash away and all the hesitions/limp mode come back in.

Any help very much appreciated.

Sidenote: months ago in some horrendous rain i noticed my Traction Control Off light came on the dash untill I turned the car on and off again. - suspected wheel sensor but done nothing about it.

Hope it gets my to the airport on thursday!

[Questions about BPE/Spec B/5EAT/Brakes]

Following this thread, let us know how you get on the that suspension knock

[Sub drone - not low enough]

Update just measured the box, got 14L of water in it, would be 15 if it was on the right angle which is a coincidence that this is also the recommended size for the sub.

[Sub drone - not low enough]

I notice the enclosure gets a bit of vibration so i'll try dampen the inside to see if i can stop the resonance

[Sub drone - not low enough]

Heres the box i fibreglassed. Yet to measure volume.

image hosting above 5 mb

[Sub drone - not low enough]

The specs for the sub recommend a .5cu (15L) sealed enclosure and a 1.5cu for a ported.

I would say my enclosure would be a fraction bigger then the sealed specs. But i will fill it water water and measure.

Its hard to make the enclose bigger without it taking a heap of space in the boot.

[Sub drone - not low enough]

The amp under the seat has a lpf

[Sub drone - not low enough]

Hi,

I have a 04 legacy wagon with the non mcintosh stereo. Kenwood I think.

So far I've put a anycarlink in it, line level convertor to a cheap kenwood amp under the seat and I've fibreglassed a sub box in the back left of the boot/hatch.

Sub is a fusion 10"

I know the equipment is very average in the past I've at focal, dd, rainbow gear but this is obv a budget setup.

Now the sub is real droney, and I'd like it to hit bass notes lower.

It sounded better in my previous car in a different enclosure. Should I calculate a port to use for this or do I need a bigger sub enclose, I'm unsure how big it is and i would need to pour water into it to measure.

Any tips to get lower bass notes and not so peaky?

Cheers

[BP Legacy suspension knock and door locks]

Would you just whip the arm off and do both of the bushes in it or how do you check which is buggered?

[BP Legacy suspension knock and door locks]

 sobanoodle said:

Check swaybar links.

I had some annoying dull knock at very low speeds which started after some rather spiritual driving on gravel. After checking/tightening all the bits I was nearly sure that the strut was shot but then we decided to do one more test emulating the loads on that corner - turned out one of the ball joints on the link had some play in it, enough to cause some knock. Replaced the culprit and surely enough no knocks whatsoever.

How did you try to emulate it, I jacked up the front and inspected bushes with suspension at full droop. Had the pry-bar in there trying to find some play anywhere! I might try removing the sway bar in the future and driving without it to see if that eliminates it.

As for Seith_31 hats of for getting the thing in behind the window track, with those cables and rods she's a right c u next tuesday

[BP Legacy suspension knock and door locks]

Oh dang, it does have bilsteins. Its only at a very low speeds, walking-running speeds. Are there bilstein shock inserts for the struts or what?

[BP Legacy suspension knock and door locks]

Hi, I recently bought a cheap legacy 3.0r wagon and I noticed a few things wrong when I was test driving it so now I am getting around to sorting them

1: Suspension knock from front left. Have visually checked control arm bushes and swaybar but nothing obvious. Whats the next step?

2: Following that door lock tutorial, are people able to remove the door latch (covered in white plastic) while leaving that window track in place? How is that done?

Its a nightmare, I got it out with difficulty to inspect the motor which needs replacing. What a headache to return into the door (have left plastic off latch until new little motor turns up)

Cheers for the help.