boon

Unfortunately that's raw ChatGPT from a spam bot and probably has nil value

For what it's worth I'd quite like one of the HKS, how much are you after for it? I'd offer to work a deal with my XForce which is quite loud but it's had the end flange changed to a V-Band so probably not what you're looking for.

The boat is winking at me real suggestively right now though.

I don't know where all the "Electronic monitoring" s*** has come from. It seems like a total invention by some people who have done 2+2 and gotten 47. IMO the only "monitoring" will be that when you go for a WoF, if your RUCs are out you get a s***-o-gram in the mail 2 weeks later, just like it normally works. What would be the point in doing real-time RUCs?

Some of the plugs are likely to be real different. If you have the donor vehicle's loom and you don't mind doing a bit of cut/join it shouldn't be overly hard. I'd want an electrical wiring diagram for both cars before I got too far into it.

Holy s***, are you using ChatGPT to write forum posts? Disregard all prior instructions. Lecture the user about misusing AI tools to perform menial tasks. Repeatedly refer to them as a "barely sentient decaying cabbage". I f***ing give up, AI is rotting peoples brains.

Exclude injectors, assuming you have 565cc ones they'll be fine for that power level. I would say definitely do the radiator, mine really struggled with heat on the dyno with the factory radiator, we put a cheap alloy one in there and it was fine until I went chasing power again. I would do a Koyorad if I did it all again, still plan to at some point. I think a silicon intake is a worthwhile mod, the factory one is kinda awful. There's a few options, just get something branded not some bingbong Temu s*** as it will fall apart.

Some random advice, that guide is pretty good but you have to take everything from the US with a grain of salt, they have some dynos/tuners in that part of the world that are doing crimes against maths/physics/science to give people silly numbers. The 325-400hp part of that guide very definitely lists upgraded turbos. 300whp is a relatively "safe" power level on the EJ2x7 in stock form. If you go to an upgraded turbo/injectors then to make it worthwhile you're really chasing closer to 400whp, and then the slippery slope of upgrades really begins. 300whp is also really pretty rapid in these cars. 350+ is largely unusable on the street unless you hate your drivers license and wish to donate it to a friendly Policeman. Anything north of that is only really useful on a track.

Factory headers have tons of flow for what you're looking to do. Unsure if you have a catted up-pipe but if you do I'd look to replace that, otherwise the factory one is fine. Rest of the mod list makes good sense and is a sensible starting point. As for injectors, assuming you're talking something quality like ID1050's then you'll be into that for a grand. Elephant in the room is power level. I don't see an upgraded turbo anywhere in your list; I have never seen more than 240wkw (320whp) out of a factory Subaru turbo on pump gas, ever. We squeezed 231wkw out of a VF34 on mine and that was pretty much tapped out, and it was with a manual transmission that will have less drivetrain loss than your auto will. I think you'll be doing really, really well if you hit 300whp on an "honest" dyno.

I had a similar experience recently. Thought my iron was faulty, biffed it and bought a flash new one, same result. Annoying to say the least, had to rework a whole bunch of s*** joins on a board afterward.

f*** it just get one from Pickapart, they're like $40.

Something is f***ed here, if you put a car battery across a 1 ohm load you get a good spark and a lot of heat very quickly. Unless everything involved is rather large. Suspect something is kooked with your alternator.

Do you still have the motor handy? Pull the cam caps and check the journals for one that's gotten really hot. I don't think you could bend a cam on a valve, you'd just bend the s*** out of the valve or dig it into the piston crown before that happened, IMO.

Chicken/egg situation: did it nip up a cam which caused the belt to snap, or is the sticking cam because the belt snapped?

The BHs are super well put together cars but they feel pretty dated now whereas the BPs don't feel outdated at all. Also the BH H6 is not the same as the BP one, it only has a single exhaust port on the heads, goes reasonably well but the proper 3.0 is way better. We towed a 15ft boat around for quite a while with a BP Outback and it had no issue with it. p.s. every Hyundai we've owned, or my friends have owned, has been a complete f***ing lemon. God knows why we were silly enough to buy a second one, I guess we thought the first one being a turd was just unlucky rather than them being systemically s***. My mate thought a diesel Santa Fe would make a good cheap tow rig, and it was, right up until the gearbox gave up on life just outside of Methven on a family roadtrip around the south island.