MercuryFree
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Posts posted by MercuryFree
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The fronts were rusty as
I wouldn't trust the right front corner after the hit it's taken there either.The dash is ****ed because the airbag has come out through it. And it's also warped to **** due to the cabin deforming.
It's pretty f*cked, are we sure we were looking at the same car?
Oh yeah I just took the rears not the fronts, as you said the front is MUNTED! We will be talking about the same car I just probably wasn't paying much attention to the dashboard.
I was crawling around the rear to undo the tophat nuts etc and the rear seat and boot area carpet/trim/seats etc all looked OK and I thought the front seats did too, but I may have not been paying sufficient notice...
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Is BP interior any better then BH? Can I mongrelise **** to fit?
It's certainly 'nicer'. Wouldn't be surprised if the front seats / rails etc could be moved straight across as I've done (and seen others do) all kinds of seat swaps across models and versions in Subaru land. I think some of them have side airbags in the seats which might make a difference, not sure if this particular car does as I wasn't paying that much attention to them.
Dunno about the rears but given it's a wagon and the rear suspension setup (shock mounting points etc) is basically the same as BH so I wouldn't be entirely surprised.
Dashboard etc is different so probably doesn't fit?
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I grabbed the bilsteins
. The interior is in pretty good nick as is all the remaining rear suspension so in the off chance anyone has a BP that needs new boot carpet or something you might be in luck! Still quite a lot left on it as of Saturday. -
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I have one of these https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/pods/ati-clust-25ej-5-ati-triple-meter-center-dash-pod
It fits well using the factory clock clip locations, quality is about 90-95% of factory - a couple of the edges on the base aren't 100% smooth.
Not recessed however.
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Try ebay. When i had a bmw i got a set off there for less than $20. Presume they have subaru too. Won't be quite as high quality but likely to be significantly cheaper!
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Should be there
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If it\'s genuine it should just bolt up. The replica ones don\'t have the \'studs\' coming out of them so they require a bit more effort to install
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Whoever is coming tonight, can you let Charlie know how to fix my anti-break light issue that appears on the dash.. It happened about two weeks ago and I\'ve put break fluid in and the light has come back on on.
It\'s generally the relay on the abs unit getting corroded or just old, can take it out and clean up the terminals but if that doesn\'t work can replace it with a second hand one from pick a part easily enough.
Alternatively, you may have a faulty abs sensor or wiring to it - I believe you can check the codes for these
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Should hopefully make it
txt me address if you don\'t mind grahame -
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I got me one of these sets.. hardly ever use it but it\'s good to have, just in case.
I mainly got it for the sockets, as I have also got a 3/4" Powerbuilt breaker bar as well
Neat, cheers
.Yeah I\'m very impressed with my Bahco set, especially considering it\'s priced for normal humans not workshops
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I run a 23mm rear and standard V7 STI front... feels nicely balanced with coilovers.
Personally I wouldn\'t upgrade the front swaybar unless you\'re gonna track it most furiously.
Yeah I\'ve upgraded my rear on my v7 sti as well and wouldn\'t upgrade the front without upgrading the rear some more, the balance feels \'just right\' at this point
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bad to use half inch on hub nuts the old man reckons but a complete Female anatomy part to buy a bigger socket set just for hub nuts that power built I thought would be under warranty
I was under the impression that the warranty wouldn\'t cover jumping up and down on it with a bar slid over it ;D. You can buy 3/4" sockets individually so that\'s not a problem given there\'s only 1 or 2 sizes that hub nuts are generally found in. I wouldn\'t bother on a ~$300 3/4" socket set which probably wouldn\'t even come with a bar
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caspros']
[quote name='evowrx said:
Just buy a quality one. Ive got a 1/2" SP 500mm ratchet that I run a 4" pipe on. Warrantied once but it took a LOT to break and when it did it was the latch inside that broke not the head. Lifetime warranty is always good too.
What are you breaking them on, hub nuts?
/quote]
Yeah hub nuts, damned things.
After breaking three 1/2" I had to borrow a 3/4" and even then needed to extend it to break the hub. I think I\'ve still got it if you want to borrow.
Nah don\'t need one presently - turns out my bahco 1/2" drive 10" extension bar with a t-slide head and a bar over it works quite well - it\'s just not as easy to use.
But thanks for the offer
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Just buy a quality one. Ive got a 1/2" SP 500mm ratchet that I run a 4" pipe on. Warrantied once but it took a LOT to break and when it did it was the latch inside that broke not the head. Lifetime warranty is always good too.
What are you breaking them on, hub nuts?
Yeah hub nuts, damned things.
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So having broken my second 1/2" drive breaker bar :
, I\'d like to upgrade to prevent this happening again.First one was a supercheap generic one which I bent open the end of, second one was a powerbuilt one that I sheared one side of the head away from the bar, sigh. The powerbuilt one lasted about 2 years longer than the supercheap one as you\'d expect but I\'d like to not have to replace the damned things in the first place.
What is theoretically my best bet of my two obvious options:
- Another 1/2" breaker bar but longer (more leverage)
- A 3/4" breaker bar of normal length (stronger)
Thanks
- Another 1/2" breaker bar but longer (more leverage)
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Can\'t find it in the Regulations anywhere, amusingly (or I\'m blind)
http://nzta.thomsonreuters.co.nz/DLEG-NZL-LTSA-T.LTR-32013.pdf
Unless this counts as the \'entire assembly\' being \'securely fastened\' and the NZTA making a determination that alloy wheel nuts do not \'securely fasten\'
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http://www.dirtyolbc.co.nz/community/topic/619-dcvrs-rebuild/page__st__820
Hopefully that works, some timely discussion on the topic
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If this link works it\'ll give you a good idea of the range available for that price:
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GC8E2DD']
Tbh if your filter is getting so full of bad stuff in 5,000km\'s that it stops working properly, you may have bigger issues
My bigger issue is that my race car is my daily driver.
[quote name='GC8E2DD said:
Motor still goes.
/quote]
=P
Was referring to people stressing over which filter to use as opposed to your use case
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Tbh if your filter is getting so full of bad stuff in 5,000km\'s that it stops working properly, you may have bigger issues
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Passed 5th WOF in a row, can we get a hurry on with the yearly wof\'s!
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Yeah gasket goo is normal
I wouldn't trust the right front corner after the hit it's taken there either.
. The interior is in pretty good nick as is all the remaining rear suspension so in the off chance anyone has a BP that needs new boot carpet or something you might be in luck! Still quite a lot left on it as of Saturday.-
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Hydraulic Jack and axle stands advice required
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
I've had the super cheap auto 2.5 ton jack for over 4 years I believe and it's still going strong. They do sales on jacks quite often so you can get a good discount if buying then.
The SCA jacks are not particularly low profile though so if you are lowering your vehicle you may run into clearance issues.
Axle stands as mentioned are all pretty similar, I've got powerbuilt ones and they've been fine for years also.