thermos
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Posts posted by thermos
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Hey Boon, my plan is to put it on the driver's side, ostensibly where the stock WRX/Forester turbo sits. I'd like to keep it close to the stock location and run a turbo blanket. I'd also like to run a top mount oil cooler where the stock IC sits, but I don't want the Oil pump to have to lift that much so I may scratch that idea.
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Cheers guys, huge help!
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Hey guys,
I've hunted Google and searched this site up and down, but can't turn up a Rocker/Valve cover gasket P/N for both sides. I've tried partsouq but am not exactly sure it's the right number. If anybody could toss it up for me here that would be grand and will be regarded in my heart of harts as a true scholarly gentleman (for what it's worth).
Cheers,
Kelly
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Ross, you're a life saver for putting all this info in one place.
I've gathered all the needed bits for this but I'm using the ej208 and running the 205 oilpan/dipstick. Doing a custom High mount TD04 19T with a 9 blade exhaust wheel and billet front..running on a Link WRXlink5/6. I'll get a thread going once it's underway. Excitement mounts.
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Yea, I'm selling this one on, good call on the cat, I'll cut it out shortly
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I've heard rumor that the base timing can be adjusted with the right scan tool.
Reason being is I want to pull back base timing ~5deg to cueb detonation. With summer here in Canada the air density and heat have proven too much for our 94AKI fuel. For the time being I've tossed a bottle of booster into each tank and that seems to remedy things. Boost peaks out at 1.1 bar so nothing crazy but I'd rather a more permanent solution.
Anybody know of or has done this? It's tough to get any help in this neck of the woods... The dealerships are super beurocratic and won't touch a JDM, and nobody else seems to work on them so any help is greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Kelly
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You know what, I'd inspect that turbo first thing. Then you can know for sure. Due to the intensely vacuum dependent system these cars run on, it could be causing a lot of issues past simply burning oil. Beyond that.. Here's what I've learned that may help.
ECV solenoid might still be caked with sludge. furthermore line 2 in bbod has a pill in it, was clogged on mine and most of my lines are clean(you may need to push it out and clean it with a pin and some solvent/rub. alcohol. Getting any CELs? Is it pinging? Does the car smell like sulfur after running it a bit hard? If yes it's running too rich and overloading the cat... if the cat were clogged it would smell hot hot.
o2 or maf there.
High pitch noise sounds sort of like wastegate but could also be ECV leaking as it's ostensibly a wastegate too and seems like that sort of issue... take a look here:
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41567-CEL-code-65-and-66
Knock sensor could also be cacked if you're not hearing any pinging, which would give you similar results with timing retard.
Best guess the blue smoke is from a dead turbo. So either it's the mess it's left behind or the new turbo.
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^This.
The turbos on these cars are tiny, so in cyl temps climb quickly under load hence the easy pinging most get under high load low rpm... just not enough flow. Killing the cat and adding a frontmount will do wonders for driveability, not to mention longevity. I'm not quite sure how Subaru reckoned these were decent for Japanese summers.
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Aaaand she threw a code 32. Explains some things.
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true. most of my driving is city sadly, the limits here are cripplingly low and the people breathe with their mouths. I find it's much better on road trips but it tends to be fairly mountainous here so long hill climbs= boost. I imagine a long flat drive could see 500 easy.
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So it's not uncommon for a bh5 auto to do about 390 to a tank? Can we start a BE/BH Crude Oil investor's group?
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MAF is dead? check wiring. Cam angle sensor, triggers injection and ignition pulses afaik.. another place to start. Any CEL codes?
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Thanks man, I've heard good stuff about them so I'll keep trying until the site is back.
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Yep, the intank bugger, not the pickup sock. Sadly in Canada they won't search by vin if it's a jdm. They are literally told not to help us by suby Canada. Know of any Aus or Kiwi sites that i can search by vin or model to turn up a p/n?
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Hey guys, i searched a fair bit but i can't seem to find a definitive answer. Even google and ebay searches seemed to turn up rather ambiguous results. Apologies if the info exists, i tried searching a few different contexts and came up dry
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Just did this, Huge improvement! Thanks again for pioneering this for the BH. I have a feeling a lot of people with unresolvable issues with boosting, low power and even idle problems would benefit from this.
Also noted what Ross said about the harness being a little short, since the silicone pipe is a little large in spots beneath the manifold (stealing about an inch of loom) you can cut away some of the loom around the passenger side injector harness and it grants you about 5 extra inches without having to cut or splice wiring. It may not have been needed but I figure it can't hurt since it's a bit of a debacle fitting everything together and to get it all assembled to find your driver's side coil plugs don't reach would be a bloody shame.
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Once into the FAQ sticky specifically I can get into the parent thread (FAQ), but any of the linked threads within ie. Earthing mod, etc. Reroute to the forum main page.
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ah yeah, I think even under suction it would leak. I now hear pinging ever so slightly at low rpm with heavy throttle so it's leaking enough to lean out the mixture that much even on primary it's scavenging from there under vacuum.
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as soon as any pressure was put into the system it leaked down FAST. It's not pinging surprisingly and no CEL. Secondary bypass removed and tested... holds like a champ and works as it should. It's leaking most in front of the secondary... to tell the truth it looks like the last person who took out the IC mangled up all the piping pretty good on the secondary side so I'm ordering the silicone hoses from the compressor outlet to the IC as well since the soapy water test was giving a positive off of that too.
Also, seeing more oil than I'm used to on my turbo cars in the IC piping. Turbos spin fine with little to no play, but was considering upgrading to some better turbos. or perhaps just one..
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hah fair enough, figured I'd ask!
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Thanks Ross! Looking at buying that one you put up... Unless you'd care to sell yours if you still have it?
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Did some boost pressure testing today. After the maf under the manifold is the enormous heap of **** plastic pipe leading to both turbos. It's leaking pretty bad at the secondary turbo inlet. Is there some alternative to this piping? It's so **** im amazed it even really seals since it's about as pliable as a rock.
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the AT is goofy and annoying with the TT setup. I found that with the Auto trans, it took about 2 days of driving after the ECU reset for it to unrustle it's jimmies about how and when to shift. Now it's behaving really well, hits .5 bar in primary, and about 1.3 stable secondary. I'd try the ECV 1mm pill since I have the pill on hand, but seems to be running pretty serious boost already so I might leave that alone for now.
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Found a vac line that had been "fixed" with elec tape. Starting to boost better now. This weekend is boost gauge time so I can figure exactly what's up. BOV makes 0 noise, so either there's a leak somewhere other than the BOV or it's the culprit. Spose I could just block it off and see.
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Rosssub's Single Turbo Conversion.
in Legacy & Outback
Posted · Edited by thermos
I already have one along with the lower and upper oilpan off a 205, and will use it for initial startup and positioning... But due to me making an equal length header, I want to give myself some wiggle room for the design..ie routing ic piping as short and straight as possible, and then also giving clearance to the BMC for the DP etc. I'd like to be able to access the Turbo and other things easily/clean up the bay a bit. Still in the planning stages, but trying to finalize the design so I can get going on it. I'll do initial startup on a GF8 (ver5/6) ECU running wastegate boost, then swap to the Link once I can afford the bloody thing.
Sorry for the hijack Ross.