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boon

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boon last won the day on July 12

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  1. I had Prova equal lengths on mine. Good header with a stock turbo, honestly I thought they sounded decent too. Had a tendency to crack once I went to a big turbo. Gains were, as described, likely minimal on paper but the car felt nice to drive. I've gone to Legacy Twin Scrolls + up-pipe on the latest attempt at making the car better, had to change sump, dipstick and dipstick guide tube, and the pickup.
  2. The best out there is the AVO one. Deletes the little elbow that goes the airbox as well. It has ports on it for every single connection though so if you're deleting stuff it may not be useful. Every "Samco" one I've seen has been a fake pile of s***, be careful if you go that way. If you just go pipe... have someone weld one up for you. Keep in mind it has to do a little shimmy back to the left (looking at the motor from the front of the car) to line up.
  3. There's about 2 on the market that aren't pieces of complete s***. The non-brand ones are utter garbage and will collapse if you pull too much vacuum through them.
  4. Everything up to November '00 uses the snap-ring setup. I'm not 100% sure about seals on either side of the bearing as there are no less than 3 seal-looking things on the parts diagram.
  5. Lugging matters if you do it for like.... kilometres.... every day. Not once, up a driveway. It would just stall. There's not even enough force to make the engine keep going around, let along damage anything.
  6. From talking to some people who spend too much time around dyno bays, often the no-name stuff is no better than stock. s****y fin density in the cores, or s***house welding and poor fit/finish let them down badly. It's not a cheap car - my 2c is if you're going to do it, save up the pennies and get a PW.
  7. 0.5 bar is wastegate pressure if I remember right, so either it's plumbed wrong (possibly a restrictor pill missing), or there's a faulty solenoid, or it's in limp mode.
  8. Have you already got spacers? After a decent drive mine would be too hot to comfortably touch.
  9. Yep, did it ages ago, can't say if it makes much difference unless you also have phenolic spaces because your manifold just acts as a giant heatsink for the heads. Can't remember exactly what was required, I think I just used a cheap plastic irrigation joiner from Bunnings?
  10. Not sure really. I went to an obnoxiously loud 3" (not a straight pipe mind you, it has a muffler and resonator) and it made more power again, but we changed a couple of other things. Would it have made >230kw with the old exhaust and those things changed? Not sure. What I'm getting at is that a smaller (or at least, constricted design) exhaust is definitely a significant restriction at those power levels, whereas a freeflowing 3" didn't seem to be. Nope, no difference. Make sure the loom is long enough. On a V7 the O2 sensor should be at the bottom, if it's at the top you prob
  11. Yes, exactly that, literally without removing the car from the dyno. Ran the car up and it made like... 236 or something, tuner was like "I suspect your exhaust", unbolted it at the mid-pipe and did a pull and it made 250-something.
  12. Smoke coming from the turbo itself, wut? Sealant on the compressor plate isn't going to make it smoke. 1.5mm is on the larger side for a ball bearing turbo, I believe the standard ones are 1mm? But also unlikely to actually be an issue. Did you re-use the copper washers on the oil and coolant feed banjos, and if so, did you re-anneal them?
  13. I'm gonna be a pest and say it's probably too restrictive for 250wkw, from memory those Genomes aren't big mufflers, like.... 2.25" or something. I had a 2.5" Zerosports on mine and it became a limitation over about 230wkw.
  14. Tried a whole lot of them, the no-name stuff is a waste of time, goes to s*** inside 12 months, flakes to bits and falls off. The best of what I've tried is the Lava Rock stuff from Pro Wholesale, goes on nice, doesn't make you itch quite as much as all the straight fibreglass ones, and seems to have lasted at least somewhat well. But the true best is OEM heatshields.
  15. Your engine doesn't really care if the turbo is a hairdryer. As long as it's not knocking, power is power is power. The air gets really really hot as soon as the spark plug goes off anyway. I had 231kw from a VF34 for years, no problems, and that was with a topmount, on a stock V7 longblock. I don't know if I fully understand your goals... you only want less than 250wkw, and you want it to be... deliberately laggy... so it doesn't feel like a big lazy V8? Sounds like a TD06 is the turbo for you, ancient pieces of s*** that they are. There doesn't seem to be
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